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Gathering of thread on bottom side of seam

I can't figure out why I am getting bulky thread on underside of seam but even stitch on top.

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You need to do a tension assembly test. Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} Tension assembly test. To do this test. Pull the thread through the tension assembly and test it to make sure the tension is working correctly.
(To do this test, adjust your tension setting to normal or medium or 5 or something in the middle. Raise the presser foot and pull the thread through the tension. It should pull easily!! Lower the presser foot and pull the thread. It should pull noticeably harder.)
If it doesn’t work this way then you probably have a piece of thread or lint stuck inside the tension discs. To remove it, turn the tension to 0 zero and raise the presser foot.Using a small screwdriver, open the space between the discs and spray with canned or compressed air. The stuff should come out. Do the tension test again to make sure you got everything and then try sewing again.
sewman7

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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Bernina 1080 pleats the fabic of 1 layer on zig zag setting.I am trying to do the "cheats way " of gathering.Have adjusted the top tension ,changed thread/ needle.What can it be?


The fabric is tunneling? The pleat is forming the length of the line of stitches? http://crazylittleprojects.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Z4.jpg Loosen the upper thread tension and increase the presser foot pressure and/or choose a flat soled foot, not an embroidery foot and/or add paper or other stabilizer on top of the fabric.

Or if the stitches are gathering up as you sew, go with it... that's what you're going to be doing anyhow, right? You can increase the amount of gathering by parking your thumb or forefinger hard against the needle plate behind the presser foot and allowing the fabric to pile up--- this is called "crimping" or "ease plus" and is commonly used for easing princess seams or sleeve heads. If it eases too much, clip the seam threads here and there and pat the fabric back out a little flatter, till it fits.

PS: If you like Gutermann poly threads, check the prices for Mara 100 at Wawak.com or similar pro sites. At Joann Fabric prices, you get an $8 spool of thread for $2.50 or less. Good stuff.

May 18, 2014 | Bernina Sewing Machines

Tip

Setting Sewing Machine Tensions


When you sew you want a nice sturdy seam, one that won't pull apart or leave gaps or cause puckering. To get this it's important to have the tensions set correctly. Many seamstresses get confused about how to set their tension. It's a fairly simple process once you understand a few basic things.

BASIC LAW OF TENSION to form the stitch: The UPPER thread tension changes the look on the UNDERSIDE of a seam while the BOBBIN tension, the bottom tension effects the appearance of the TOP SIDE of the seam. That is quite opposite of what most people think. Basically what you want is for the top and bobbin tensions to equal so that the stitch forms half way between the two.

If you can see threads from the bottom side of the stitch showing on the TOP side of the seam, like the graphic below, then either the BOBBIN tension is too loose or the TOP tension is too tight.

If there are loops on the bottom side of the seam, like the illustration below, then the TOP thread tension is too loose, or the BOBBIN tension is too tight. Typically the TOP tension is too loose.

If there is puckering on the top side then most likely the TOP tension is too tight, though it may also be the the BOBBIN tension is way too loose.

So how can we tell which it is? The best way its to begin by taking a scrap piece of the fabric you will be sewing on, or at least the same type of fabric, picking the widest zigzag stitch possible with a medium to long length of stitch and sew several inches. Now examine the seam remembering which is the top and which is the bottom. If it does not look identical on both sides then one of the tension settings is wrong. (it is also possible that the needle is the wrong type but for the moment let's assume it's the tension).

If there's a problem with the stitch you can use the above rules to figure out which tension is off. However, as the top and bottom tensions work together let's begin by going through a basic check-off list.

First examine the threading of the upper thread and make sure it is correctly following the path and isn't catching on something. This is really important when you think you've looked through everything and just can't 'see' the problem. Taking the time to go through these steps can save you a lot of pulled hair!

Next pull out the bobbin and examine it in it's case. Are the threads would around it evenly or are they all jumbled and crisscrossed? Jumbled up is a BAD thing. Try a different bobbin that is wound correctly. Now examine if the thread is coming out of the proper place, through the tension slot. Pull on the thread to see if there's total resistant. If so, something isn't right. But it can also be a problem if there is no resistance so let's now do this test.

Suspend the bobbin in it's case by the thread. Let it dangle there is space, still holding it by the thread as if it was a yoyo. It should dangle there with a little slipping, the length of thread between it and your fingers getting a bit longer. If it hits the floor there's no resistance! You have NO tension. That is BAD. Now, while still dangling it gently flick your wrist like you're holding a yoyo and wanting it to drop down a little bit, which is exactly what it should do if the tension is correct. If it doesn't release any thread at all, doesn't drop down a bit then the tension is too tight. Most bobbin tensions are adjusted by turning the little screw on the casing next to where the thread comes out. (Make sure that the bobbin turns in the case the right direction too which is the same direction of the slot!)

If the bobbin drops a lot it is too loose and you will need to tighten it a bit. Remember that a gentle flick should allow more thread to come out but not reel out. There should be some resistance.

Now that we have the bobbin correctly adjusted place it back in the machine and sew another test seam and examine it. By using the rules at the beginning of this tip determine if the upper tension is just right, too loose or too tight. Adjust the upper thread tension accordingly, first raising the pressure foot then turning the dial or however your machine adjusts tension. The higher the number the tighter the tension and vice-versa.

So that you know what the upper tension should feel like pull on the thread at a point BEFORE it goes through the needle first. Pulling after it goes through the needle puts a bit more tension on the thread and I want you to feel the tension before that point. If the tension is too tight and you pull on it after it goes through the needle it may break the needle if it's a small sized needle. You should feel some resistance. You shouldn't have to tug hard on it to pull more thread through but it also shouldn't reel out without any resistance. If the thread is breaking either the tension is very high or the thread is catching somewhere. Check the threading as well as look to see if the spool is turning freely on the spindle. Sometimes the thread will catch on the spool itself. When you buy a new spool of thread remember how the end was through a tiny slot on the side of one end? If that slot is on the bottom of the spool on the spindle it can sometimes catch the thread as it turns. Simply turn the spool upside down and re-thread the machine if needed.

Now once more do a test seam and examine it. Follow the above steps until the top and bottom of the zigzag are identical - perfect!
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on Jul 01, 2011 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Cant get my bobbin in right position it keeps knotting up on inside of fabric


Top thread problem, Not enough tension on top=loops on the bottom of the fabric; too little tension on the bottom = loops on top of the fabric. Yes, I know it seems backwards. See: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22521551
Dollars to donut holes, you either threaded the top of the machine with the presser foot down (it has to be UP to let the thread into the top tension), or you're trying to sew with the presser foot still up (which is an issue common to people trying to sew bulky seams).

Take the thread off the top of the machine, take out the bobbin case and give the machine a cleaning, rethread the machine, fetch up the bobbin thread and hold the bobbin and top thread ends together under and behind the presser foot for the first 2-3 stitches of each seam.

Jan 26, 2014 | Brother LS-2125 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How to do gathered stitches on j3-20 series


Gathering stitches is same on most makes and models, you just set up for a straight stitch but turn stitch length up to 4 and loosen off the top tension by one number, ie turn it down a little. Then sew two straight stitch seams where you want to gather, one at 10mm from raw edge and one at 20mm from raw edge, leaving long thread tails on both. Then draw up the bobbin (underside) thread to gather the fabric.

Jan 04, 2012 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have the singer 7442 and i cannot figure out how to get the baste stitch for gathering material on a flower girls dress. I've tried everything and there's nothing in the manual, can you help with this?...


Normally to gather fabric, you select the regular straight stitch, turn the stitch length up to maximum (4 or 5 usually), and stitch two rows of stitches, one at 10mm from edge and one at 20mm from edge.

Then gather by pulling the bobbin threads (underneath ones) from each end to gather the fabric. If doing lengths of more than 1 metre, then stop, leave long thread tails, and start a fresh length of gathering threads to avoid gathering long lengths of thread which might break on you.

If your machine has a basting stitch it might look like " .___.___.___" on the dial however, I've never been that happy with machine basting for things like attaching slippery fabric to underlining, I've always done it with needle and thread to keep the two layers matching and not stretching/slipping. For example, stitching a piece of chiffon to a underlayer of satin, even pinning carefully, these two fabrics will slip under the machine foot so I'd always do it by hand.

If you have masses of fabric to gather, sometimes what is quicker is doing a large wide zig zag over a length of perle cotton (heavier than thread) at the 15mm seam, don't let the needle pierce the cotton though. Then you can gather the fabric along the perle cotton.

Sewing machine instruction manual often assumes a knowledge of sewing techniques that you may not yet have. I have the Vogue Book of Sewing on my shelf and refer to it often. Or Singer do a good range of sewing books too, its worth investing in a good reference book.

I also love www.patternreview.com, this is such an awesome website for dressmakers/sewing enthusiasts and you will find loads of helpful tips here.

Hope this helps you a little.

Apr 16, 2011 | Singer 7422

1 Answer

I cannot get the tension right on my 2600 Brother machine. I am stitching in the ditch with three layers of material. Can you please help?


Make sure you have the right size needle...not to small. Then do a simple seam through three layers (doesn't need to be a seam just sewing through 3 layers of scrap) using a wide zig zag stitch. Examine the stitch looking at both sides. Do they look even, identical?

Think in opposites, ie the bottom thread tension affects the stitch on the top side and the thread tension on top affects the stitch on the bottom side. If one side is loopy then the opposite side tension is too loose (or, sometimes that side's tension is too tight). Adjust until both sides are identical looking. Then try stitching in the ditch like you wanted to.

Mar 30, 2011 | Brother XL-2600

1 Answer

Top stitche is to tight and bottom stitche is to loose


Meaning you have adjusted the tension for the top thread as well as the bobbin?

Use two distinct colors of thread - one for the top and one for the bottom.

Thread the machine with the presser foot up.

The two threads should meet in the middle of the stitch with neither obvious on the opposite side of the seam.

Set the top thread tension to 4 and adjust the bobbin as needed.

May 01, 2010 | Brother CS6000i Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

How do i keep the thread from gathering on the underside of the material The thread bunches and breaks. thought it might be the tension but can't seem to fix. I cleaned the bobbin areas.


Hello,
Here are some solutions for you to try.


* Re-thread your machine, it may be threaded incorrectly.

* Raise your feed dogs if your machine has this feature.

* When you start to sew a seam, hold onto the upper and bobbin thread tails. Hold them back and out of the way as you sew your first couple of stitches. This will keep them from getting caught in your machine.

I hope this helps.

Sep 20, 2009 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Thread tension problem when sewing on heavy fabrics


Sometimes when I need to use heavy thread for top stitching to reinforce a seam that has come undone, I will use the heavy thread on the top and regular thread on the bottom. I haven't tried it the other way around for hemming but I would think it would work. I do not currently have a Bernina.

Jan 15, 2008 | Bernina Artista 180

5 Answers

Coverstitching on White Speedylock serger


Your machine cannot do a cover stitch. Check the Brother website, they make a cover stitch only machine, it works much better than any of the serger/cover stitch combination machines, and it is a lot less money.

Nov 19, 2007 | White Sewing Speedylock 1600 Mechanical...

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