How to make crown molding with a jet 13" planer /molder
What size board do I use to start with when making crown molding and what side is done first? The bevel on the back or the face?
I have been searching the internet for hours for information on how to use a molder for making trim and all I can find is how to cut it and install it.
Thanks for your help!
Re: How to make crown molding with a jet 13" planer...
You may want to go to the Forum at OWW (Old WoodWorkers.com). What your attempting to do requires several Passes. I usually Rough out BOTH Face & Bevel, then make 2 more cuts each, to get to the Finished dimensions. I usually start with a Face Cut 1st, leaving some Flats for Square then do the Bevel Cuts to Desired dimension, then back to the Face, & take it down to where the Finished product is where I want it.
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The problem you are describing is called "snipe" and it can be caused by alot of different things. Even the best woodworkers have to fight this problem.
- you did the right thing by making sure that the matrial is supported, but if the oppisite side of the board is'nt true it will carry over onto the face. The only way to "true" a board is to use a jointer.
-when jointing a board you only want to do one side(face or back) and one edge,then it is ready for the planner.
-Now for solutions other than jointing-
1) Make sure that the infeed table and bed plate are clean, and wax or lube so that the board moves freely.
2) Try taking a lighter cut.
3) try a different piece of wood to see if it is only affecting that material (wood that is bowed is more likely to snipe) If it is bowed try feeding the material with the bow down..
4) make sure material is supported
Also your machine may have a bedplate adjustment to help with snipe you will have to look at the manual to find out.
If you take a close look at your machine you will notice that the length of the snipe is also the distance from your rollers to your knives, This means that the board is not laying flat and is being pushed up into the head until it can be supported by the next feed roll.
1) I don't make the final cuts on my boards until after planing.
2) I discovered why the planer does this. I don't have a planer table. I use the two metal stands that came with the planer, and they don't really hold the board flat & steady like a planer table would. The planer has 2 rollers >>> one roller is on the feed-end and one roller is on the finished-end. When the end of the board goes past the feed-end roller, it is no longer held flat by two rollers. The weight of the board causes the board to tip up into the planer blade on the last 3 inches. So sometimes I just hold up the end of the board as it finishes ... but it still takes a nip out of the board now and then.
Up-vote if the information helped you. Thanks for the feedback.
I think you are talking about what is commonly called "snipe". This is an inherent problem with all planers, but especially with heavier cuts. You can take lighter cuts, or you can start with a board longer than your intended finish length. You can also put the board you are planing on top of a longer board, then feeding them through together.
You need to remove the right side cover, indicut knob, crank, and cutterlock knob. Remove the top cap (4 screws) crank the motor asssembly to the top exposing two hidden screws in side wall, remove those and the two at the top and remove sidewall. . Tension adjustemnt screw is right near the motor pulley. Loosen it and push motor inward while sliding belt over pulleys. It is a little tough getting the belt in between the pulley and main carriage. If you attempt to put the belt on one pulley at a time, you are working a diagonal, which is longer that the inline dimension. Apply a drop of liquid dish detergent to each pulley for lubrication. Start the edge of the belt onto both pulleys; making sure the splines & grooves are aligned on both pulleys. Slowly work the belt on, 32nd of an inch at a time one pulley, then the other. Wash the soap off when you are done'
i found on some jointer/planers that this problem, is the way its designed. you can adjust the two feeds close but not close enough. what your supposed to do is push the wood thru one side with pressure on top and side(right hand), then when it touches blade slowly but steadily switch pressure part on the outfeed side. when you think anout it you are cutting an L shaped notch(until the end) so you dont want the side to be exactly parallel. table top jointers are tricky to use.
A jointer has 2 uses. 1. it is used to make the edges of boards straight. If you look down the edge of any board, you will see that they are not straight. This is called a crown. by feeding the board threw the jointer, you will take the high ends down to make the board straight. This is necessary, excuse the spelling, for glue ups.
2. It is also used to flatten out a board. Same as the edge, the face could have a cup. By sending the face through the machine, this will make the board flat. Then you send it through the thickness planer to make the board symetrically even.
You can use the jointer to make rabbets also, but there are other machine that will do the job better and faster, such as a router or a table saw, with or with out a dado blade.
If I had to pick, I would get the planer first. That way you can at least get your lumber pretty darn close to flat and parallel. Furthermore you can resize your lumber when necessary. But that’s just my opinion.