Question about Oster 6327 4-Slice Toaster
Hi. I have a toaster that just stopped working. when I try to engage the toaster lever it won't stay down. I am a bit handy but I don't know so much about circuit boards and such. I took the bottom off and cleaned it out and plugged it in. It sparked a bit then began to work. It did one round of toast and now it doesn't work. It isn't that old and I hate to throw it out. I have had toasters that have lasted for decades.
Thanks for any help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Mine is not working either. I can drop out the bottom and see the circuit board but have no idea what to do next. Mine no longer sensors the toasting time and I burn everything now...
Posted on Jan 28, 2008
SOURCE: Oster Toaster
My Oster Toaster stopped popping up after a couple of years as well - the lever just stays down until you unplug it or the toast catches on fire.
R3 was burned and replaced per the info on these discussions to no effect.
So I mapped out a rough schematic from the board and found some interesting things. Oster seems to be directly rectifying the line voltage (dangerous but cheap) through D1-D4 into 5V through DZ4 and 32V through DZ1.
These voltages seem to be across R3, which means it has 27V on 1K or about 0.73W on it continuously! Not only is this a waste of power, but it will always burn a 1/2W resistor. I would recommend replacing it with a 1W or larger and setting it up off the board to dissipate the heat into the air.
Then when toasting, the NPN transistor Q2 pulls to GND one side of the coil that holds the lever down. R3 is used as a series current limit for the 32V supply to the other side of the coil (so it has 32V or over 1W on it when toasting).
My problem with the toast not popping up was related to Q2 being blown. I don't remember the original number since I cut it out, but they seemed to have used an audio transistor with a Vce of 20V and Ic of 20mA. No wonder it blew with 32V and 32mA on it - bad design from the start.
I replaced Q2 with a cheap, commonly available 2N2222 - it has the same pinout and is good for 1A and 50V. It's been working great for months, but sadly still burning almost 1W continuously or over 6KWh per year.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
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