An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: won't stay running
Is this kerosene or propane. if kerosene, two types of ignition is used. a spark plug or a hot surface ignitor. the kero unit uses a cad cell flame detector, the propane unit uses a millivolt generator. the kero unit uses an air pump that comes off the backside of the fan motor - this airline goes to the nozzle and acts like a siphon for fuel. there is no air pump for the propane heater. the fan just accelerates airflow through the combustion chamber. the cad cell of the kero unit sees the flame and varies its resistance. it is sensitive to the infrared generated by the flame and feeds this signal to the lockout relay. no flame after a few seconds, opens and locks out the unit. the propane unit uses a millivolt generator. it is a copper cappillary tube that has two spade connectors on it. the spade connectors are connected to a high limit mounted on the backside of the combustion chamber. under normal conditions the hi limit is closed and completes the electrical circuit to the main valve. the millivolt generator is electrically connected to the pilot/main valve electromagnet inside. with a flame detect signal the electromagnet is energized and holds the main valve slug open allowing the propane to feed to its nozzle in the chamber. as long as there is a flame the valve stays open. no flame, no signal and the unit releases the valve pellet and closes. you can test the hi limit by jumping out the two spade connectors and see if the unit starts and stays running.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
make sure that the toggle switch is not in the on position first. then take the cover off the t=stat and see it the contacts open when turned down below room temp. now tell me you have a hydrolic t=stat. most times they will fail in no heat.
Well it could be the gap on your igniter, or the position of the igniter as well. Also make sure that your intake air filter is clean, this is located at the rear of the heater and is foam rubber. I wash mine in dawn dish soap just make sure it is really dry when you put it back in. The last item I want you tyo check is the in line fuel filter, it is located under the side cover and I clean these with a compressor and blow gun. Simply remove it and blow air backwards thru it, instantly clean. Then last if it will not run with the cover on try backing down the pump pressure, this is done on the back of the pump where you located the air filter. There are two on my old one and I adjust it by eye, go for the hottest flame not past the nose cone, then make the nose cone turn as red as fast as you can. I certainly hope you understand my babbling here, it really is not hard to make the adjustments. You want to keep in mind that a fast clean ignition must also happen with you adjusting the pump. Small adjustments do a lot! Good Luck
If you brought the heater to my shop with the great (no lie!) description of the problem we would immediately grab a flashlight, shine into the tank and look for water droplets rolling on the bottom of the than. (Keep in mind that a layer of water can be on bottom & not show up with the light)
The next thing would be to use soapy water and try to find a crack in or around the plastic cover and move all the way to the nozzle looking for an air leak. 3.4 at the gauge doesn't mean the air is going all the way to the nozzle.
Next, remove the top cover. Does the heater run fine once removed? If so, replace the worn out nozzle. That heater has some age on it and DESA recommended annual replacement.
That could be a couple of things....
Open up the bottom cover and take the wire off of the "G" terminal that goes to the t-stat...then replace the cover and see if the blower still runs...
If it runs then the problem is intenal to the furnace, probably the integrated control board or a high limit is tripped...
If that stops the blower from running then you have a bad relay in the t-stat ora shorted wire going to the t-stat.
first try to pull out the little white button on bottom left side. if it is already pulled out, then take cover off, lightly press on the center dial as you adjust the little adjusters that are in the dial. should be two of them, the first should say off set to 90, second one says on set to 130or 135. these steps may work. if not then one of the wire connections may be loose.
Provided the rotor and vanes are serviceable the pump should produce around 10 psi if you completely close off the airline tubing. If your gauge will not read with the tubing totally restricted, then I would check the relief valve to see if the ball is in first, then the spring, then the screw with the hole. These items should be in the longer of the 2 bosses. If no pressure reading at this time you either have a broken rotor or a defective gauge.
If you get some pressure with the tubing restricted, but there is not enough, then use soapy water to find the air leak. If there is a crack in the plastic end cover- replace it.
I had the same problem with a 110. It was the plactic cover over the filter it had cracks in it and would not push out enough fuel for it to run with the cover on. It would just blow out the flame. I replaced the cover with the adjustment screws on it and filters and runs like a champ.
It is found in the lower right hand corner of the heater (as facing from the front) behind the trim pieces close to the wall. It will be a yellow wire with a black plastic tip. Prior to replacing it, Hold it in your hand and see if the heater shuts off after a minute or so. If it does, seal the area behind the heater for air leaks and raise up the sensor closer to the top of the heater. There is slack in the wire if you remove the front cover of the heater and undo a tie holding the excess wire. If holding on to the sensor does not help, check the connection on the circuit board. Replace it if it does not help. Part nuber 1004F-2057.
try this, take off the top cover. plug in the heater and when the humming starts, rotate the fan sharply with a screwdriver. keep your fingers away from the fan. if the fan spins under power your start winding is shot. get a new motor. www dot desatech dot com