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Re: evap fan stoped running
There is a thermostat that closes when the coil gets to a set temperature and that brings on the fan. That way the fan does not blow warm air into the refrigerator. Simular to the time delay on the blowers on high efficency unit. By the way I'm a HVAC/R Technician too. Thanks for using FixYa.
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Your 3 phase unit should not have a capacitor. I'm guessing it's single phase. If it's a single capacitor than the compressor should not be going to it also. To test the motor, common to start plus common to run should equal the ohms you get between start and run. For instance, 1.2 ohms+ 2.2 ohms= 3.4 ohms. Follow the wiring diagram on the inside of the door, send model number!!
If the fan is not running is the compressor not running also...if neither is running the possible reasons are 1..no power to outside unit...2..bad contactor on outside unit.is this buzzing if it is this indicates no power...3 bad capacitor,do both compressor and fan humm then quit humming and hum some more...4 high pressure switch has shut unit down because fan wasnt running if compressor was running but not fan....if your unit has this there will be a manual reset button where the lines come out of unit...if compressor was running and fan was not...1 bad fan...2 bad capacitor.. if you do not have any electrical knowhow i would recommend calling a hvac tech to come and fix unit...Thanks
Start by shutting the unit off, before any more damage is done. Locate the run capacitor for the fan. It is a silver colored can, typically with two wires coming off the terminals. (sometimes 3). Mark and record the wire locations. The capacitor will have a part number and will be marked either 370VAC or 440 VAC and will have a rating in microfarads.
Bring the capacitor to an electrical or HVAC supply house and get an exact replacement. Install the new capacitor, close the unit up and re-power. If you are lucky, the fan will run, as normal. If not, you'll have to replace the fan motor. Capacitors are cheap, so, in my opinion, it is worth a try.
several things could cause this 1 not coolind evap caused by freon leak evap needs to get cold before fans run most modles 2 bad fans 3 im wont fill untill it reaches about 10 degrees you may need service tech sorry
You say " all thermistors check fine " , how did you check them ? Did you check for the 5-8 DC volts at the main control board , for the thermistors ? Did you do the diagnostic check for the thermistors from the control panel ? I'm sure you know there are 5 thermistors , since the refrig has the dual evap . Possibly the # 5 is bad , since it is the freezer temp " controller " , yet if it tells the board it's not cold enough , it still sends refrigerant to the refrig evap . Since the refrig evap has 2 fan motors , can't remember if there is a damper there also . Maybe when the # 3 thermistor is satisfied , it only cuts the fans off , even though refrigerant is still going thru the refrig evap .
It runs when the compressor runs except when it's in the defrost cycle. If you have an electronic control instead of a defrost timer the control could be the problem since it runs the fans. You can test the evaporator fan. See how here> How to check
Replace the motherboard (part # WR55X10942) but be careful to check that the evaporator fan (inside the freezer) turns on when you power up the refrig again. A bad evaporator fan motor can take out the motherboard. If compressor starts with new board but not evap fan, unplug immeadiatelly and replace the evap fan motor to save new board.
i replaced the control-defrost adaptive timer pc board after lighting storm and it worked fine for ten days then i turn off may power to my house to reground the house and my frig is doing the same thing fan not running evap freezing fan not running what is going on