Light stays on

Wiring Examples and Instructions
How-To-Wire-It.com
Basic or Common Connection Points
Terminal Colour Signal-Type Description C Black 24 Vac Common Common side of 24 Vac Transformer See Diagram below R or V red 24 Vac Transformer Power Power side of 24 Vac Transformer See diagram below RH or 4 red 24 Vac for heat 24 Vac power before heat switch see diagram below Rc Red 24 Vac for cool 24 Vac power before cool switch see diagram below Y Yellow switched power (cooling) Signal to turn on cooling system see diagram below W White Switched power (heating) Signal to turn on heating system see diagram below G Green Switched power for fan Signal to turn on fan (forced air) see diagram below
Heat Pumps/Multi-Stage Units
Terminal Colour Signal-type Description Y2 Can vary Switched power (2nd stage cooling) 2nd stage cooling signal to compressor W2 Can vary Switched power (2nd stage heating) 2nd stage heating/ sometimes used as emergency heat E Can vary Emergency heat enable Dedicated emergency heat 0 Orange Reversing value Reversing dynamics of the heat pump ----

Good morning Yakup.

The best way is to write down how the old t-stat was wired. If that's not available, the only way to determine for certain where each wire goes, is to check what the installer did at the terminals in your home comfort system. Please note the there is high voltage electric in each piece of equipment so if you decide to open up panels, there is always the risk of damaging the equipment or worse, injury or death if you are not a qualified service technician. However, typical color assignments are as follows:
R= (24v from heating appliance) Red
RC= (24v from cooling appliance) Red
These two are only separated when you have two different appliances providing seasonal comfort, like a boiler and an air handler. If you have a warm air furnace with an air conditioner or a heat pump attached then R+RC will have a jumper across them and only one RED wire will be landed there
W= (heat) White
Y= (cool) Yellow
G= (fan) Green
Those colors are pretty standard
The rest of the colors depend on availability in the jacket and are really up to the installer. You mentioned 7 wires but 8 conductors is more likely so I'm assuming the remaining colors are black, brown, blue, and orange.
I always use the following:
C= (common) Black
O/B= (reversing valve for a heat pump) Orange if the valve is energized for heat and Blue if the valve is energized for a/c.
Aux/E= (auxiliary or electric heat) Brown
L= I believe this is a diagnostic terminal for some systems with feedback data and is not used frequently.
After wiring there is some programing to do to set up your new thermostat to your type of system.

Hope that helps. God bless and be careful.

62-24084-02 LED CODES
POWER LED - GREEN
ON - Normal
OFF - No power to board
OK LED - GREEN
One Blink - One hour retry delay
Two Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains open)
Three Blinks - Limit switch fault
Four Blinks - Pressure switch failure (remains closed)
Five Blinks - Twinning fault
FLAME LED - YELLOW
ON - Good flame
Rapid Blink - Flame present with gas valve de-energizing
Slow Blink - Marginal flame

Copy following link for Intellivent service manuals, and error codes:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

Wiring error
Check outlet polarity using circuit analyzer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#polarity
Check that outlet is fully grounded.
Check that ground wire has continuity to manifold tube (largest tube connected to bottom of gas control valve)

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If you have the same Autocirc product I have, then it cannot be taken apart. The timer seems to be connected and sealed together with the pump. If yours is different, answer back with the wires that you can see and we'll see if the timer can be by-passed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

With the ordinary Grunfos-type pump that is not on a timer, you can add a switch and have the pump work on demand as you describe.

And they make a product that does the specific job you describe. It's called a Demand Pump. Link above shows two different types at page bottom.

I have not tested either Demand Pump shown. They operate on-demand ... when you activate the pump, the pump quickly brings water over from the hot water heater.

So the Demand Pump has a higher volume pump than the Autocirc or Grunfos.

I question a two things about the Demand Pump. 1) How will the increased pump pressure affect local pipes, especially supply tubes under a sink. 2) How HOT does the pump get? If pump gets hot, and it is located under bathroom sink next to paper goods, then that is a hazard. Some regional building codes don't allow ceiling light bulbs in closets because the bulbs get hot and start fires when people pack their closets full.

com=common= [ L ](live)same, the one that kills you. =red/brown N - neutral=black/blue Earth=green or green&yellow striped old colours= red, black, & green. new colours= brown, blue & green/yellow. L,N E.......... If you are uncertain of your abilities to wire up ,ask a competent electrician .........your life is worth more than £50.00.

DIAPHRAGM VALVE OR MICRO SWITCH

Have you checked for 12 volts DC getting to spark module ? If it's just the 2 wires going to spark module, Red and green, check for 12 volts at the red wire.
If it has the 9 wires on 2 connectors, check for 12 volts at Brown and Orange. If no 12 volts there, then you'll have to go back to switch and check there for 12 volts in and out when switch in on position. Let me know what you find.