Question about Kenwood VR-407 Receiver

2 Answers

Remote problem My remote control works intermittently. It's a random problem. It doesn't matter which remote I use, I get the same problem. I obviously then have to get up and control it manually. Any suggestions to the problem. Thanks...

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  • Kris Madley Apr 08, 2007

    Thanks for the response. Where can I purchase this part & I'm assuming it's in the receiver not the remote?

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2 Answers

I just started having the same issue. I reset the receiver to factory defaults by unplugging the unit, pressing and holding the power button, and plugging it back in. Remote works fine now. Strange, but it works.

Posted on Apr 29, 2007

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  • Master
  • 3,130 Answers

It sounds like an intermittant Infared sensor problem or there is an intermittant solder connection between the sensor and the controler chip. Good Luck

Posted on Apr 08, 2007

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1 Answer

My original RM-C1502-1C remote [gradually] stopped working. Bought a new one. This worked perfectly for 1 day then stopped working except randomly/intermittently.


Check the remote control for its infra-red emission. Check it with fresh batteries. Check by pressing each button on it at a time; and see whether all of it generates infrared signal while pressing. If it is found OK, check and replace the infrared sensor inside the TV. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. It has details about how to check a remote control; by one among the post. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ If the remote control is found OK; check and replace the infra-red sensor inside the TV. Contact any service technician.

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Cant change remote code


Don't forget you have to change the codes in BOTH the receiver & transmitter.

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I have a Sony KDF-55WF655. I think the IR sensor is going bad. My remote occasionally stops working for no reason. I have tried numerous different remotes, but I get the same problem no matter which...


Hi:
The IR receiver inside the television is becoming intermittent and needs to be replaced. You might also check the connections on the receiver small circuit board for cold or loose solder joints.

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I need a replacement 27MHz remote control for a Playskool Tonka Bounce Back Racer model #09995. This model has been discontinued. Would another 27MHz remote, with forward & reverse control features...


Yes! The FastLane brand works. I thought my bounce back was a loss because the remote doesn't work until my older daughter played with her remote control car in the same room. The Tonka Bounce Back responded very well to the FastLane remote. And fortunately, FastLane is pretty inexpensive. Good Luck!

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It runs 5 to 10 minutes, then it stops. When I press the remote control boton, it works again for 5 to 10 minutes and then it stops. So I need to repress the remote control again to make it starts.


I guess you are having a problem. That model dehumidifier doesn't have a remote control. As a matter of fact, I'm not aware of any model dehumidifier that has a remote control. A remote would be useless. Now, some portable air conditioners have remote controls. Is that what you have? A portable A/C unit? Please advise. Thanks.

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2 Answers

Random Protection mode.


Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Clipping means you have exceeded capacity. .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. random-protection-mode-lv2kkrmxrai4iihdvw4m3np2-1-0.jpg

Jun 01, 2009 | Nitro BMW-482 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Amp clickin in and out


As long as there is power to the Remote terminal, the amp is on.
If the rest of the system is off, the amp probably won't suffer, but why take a chance. Also, it will drain your battery overnight.

Put a switch in there somewhere. Make sure you can cut the power.

Great job on the click fix.
This does change my view of your original problem though.
Your description covered every symptom of power starvation.

The Remote is the amps 'On' switch.
Put +12v to the Remote, the amp turns on.
It's how the head communicates with the amp.

If the head units Remote Out was experiencing either an intermittant connection to the amp (loose wire, intermittant short) or power fluxuations of it's own, that would produce symptoms similar to power starvation (clicking off, coming right back on). Only it would be random.

Your Bass vs. Volume observations would also have been random. They weren't. You were able to reproduce the problem at will.

You probably have a multimeter handy.

Since running a hot lead to the remote terminal on your amp stopped the constant 'restarting', the next step is checking the Remote wire (condition and voltage) going from the head to the amp.

Start at the amp. Connect the negative lead to a ground. Connect the positive lead to the remote wire coming from the head unit. I assume you disconnected it from the amp. It shouldn't matter.

When the head is on, it should be +12v.

With the meter still connected, slowly turn up the bass.
Then the volume. The voltage should remain constant no matter what.

This has been mostly FYI.
Rule #1: If it ain't broke, don't fixit.

Feel free to contact me with any other questions, problems or just to show off.

Great job
Mike

Jul 12, 2008 | Rockford Fosgate P3001 Car Audio Amplifier

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