Charger works good, outputs 19.1 volts and the voltage gets to the circuit board inside the computer. the constant current regulator inside the computer does not output 10.8 volts. Laptop works good from battery but the computer cannot charge the battery when its installed. Need diagram of regulator circuitry and some explanations?
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Ok, lets start slowly, do you have both a new battery and a new battery charger? If both attempt to use your old battery with the new charger. Also could be a bad charger or a shorted out battery... Good Luck
Depending on what type of plug it is you may be able to change the fuse. If the fuse has blown then you really need to know why before plugging it back in to the mains. The charger may have a broken wire in the lead that plugs in to the laptop. Usually it happens right near the plug where it gets bent and twisted. It could also be the internal fuse inside the charger box.
If you can't get it tested properly then a new one is your best bet. They are quite cheap on Ebay. Just look for the one for your make and model number and check to make sure the voltage on your chargers label is the same, it's output voltage is probably 19 volts. The voltage must be the same, NOT lower or higher. Then have a look at the label for the current which is in Amps, something like 3.15Amps. You can buy one with higher current than the one you have but NOT lower than the label says.
If the battery is not damaged or totally dead, you can attempt to charge it with any 24-Volt DC charger. The charging voltage rises to about 28 Volts when nothing is connected to the charger. You must first connect (with jumper leads) the positive charger output to the positive battery terminal. Use a test meter to determine the polarity of the battery. Also test the charger output to determine the polarity. Be sure to connect positive to positive and negative to negative. Do this before turning on the power to the charger. If the battery is a "smart" battery; that is with built-in electronic control circuit, the ordinary charger may not work. Normally, a battery will accept a charge until it is nearly completely charged and then the battery voltage will slowly "buck" the charging voltage. When the battery voltage and the charging voltage are equal, no more charging current will flow. Amperes, that is coulombs of current, charge the battery; when the battery is at (approximately) 24 volts and the charger is putting out 24 volts, NO current flows. The battery is then fully charged.
Elaborate a little more on why you don't think it is the charger? Did you test the voltage at the tip or did you test the charger on another HP device that needs 19 volts to run properly? Just remember a laptop can run with less wattage but not less voltage. I will tell you though that DV4000's are known to have power jack issues and that the jack is soldered directly onto the motherboard. They are not easy to replace because of the amount of "legs" they use to attach to the motherboard. Because of this there are issues with broken solder points on one or more of the legs. Sometimes these can be resoldered instead of having to try and remove the jack. Just heat up the solder and let it flow back over the joint and hopefully that make contact. The other issue with their jack is the solder point at the center pin breaks and the tension band inside the housing tends to lose its tension and will no longer hold the charger plug in place. Last but not least, the power circuit on the motherboard itself has been unreliable at best, if that fails, just replace the motherboard. Good luck to you.
Assuming you didn't get the PC board mounted inside the top of the tiller assembly wet, or the power controller located under the shroud, then you likely either have one or two of the batteries that are bad, or a bad charger. You will need a voltage tester that you can pick up cheap for about $6.00. Set to the DV voltage setting in the 50-100 volt scale. Remove the seat and the shroud and test the voltage at each battery. If good, they should read about 12.25 volts or more, not higher than 14. If one is normal and the other lower, say 10 Volts, that low one is bad, but you should probably replace both with fresh gel batteries, fully charge before using. If both batteries are about 12 VDC, then plug in the charger to the chair as usual, and take another voltage test on each battery. The voltage should read higher now that the charger is on. If they aren't, then your charger has no output. Some chargers you can test output voltage on without them plugged in by testing across the two horizontal pins on the 3-pin connector that you plug into the chair. The output voltage should be about 26 volts. If it is 24 or less, you need a new charger. Good luck.
The adaptor supplies more voltage than is needed to charge your batteries and operate the PC so there is a circuit, often mounted on a small, separate board inside the unit that regulates voltage for the PC and monitors and regulates the charge current for the battery pack.
Testing the plug-in adaptor without a load (drawing current from it) is not a reliable way to test it since it could itself be defective and lose some or all of the 19 volts once required to deliver current.
You might try removing the battery pack to see if the PC will turn on without it.
The packs have thermal fuses internally that can fail preventing a charge to take place.