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Claude Hampton Posted on Aug 27, 2012
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Brake pedal works at ferst then travels to the floor

Brake warning lights are on, brake fluid is fine, brake pedal slowley travels to the floor after stoping and slowley boost back up

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Stephen

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  • Ford Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 28, 2012
 Stephen
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Usually a sign of a failing master cylinder. One of the seals inside is allowing the fluid to bypass the piston.

5 Related Answers

dlongav

David Quesenberry

  • 98 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2008

SOURCE: anti lock brakes

Well this is very serious I hope you deal with it right away. You mentioned that sometimes the pedal was hard,do you mean that its all the way up and it doesnt feel like you have power brakes?? If so have you noticed any sounds like air escaping (swoosh sound when brakes applied)? Failure of the power booster causes pedal to become very hard and could possibly be your problem for hard pedal if I understood you correctly. check to make sure that vacuum to the booster is conected properly and hose not kinked..Now for the solution for the pedal fading to the floor... You either have air in your brake system, A bypassing master cylinder , or a hydraulic leak...Were your brakes serviced recently?? if so try bleeding your brake system first...That would be the first step if still the problem persist I would isolate exactly where the problem was coming from.. To do this you would start at the passenger rear wheel and line clamp the brake hose to make that part of your brake sytem inoperable...when clamped try your brakes and note if brakes improved or had know affect on system (when testing obviously im not suggesting you drive to determine results of test procedure)repeat test for each wheel you have isolated the problem when brakes feel normal with one wheel clamped,which ever it may be.. This isnt as hard as it might soun and if you are confused at all dont hesitate to ask questions... Remember the only dumb question is the one you fail to ask I would hate for you to get into an accident ... Good luck!!!

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Anonymous

  • 49 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2009

SOURCE: no brakes - pedal travels tro the floor!

chang the master cylinder it is bleeding by in side the master

Anonymous

  • 1214 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 15, 2009

SOURCE: Brake & ABS Warning LIght

There is a known failure of the ABS system control board which typically causes this problem. THere are companies out there that will rebuild your current board (if it's rebuildable). Do a search on ABS repair in Moscow, Iowa.

They will rebuild the module for $150.00 and warrant the repair for 5 years (as opposed to up to a $1000 form GM, and no guarantee as to how ling it will last.).

I did this to my '01 Tahoe and am real happy with it. The company offers diagnosis tests to help you determine if the problem is your ABS module.

Reply back what you find.

Anonymous

  • 106 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2009

SOURCE: 94 buick brakes

There could be 2 reasons that the pedal would go to the floor.1 -there is air in the system.If no one has taken a line loose then it will be #2 -the brake master cylinder has gone bad and will need to be replaced.Ther will be directions on how to do this proporely with the replacement unit.if you need further assistance let me know.

Anonymous

  • 79 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2009

SOURCE: excessive brake pedal travel

pump the brakes a few times they should stiffen right up

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1answer

Clutch travel to the floor

the brake fluid has drain out of clutch master cylinder fill with brake fluid reservoir is next to the brake master cylinder. pump pedal if spongy then bleed system with a 2 ounce syringe at slave cylinder loosen screw and force fluid to the master this will push all the air out.
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99 dakota with engine running brake pedal will travel to the floor with engine turned off pedal is hard 1 inch from top

Sounds like a bad brake booster.. It's the large can behind the master cylinder. The fact you have a hard pedal with engine off is the key here.
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Rolls Royce Shadow 1 brakes fade then come back after a few hours

Firstly you should change your brake fluid then bleed the brakes and check for leaks if the fluid is old it could get hot or boil through use and cause bubbles which will compress when you press the pedal but when it cools down again it will feel “ normal” again
1helpful
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When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...

try this ABS bleeding procedure:

WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
    3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
    6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
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Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Open the bleeder valve.
    3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
    4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

  4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
  7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
    3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
    7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

  8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
  9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
  10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

  11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
1helpful
3answers

While driving my 1994 Honda Accord the brakes went out. I can only get the car to stop if I press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor. When the car is shut off and I pump the brake pedal, I can...

There may be air in the lines. Bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the resevoir, and finishing at the closest one. Try the pedal after its bled. If the pedal still feels soft or travels to the floor there may be a pinhole leak that may be spraying on the underbody of the car, or the seals in the master cylinder are gone filling the vacuum booster(if equipped). Air compresses more than oil so if bleeding works that may be the problem.
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Pedal to the floor, topped up fluid - brakes OK, warning light ON

If you have an ABS computer, unplug it for a few minutes, the light should clear.
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"Brake" warning light stays on

hi..Your break light sensor/switch is sticking. It's usually
located on the floor of the vehicle behind the brake pedal.
Spray some WD-40 on it and see.
try this out..
thank u..
rate me..
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Excessive brake pedal travel and 'soft' brakes

the brakes have to be bleed you wrote that when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor that means the booster is working fine take it back and tell them you want the brakes bleed
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