Question about Samsung RS267LBBP 26.1 Cu. Ft. Side by Side Refrigerator with Twin Cooling System & CoolSelect Zone

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Front panel display not lit after power outage.

I have a Samsung RS267LBBP side by side refrigerator. It's just over a year old. A couple of days ago, the power went out in the house for approximately 5 seconds. Once the power came back on, the front panel only has a single segment of the large numbers on the right blinking. Is there a way to reset the panel?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


SOURCE: Samsung RS2533SW freezer not cooling problem

mine did the same thing. It was the mother board.

and guess what? they don't sell that motherboard anymore.

I will never buy Samsung again!

Posted on Dec 15, 2007

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SOURCE: Samsung fridge RS2545SH every 7 days freezes fridge coil.

Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.

Posted on Aug 13, 2008

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SOURCE: Samsung side-by-side refrigerator

I'm having the same issue. I took apart the refrig. compartment and deiced the evaporator (was a big block of ice). The frig works until it ices up again. I've tested the current in all the sensors and the heater. All get current through, so now I'm going to test the PBA main according to the service manual instructions. I have no electrical experience, but was able to figure out how to test all those parts with an ohm meter. My guess is that I'll have to buy a new PBA main circuit board. Some advice, shop around because I've found $72 all the way up to $198 for the same part.
I first hired a repair man, he acted like he knew the problem, but after checking his work (and paying him) I found that he was completely wrong (he said the freezer fan was not pushing air to the frig. - this is a twin cooling system and the freezer fan does not effect the frig. side.) Now I'm doing it myself cause I can't find another repair man that works on Samsung. I'll post my results after the fix.

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

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SOURCE: Samsung side-by-side refrigerator

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} A solution to refrigerator defrost cycle not working, causing frig to not cool properly (also for freezer not cooling and water dispenser and ice maker not working).

Here are my observations and solutions after 6 weeks of problems with my Samsung RS2533sw side by side refrigerator/freezer.

First problem was the refrigerator defrost cycle was not working. I first called a local technician to solve the problem. Big mistake, he didn’t know what he was talking about and it cost $60 for nothing. After calling around and not finding anyone else who would service my refrigerator, I worked on it myself. I finally diagnosed that the PCB (or PBA) main computer board had gone bad. All other refrigerator defrost parts tested ok with an ohm meter. Unplugging the refrigerator to ‘reset’ it for any length of time did not solve the problem. So I ordered a new PCB main from for $87 + SSH (part number DA41-00134A or D or F – don’t worry about the last letter, they are all the same part). The new part solved the problem.

One note about ordering parts, I choose, they were the second lowest price. They also have very good customer service, at least when I’ve dealt with them. They will send a replacement part if the part they sent you fails within 30 days (only once on electrical parts though). gets very bad reviews and for just $6 less than Sears, I wouldn’t risk the agony of poor customer service. is pricey, $150. was $20 more than Sears. All these stores are online because I could not find any stores that carry Samsung parts and it is even harder to find a repairman willing to work on Samsung refrigerators, I live in Dallas where there are 6 million people in the metro area and only 2 service men are registered with Samsung as being qualified.

I found out something very interesting before installing the new PCB main. In order to know if I could do it myself, I took apart the back compartment and took out the existing PCB main. I then reconnected it and put it all back together so at least I’d have a working freezer. I then ordered the new part. In the mean time between getting the new part and having disconnected the original main circuit board that interesting thing happened. I came out a couple of days later and found a pool of water on the floor in front of the frig. The original circuit board was activating the defrost cycle in the refrigerator and had melted a huge block of ice, now water on my floor!!! I had already ordered the part and couldn’t cancel it, so I kept the part and installed it anyways, rather than pay more postage just to get the cost of the part refunded.

So if you think you have a bad circuit board and unplugging the frig to ‘reset’ it doesn’t work, you might just want to try disconnecting all the leads to the circuit board and just stick it back together and see if that actually ‘resets’ the unit. Just the other day the freezer side completely shut down (freezer stopped cooling, water dispenser and ice maker quit). I disconnected the circuit board completely again (all 8 connections) and that fixed it. Now everything works as it should (note it may take several hours or even a day or two before everything starts to work normally). One important note before disconnecting the circuit board, UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FIRST!!!

Another interesting thing I found out about the defrost heater for the frig, is that during the defrost cycle it makes a soft, low grumbling sound (I was trying to eliminate the heater as the cause of the defrost not working). I know this because while this sound was going on I disconnected the lead to the heat element the sound immediately stopped and when I reconnected the heater plug, the sound resumed. The heater plug is next to the fan plug in the upper right of the compartment in the back of the frig as you access it from inside the frig compartment.

Lastly to see if I can prevent having to disconnect the circuit board all the time (we have infrequent power outages here which I think have a lot to do with this issue), I bought a $10 surge protector just for the refrigerator. Hope that solves that problem and good luck to whoever has the same issues.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: cooling did not resume after power outage

you need to do a reset on the control by pressing the two top buttons until it resets.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

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