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if its a garden tractor then you will first need to remove the mowing deck , this is easy if you have something to run front wheels up on to allow you room to pull deck out the side ,set deck height all the way down, save the drive belt . save the deck pins . locate the front chassis mounting arms and drive up to blower allow rear mounting arms to go between the two front wheels till the back of blower meets the front of chassis mounting arms (tight fit) install pins at all four points of contact , install belt to blower and front pto of machine (install any guards for belt) then raise blower from ground with deck height adjustment lever (it might feel heavier) test it to prove good contact your done
if its a three point (this is the reason I own one know) you back up to blower lower the mounting arms , engage the quick pins , install the drive shaft between the blower and machine with a quick spring snap , connect top link to tractor get back in seat and start machine raise three point an go !!
Service kit available for that mess of gears in the motor box(needle bearings inside the gear seize up), there is also a shear or sacrificial adapter mounted to the impeller input shaft Parts and Diagrams for MTD 31AS63EF729 2011 check around part # 7 and 15 top right hand corner. hope this helps. if this didnt help check out this web site
If your snow blower is a two stage, you can tilt unit up by handles and carefully rest unit on front auger housing. (Most units you can do this, but be careful, not all do). Then, remove bolts that hold bottom plate on snow blower, and remove bottom plate. If you follow the shift linkage down from handle to where it enters inside the unit, you will soon see how it works. Most types have the gear shifter hooked up to an apparatus that moves a rubber friction disc along a shaft, further towards the center for lower gears and vice versa. My guess is that you need to lubricate the shaft that this rubber disc slides along. Try some white lithium grease and have someone carefully move shifter throughout gear range. Be careful to not get grease on round friction plate below, this is where the rubber friction disc mates up to when drive is engaged(you don't want it slipping). Try this and let me know if you have questions. If you post actual make, model and serial# I can post pics if you like. Good luck and happy wrenching!
If the blower (impeller) turns and the auger doesn't there is a 90% chance you broke the shear bolts that protect the auger gear box.
Look at your auger and you will find the bolts shown at the arrows in this picture are missing. Some snowthrowers will have two bolts and others like the new Craftsman will have four. You can get new ones at your local mower repair shop, your local Sears mall store, or online at sears.com. Use shear pins or shear bolts not regular bolts. The shear bolts are designed to break off so you don't tear out the front gear box. Feel free to ask any other questions. Don't forget to rate this answer!
You are not getting fuel to the carb take it off and give it a good cleaning, paying attention to the small orifices. Many times on older units the float bowl screw on the carb has an orifice that is always the culprit give it a try . Good Luck
Sounds like carb. may need adjusting. Take the heat box off to expose carb., there should be 2 adjustment screws- 1 on the bottom of the bowl and 1 on the side of the carb just above the edge of the bowl ( depending how the carb sets off the engine - if the carb comes straight out it will be on the side facing towards the front of the snow blower or if it goes towards the handles then standing other side of the snow blower the screw will be facing you), turn both screws in til they just bottom out the turn them out 1 1/4 turns out then start the machine. While the machine is running at low idle turn the screw on the side of the carb. in (clockwise) a little at a time listening for the engine to start to rev up and then start to rev down, bog or studder then turn back slightly to bring idle back up. Once the idle is up then the screw on the very top of the carb. turn that out to lower idle to a normal idle. Repeat those adjustments till you cant get the idle to go up anymore. Now for the screw on the bottom of the bowl- move the throttle up to max and turn the screw in till you hear it rev up higher and starts to bog or sputter then turn it back slightly to bring the high rev to a smooth rev. That should take care of it. If it does not solve it then the carb may need cleaning then the adjustments done again. If you need more help on this please feel free to ask. Sometimes you have to do process of elimination and you start with the easiest first. Also the adjustments should help with the carbon build up on the plug.
I had the same problem with my 5HP Dual stage (C950-520240) Canadian model and found that the arm connected to the traction cable (part #85449 "Shaft Traction Clutch") which forces the friction disk up to the rubber friction wheel had a cracked weld and had bent, preventing positive contact with the rubber friction wheel. The drive wheels would turn if you lifted the back of the machine off the ground, but would not work if under load. First I replaced the belt and rubber friction wheel, but no go. I had to basically disassemble the whole drive assembly to find the problem, very frustrating because you could not see the crack in the arm from head on. I had the cracked and bent arm straightened and welded, all is OK now.