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There is low pressure on the vaccume pump - Master Heaters B155DST

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Correction- the pump is not a vacuum pump. I produces positive pressure. Follow these instructions. It's easy.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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2 flashes wont light


SOUNDS LIKE A PRESSURE SWITCH MALFUNCTION OR A OBSTRUCTED FLUE EXHAUST. 2 FLASHES MEANS YOU ARE IN SYSTEM LOCKOUT. ATTEMPT TO START 3 TIMES THEN IN LOCKOUT MODE RIGHT? YOU WILL NEED TO TURN OFF AT T-STAT OR BREAKER TO RE-SET UNIT, OR WAIT 60 MINUTES & IT WILL DO IT AUTOMATICALLY. WHEN IT CALLS FOR HEAT THE DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR WILL COME ON, THIS WILL CREATE A VACCUM THAT OPENS THE PRESSURE SWITCH PROVING DRAFT INDUCER IS VENTING, THE VACCUM CREATED CAUSES THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO OPEN PROVIDING POWER TO THE IGNITION CONTROL. THIS IS WHERE YOUR PROBLEM IS ACCORDING TO YOUR DISCRIPTION. TRY TO DISCONNECT VACCUM LINE FROM DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR & SUCK ON IT WHILE LISTENING FOR A CLICKING SOUND AT PRESSURE SWITCH. IF YOU DON\'T HEAR THE CLICKING SOUND WHEN YOU DO THIS, THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PRESSURE SWITCH. IF YOU DO HEAR THE CLICKING SOUND THE PROBLEM IS WITH AN OBSTRUCTION IN THE FLUE VENTING. THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY DEBRIS GETTING LODGED IN THE PORT AT INDUCER MOTOR WHERE THE VACCUM LINE FROM PRESSURE SWITCH IS CONNECTED. TRY TO CLEAR OBSTRUCTION WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR A WIRE HANGER. THIS SHOULD FIX YOUR PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK. HOPE THIS WAS HELPFUL.

Dec 24, 2012 | Mr. Heater MHU45NG

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I HAVE A 115,000 btu Keroscene heater. It just stopped running.


Take the top cover off of the unit. Plug it in and look inside the burner can to see if the ignitor is glowing. If not you probably need an ignitor. You can remove it to check the heating element to see if it is intact, but be very careful, it is more fragile than glass. If it is intact, you may have a control board issue. The ignitor should glow before the fan starts. Be careful to stay away from the fan blades while doing this. If the ignitor glows, and the motor starts, you should then be able to see fuel spraying out of the spray nozzle. You may need a flash light. If the fuel does not spray out of the nozzle in the correct amount, the unit will shut down. There is a photo cell that detects ignition. If the fuel pattern does not look even, you could have low air pressure out of the pump, a dirty fuel nozzle, or a plugged fuel screen inside of the tank. The air pressure comes from a pump on the back side of the blower motor. Insure that the filter are clean on the pump; there are three of them, and the plastic end cap needs to come off to access them. If they are dirty, they need to be replaced. The air pressure off of this pump is very critical to proper fuel delivery. The rated output pressure of the pump is on the heater data plate. You will need a low pressure air gage to check this pressure. Another source of low air pressure is the plastic end cover over the filters. They tend to crack with age. Spray soapy water on the end cap while the blower is running to look for leaks.

Jan 18, 2011 | Reddy Heaters

1 Answer

I have a pro temp pt70t-kfn heater.worked good for 2 yrs now it just shuts off and the light is blinking,if i unplug it and plug it back in it works for awhile then shuts off again and light...


You probably have low air pressure to the spray nozzle. Check for dirty air filters at the air pump, which is part of the blower motor. The air output is what controls the fuel delivery. Also check for air leaks around the pump. Spray soapy water on the pump while the blower is running. To check for the proper air pressure off of the pump you will need a very low pressure air gage. There should be a pressure listed on the data plate of your heater or in your owners manual. There is also a pressure regulator on the pump, but do not adjust it without the proper gage. You should also check you fuel pickup screen to be sure it is clean.

Jan 17, 2011 | Heaters

1 Answer

I HAVE A DAYTON 3VE49 TURN IT ON FAN RUNS GETS SPARK BUT IT SEEMS TO NOT BE GETTING FUEL I HAVE TO BLOW AIR THRU THE FAN PUMP HOSE TO FORCE THE FUEL TO THE SPARK I CHECKED THE LINES CLEAR THE PROP INSIDE...


Check the fuel lines and the nozzle. Make sure there are no leaks from the air/fuel lines at the nozzle fittings or air pump. The air pressure from the pump is no where near what you forced to the nozzle with an air compressor. You can push fuel past a plugged nozzle to get it to fire with your compressor, but the air pump can not even if it's new. Check the lines for leaks with soapy water. take off the nozzle and clean it to be sure it isn't plugged. Dont loose the spring inside to nozzle. Check the pressure at the pump testing port. You can buy a gage as descibed below at an ATV dealer. use a valve stem with 1/4 threaded end and a shrader valve at the other to adapt this for testing. Extra low pressure pencil-type gauge registers 1-20 psi in 1/2 lb. units. Do not use a standard tire gage, They are not accurate at low pressures.


Good Luck

Dec 23, 2010 | Dayton E48 Oil Filled Utility Heater

1 Answer

No fuel spray, it sprays if i pressurise the fuel tank.


Follow this link. It sounds as if the rotor (air pump) is broken and needs to be replaced. Replace the rotor, then set the pump pressure with a low pressure gauge..
How to replace a rotor

How to set the pump pressure

Good luck!

Oct 18, 2010 | All-Pro Kerosene Garage Shop Heaters - All...

1 Answer

F22 error/ low pressure


F.22 Dry fire Too little water in the appliance, water pressure sensor defective,
cable to pump or water sensor defective, pump blocked or defective,
pump output too low

May 11, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

I have a 3 ton Rheem heat pump that calls for about 225# pressure on the high side at about 40 degrees outside with tstat set at 70 degrees indoor.... I am confused as to why both sides of the manifold...


Where are you connecting the gauges? It sounds like you have both gages on the high pressure side. You can't hook the suction gauge to the Big line on a heatpump because that is high pressure in the heating mode. There should be another tap that says low side or low pressure, that's where you hook the suction gauge. As for adding more refrigerant, I wouldn't do that until I measure the subcooling.
If you charge it in heating unless you weigh it in you want about 10° to 15° subcooling. Then this summer you need to check the subcooling at about 95° outdoor ambient then charge it to about 10° to 15° subcooling in the cooling mode and that should be the correct charge.

Feb 15, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

I am working on a GE Weathertron Heat pump (Mod# BWB924A100C1; Ser# 264082948). The complaint is it is not heating as well as it once was(running a long time to heat up house). I checked the pressure, the...


It is very hard to charge a heat pump in the heating mode. The pressures are low. It also depends on the outside ambient temp. If you can turn to cooling if inside temp is above 70 degrees. Take a piece of plastic and block condensor till you get your head pressure to about 235. Not discharge temp but liquid pressure near service valve. You do not have a TXV inside I believe. Get your suction pressure up a little more It is not to low on gas. If you have temp meter attatch a lead to suction line. Temo\p should be about 10 to 14 degrees difference Between suction temp and Temp on your suction gauge. If you need a charging chart I can fax you one. Rus

Dec 04, 2009 | Heaters

1 Answer

Problem with pilot shuting after heater thermostat cycles off


It could be a few things:
1.Not enough fresh air or the unit is too large for the room it is installed.
(Try to open a window)
2. It could be low gas pressure. This can happen it your LP tank is low or something is wrong with the line.
(Call your gas or LP company)
3. ODS Pilot may be clogged.
(Use a vaccum cleaner, pressurized air, or a small, soft bristled brush to clean).

If this does not fix the problem you may need to replace the pilot. You can contact them at 800-446-1446 or on-line at www.masterparts.net. I hope this helps!

Jan 01, 2009 | Desa International GWRP26T Infra-Red Wall...

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