My intertherm furnace has been working very well until just lately. I woke up one morning and the it was 61 degrees in my home but my thermestate was set for 68 degrees. I noticed that my furnace would still blow out warm air but only for 20 to 30 seconds before stopping and then starting again. The furnace would run again and then the fan would run again for the same amount of time...and so on.. Basicly it wouldnt stay blowing long enough to raise the tempature.....
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Re: furnace won't stay on
Flame sensor could be dirty. It is located right beside the last burner
looks like a thick piece of wire. Take steel wool and gently clean the
probe 4 or 5 strokes is all it will take to take off the carbon build
up off. Lets eliminate this item and see if it clears up okay. ken
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OK. Let me answer you, even if honestly I don't have any idea about an INTERTHERM FORCED AIR FURNACE. To get any answer, to a problem, you should describe your problem. Just telling that you don't know what's wrong with it is simply no enough information, even for a star expert in your INTERTHERM FORCED AIR FURNACE.
Number of flashes mean different things for diff models. The meanings of those flashes should be posted somewhere on the unit; usually inside front of the bottom service panel. Though you can't truly diagnose a problem by number of flashes they can give you an idea of where to look for a problem. There are a ton of videos and how-to's about furnaces on youtube by real service techs. Most modern furnaces have basically the same set-up and features so don't worry about your paticular brand; but of course that would be the best place to start looking. You could start here to familiarize yourself with your brand of furnace:
hello,The 90* nozzle is usally installed in miller brand units because of the "short" chamber.The 90* should not cause soot.Soot = not enough primary AIR into the burner mix.If the unit mfg. wants .50/80*a it should be used.#559 might translate into a .65gph input thus overfiring the unit.If a .50gph is installed the AIR mix problem will take care of itself (less fuel).Soot is unacceptable in your (young)3.5yrs unit and should NEVER have soot at all.The problem started when the nozzle was replaced try (insist) on mfg spec. nozzle.
The only thing that tells the unit to come on and off is the thermostat so I would definatly say it is it. When you turn the system back on, does the a/c run normally? If it does, then it's the problem with the heating side of the tstat. Also, does the fan come on when you put it to on and then turn of when you switch it back to auto? If it does, then the system is working fine, its the t-stat. Let me know if you have any more problems.
check out the fan switch on the unit and make sure that its the correct one. it should cycloe on @ 120 degrees and cycle off around 100 degrees. Someone may have put in a different one and that is not the approve one.
Make sure fan relay is wired correctly (G) wire. Ensure the fan on therm is not on, it should be on Auto or off.
If your furnace is short cycling because it has to keep heating your home, the delay in the control board may be staying on to compensate for the exchangers getting hot. If it heats normally, then put your attention to your thermostat.
Set the heating system on aux heat only. Fan should not be on, if it does stay on after a heating cycle, see if the furnace is heating normally, and reaching temp as desired before the heat comes off. Then check the therm wiring, pull the face of the therm, disconnect green wire (fan) and try the heating again.