Motor capacitor seems to be burnt, motor does not run
170 K model, a black wire exits the motor runs through a capacitor I think, then back into motor/pump. The device says CBB20, 370 VAC, 50/60 Hz and Max Temp 90c. One end of the capacitor looks to be melted with gray colored bubbles. Why would this happen and do I just replace it with a new one?
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To eliminate the T-stat from the puzzle, just short the T-stat's two wires together. If it works then it's the T-stat. To check the motor and capacitor, remove the power. Find the common winding of the motor and place one lead of the meter on it (make sure the meter is set to ohms) RX1, place the other lead on the start winding (should be a high resistance), then move it from star to run winding (should be a lower resistance), then measure from start to run and they should add up to basically the same reading as common to run +start. Exception of the common- any Non reading between start and run is a open (broken) winding. Internal overloads are placed in the common winding and are thermal (open because of heat caused by a short), they will reset when they cool down. Also check each winding to ground (the metal housing of the motor), and this should be a very high reading indicating no circuit to ground. The capacitor can be checked by first shorting the terminals together, disconnect an attached wire and placing the leads on the terminals with the meter set at R X 10000 and the meter should rise (numbers) momentarily as the capacitor charges then decrease as it discharges = good capacitor
If you're troubleshooting HVAC electrical problems
230 volt single phase ac The Common wire or circuit on an A/C or heat pump never has a run capacitor in that line. The Run wire always has the run capacitor in that line or circuit.
115 volt ac The Run or Hot wire has the run capacitor and the neutral wire does not.
So if you are tracing wires out in a circuit, if there's a run capacitor, it's the Run wire or Run circuit. The Start wire always goes to the opposite side of the run capacitor than the Run wire and it is the only wire on that side of the capacitor. The Run wire goes to the run capacitor, then goes to contactor, compressor, start capacitor or fan, so there's usually two wires on the Run side of the capacitor.
what makes you think there a problem with the blower, Most newer blowers have multi-speeds so be careful to only have two wires hooked up at a time , always have the ground hooked up, usually the white wire and then try black for high speed, make sure fan is secure it may shift. to check low speed connect only the red wire to power and the white wire to gound . depending on motor, other colors would be medium and medium high is so equipped. if motor gets hot after a while check for a capacitor, they have a tendency to get weak, replace with exact same capacitor. let me know why you suspect the blower.
Hi, W/D here. Make the necessary sketches, showing what color wire goes to which terminal (trust me on this, it's a really good idea). I do it whenever two or more wires are involved, and I've been known to also lable terminals with the wire color with a "Sharpie". Remove the motor and start capacitor. Take both with you to your local appliance parts supply house. They will match you up with a similar motor, and match the capacitor to the new motor. Getting the exact motor you described isn't important. Getting a good quality replacement motor with your horsepower rating, shaft size and matched capacitor is. They'll have it, and the cost will be less than running one down. I installed a replacement in a furnace last week, with the motor, capacitor and a pack of crimp-on terminals (I ran out!) costing about $109.00. Your's may be less at 1/6 hp. The one I installed was 1/3 hp, replaced a GE, and works fine. Best regards, --W/D--
I think you have the motor wired wrong. If you have two brown wires they are the only wires that go on the capacitor. Black wire will be used for cool and red for heating and the white wire goes to neutral.
Have you noticed what the outdoor temperature is when this unit is tripping the breaker? Does it seem to be at a higher outdoor temperature or at all outdoor temperatures day and night?
Did they check the run capacitor to see if it's good and the proper microfarads?
Did they check to see if the breaker trips when it's starting up or after it has been running awhile.
If it's tripping on start up then it's possible the next step is the compressor replacement.
If it's tripping after running awhile then it could be dirty indoor coil or filters,blower not running at full speed,low voltage, loose wire connection, points burnt on contactor and even a weak run capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the fan blade to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.