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I HAVE A ROPER RS22CFXTQ00 SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR. HOW DO I CHANGE THE WATER/ICE FILTER? THANK YOU.

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6 Suggested Answers

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: water always inside refrigerator sometimes ice forms

LadyBlues, This is a top mount freezer. What's happening is that the drain in the freezer area is frozen over. When the unit goes into defrost, the water is running into the refrigerator area instead of going down the drain hole. You will have to remove the freezer bottom panel and then the freezer rear panel to unclog the drain hole. It will be under the evaporator in the drain tray. Use some nice hot water from the microwave and pour it into the tray until the water flows down the drain tube. This should clear up your problem. Catriver.

Posted on Jul 12, 2007

  • 100 Answers

SOURCE: water always inside refrigerator sometimes ice forms

Sounds like you might have a condensation problem. Is the fan in your freezer working? If not it's not circulating the cold air. If it is you might have frost on the lower rear wall of your freezer meaning its not defrosting like it should and restricting your air flow. Last but not least you have a damper door in the upper left corner of your fridge that allows the cold air from your freezer into the fridge to cool it, that might not be opening up. Any one of these things would cause your water problem and a warm fridge section

Posted on Dec 05, 2007

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag refrigerator Model MZ02766GEW does not dispense water

In the water supply line to the refrigerator is normally a saddle type valve where the water supply is connected to your house water line. Trace it back and shut the valve off fully then turn it back on. When some work is done to any part of your household water system sediment may have lodged in the saddle valve causing a restriction. Closing the saddle valve and reopening it may dislodge the restriction.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker does not work

Turn the icemaker off for 15-20 seconds at the rocker switch on the side of the icemaker body (square white box)Turn switch back on and immediately press the feeler arm (white paddle) in and out three time. This should start a test cycle. If still no water after it runs through a test harvest cycle (will take about 4-5 minutes), remove the icemaker and look at the ring finger size plastic tube that allows water flow into the icemaker. It is probably full of ice (because of a plugged filter or some other water supply interruption -possibly while you were changing the filter). If the tube is iced up warm it up gently with a hair dryer being extra careful not to get drops of water in the hair dryer nozzle. Do NOT use too high of a heat setting as that tube will melt... complicating things unnecessarily

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: no ice or water supply for samsung side by side refrigerator

When you replaced the filter, did someone turn off the water inside the fridge where the filter is?
Try taking out the filter and putting the plug in and see if it works then.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: The ice maker on my GE Profile Side by Side

HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).

In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to Remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. the multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.

To determine which model you have, Remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.

component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)

First you will need to Remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, Remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.

the inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. the inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. the inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.

Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.


* NOTE_ If you have the component type, i would verify motor functions, as well. Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire.If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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1 Answer

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hi Adam,
The knob you speak of is the filter location. Take that off, remove the filter, and replace with a new one, that should solve the trouble, you can probably get a new one online or thru Lowes or Home Depot, or any place that has this style machine for sale, i.e. Sears.
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Here is a tip that I wrote about the reasons why ice makers do not work.

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Are you sure you have the RIGHT Filter cartridge? If so, does your system have a water dispenser and if so.. is that working? If not.. some but not all ice makers have a test button under the removable service cover.. If your has that..press it and it should fill your ice tray directly after that.. If it doesn't then.. are you sure you have water back on to the system? can you reinstall the old filiter as a quick test to see if that's the problem?.. Thru a few ideas at you and hope one of them will get you going with ice.. BTW.. some systems take a pretty long time to cycle thru ( fill the air cavities with water , before they show any sign of life..meaning ice cubes)
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