Question about Bosch Axxis WTA 3510 Electric Dryer

13 Answers

Dryer Struggles to Start Tumbling WTA3510 UC/13

Hi,

My dryer struggles to start tumbling with light loads and difficulty seems to increase with load size. Here's what I've done to date;

  1. Replaced motor capacitor (part # 170858): No change.
  2. Checked motor & capacitor wiring: Seems ok to me.
  3. Replaced motor (part # 141855): No change.
  4. Check control board: Passed all programs and checks.
  5. Cleaned and lubed drum bearing: No change.
Here are my current thoughts; The capacitor I used for replacement is defective, or possibly the drum felt seal needs replacement or lubrication. I would love to hear comments and thoughts of others. My laundry is starting to pile up and the wife is not too happy (we have a 9 week old baby).

Thanks in Advance,
Thomas

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  • 20 more comments 
  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    I forgot to mention that this dryer is 7 years old.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    I checked the beaker and also the voltages in the splitter box. All were in a range of 249.8 to 250.1VAC during start up and static conditions. Thanks for the tip.



    BTW, I read a reply to a similar issue on this website saying the rear panel that supports the drum (via the bearing) could be bent. I've check this and I tried "tweaking" the rear panel during operation and no change to my issue.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    I checked the beaker and also the voltages in the splitter box. All were in a range of 249.8 to 250.1VAC during start up and static conditions. Thanks for the tip.

    BTW, I read a reply to a similar issue on this website saying the rear panel that supports the drum (via the bearing) could be bent. I've check this and I tried "tweaking" the rear panel during operation and no change to my issue.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    I forgot to add that I've replaced both the drum belt and small belt. I think these are the only belts?

    I've also replaced the sliding ground contacts. I don't think these are related to my issue but they looked very worn, just preventative maintenance.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    The drum turns so it's not the belts or door switch. However, it struggles in the beginning of rotation. I've replaced both the capacitor and motor so they are ruled out, at least the motor. The "new" capacitor could be bad. I measured it on a capacitance meter and it read C=9.95uF and Rs=4.3ohms. C is within the 5% spec, but I don't know about Rs?

    Still the drum could be the culprit, but it doses seem to rotate freely...?

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    I appreciate all the great suggestions, but please read all my comments before posting. A lot of possible causes have been reviewed, check, or replaced.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    I have not cleaned the moisture sensors per the manual, but they passed the continuity check in the dryer's diagnostic program.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 21, 2008

    What kind of lubrication should be used on the drum? If you look at the felt seal kit for this model there seems to be a tube of silcone that comes with it.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 22, 2008

    Please read all comments before posting a solution. Thanks.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 22, 2008

    Seems to be related to the blower. If I remove it the symptoms seem to go away. Seems like the blower is way out of balance and causes a lot of vibration. The dryer is much less noisy with the blower removed. Has anyone else seen similar issues with thier blower?

  • Thomas Landon Dec 22, 2008

    Well I guess that I didn't know that they were not needed. Neither did any of the techs I consulted with. Why did you give me a pre-canned solution without spending the time to read my original post?

  • Thomas Landon Dec 22, 2008

    I guess I like to try and fix things. I was successful a year ago fixing (with help from FixYa) our washer, it was the motor brushes. I guess I figured I would have similar success with the dryer, turned out to be much more challenging. In the future I will more carefully choose my battles.

    The last thing I did was to lube the drum with a small amount of silicone grease. Seems to be working better. The blower is still very noisy. It's always been like this, I just didn't realize what caused the noise.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 22, 2008

    Thanks for your advice Benimur. I think it must have been mechanical, since adding a small amount of silicone grease helped the the problem. Maybe this fix will only be temporary and the real problem is, as you suggested, the bearing or support brackets? The belt tensioner seems to be functioning ok, but I guess this too could be an issue. I'll wait and see if the problem shows up again.



    BTW, Rs of the cap should have read mohm (milli-ohms). This small amount of resistance seems to be resonable for this cap...?



    Best Regards,

    Thomas

  • Thomas Landon Dec 22, 2008

    How do I rate a posting? I see where I can click to accept the solution, but it will only allow comments and not ratings.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 23, 2008

    I would like to accept Benimur solution. Benimur could you please repost. Thanks, Thomas

  • Thomas Landon Dec 23, 2008

    I would like to accept Benimur solution. Benimur could you please repost. Thanks, Thomas

  • Thomas Landon Dec 23, 2008

    Thanks, coldhourz. I'll wait for the admin guys to help. Just in case they see this, I would like to accept Benimur's solution.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 23, 2008

    I would like to accept Benimur solution. Benimur could you please repost. Thanks, Thomas

  • Thomas Landon Dec 23, 2008

    I would like to accept Benimur solution. Benimur could you please repost. Thanks, Thomas

  • Thomas Landon Dec 27, 2008

    It's amazing how many people post a solution with out reading the problem.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 27, 2008

    wrong. the bearings can be purchased seperately for about $50.

  • Thomas Landon Dec 29, 2008

    not the belt or tensioner

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13 Answers

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This looks like a complex problem on a simple appliance, sure the solution is also simple.

I will go by exclusion:

Door switch and problems cauthermal fuse cause the appliance not to tumble at all, therefore tis is not the problem.

If the drum rotates freely when you spin by hand, then it is not the drum.

If it is the bearing then you usually have noise. Moreover bearing had been inspected.

If the motor had been replaced, then motor is fine.

The MCU (motor control unit) had been passed test fine, however, even if this is not common, it can still be defective.

If the belt is lose or slippery, then you can have exactly the problem and conditions descripted.

I think the belt is the more likely, check tension, belt routing, inspect the belt and ensure there is no lubricant on it, and eventually replace the belt if needed. Even if this is unlikely, the MCU can also be responsible.

Let me know how it goes.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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Is your belt possibly streached out and in need of replacement? also the tenstioner could be going bad too.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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  • 172 Answers

I had one of these dryers with pretty much the same problem. It turned out to be the drum bearings had collapsed, making the drum drop in its "revolving axis" thus creating friction at the bottom of the drum where it comes into contact with the dryer front panel assembly. This makes for the drum to not turn as easily as it normally should and can also be noisy too.Remedy is to replace the dryer completely as the drum bearings are part of the drum itself,and almost the full cost of the dryer complete.
compdoctor2005@btinternet.com

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Hi
The drum of the dryer is usually turned by a motor-and-belt assembly. There are two very clear signs that the belt is malfunctioning: You can easily spin the drum by hand when the dryer is off, or you hear a heavy thumping sound coming from the drum when the dryer is running. Here's how to test and replace the drum belt:

Step 1: Locate the belt by removing the back or front service panel. Depending on the type of dryer you own, you may have to prop up the drum to keep it from sagging. Don't let the drum hang; the bolts that hold it in the cabinet could be damaged. Don't remove any more parts than necessary.

Step 2: Identify the belt. The old belt may be threaded around the idler pulley and motor drive shaft. Draw a diagram showing how the pulley is installed so you'll be able to replace it properly. If the old belt is worn or frayed, but not broken, leave it around the drum as a pattern for positioning the new belt; cut the old belt and remove it when the new belt is in position.

Step 3: Remove the old belt from the pulleys and stretch the replacement belt into place. The new belt must extend around the dryer drum and the pulleys. The trick is to align the belt on the drum with the pulleys -- the ribs on the new belt go against the drum.

Step 4: Once the belt is aligned, turn the drum by hand, if possible, to make sure the belt is tracking. You may have to reassemble part of the cabinet to do this.

Some older dryers have a V-belt pulley drum drive. With this system, two or three pulleys of different sizes set the speed of the drum. To change this type of belt, decrease the tension on the idler pulley and install the new belt in the V-grooves of all pulleys. Then place the idler pulley back into position.
With any dryer, make absolutely sure that you replace the old belt with a new one made especially for the dryer. Any difference in belts can change the speed of the drum and cause problems with other dryer components.  Dryer Struggles to Start Tumbling WTA3510 UC/13 - 32049f3.jpg

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Try to check whether the power is not wasted anywhere and try to make sure that the mechanical and electrical parts are working properly.thank you

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

  • JITHIN ANTONY Jan 05, 2009

    does the problem solved

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Try the belt that drives the drying barrel.If it is streached or off track this could be the cause!

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

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  • Master
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You have a classic systems of a bad motor.here is a link to your dryer.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...2691&pop=flush
A lot of the time you have to cut the blower wheel off the shaft if you replace the motor. I always order a motor and blower wheel at the same time. Can always return blower if not needed. happy holiday

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

  • Jerry Parmanand Dec 23, 2008

    I'm thinking motor start/run capacitor, if you have one.

    You can measure the capacitor value by putting it in series with 120v and a 25 watt bulb.
    Measure the voltage across and the current through the cap. Then, V/I = Z, and C = 1/(377xZ) at 60 Hz.
    10 uF at 60 Hz = 265 ohms (reactive). good luck happy holiday

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, there appears to be 2 versions of your dryer, an FD 8111 and an FD8201. Still, whatever version you have, the problem you described could either be mechanical or electrical. You have tried to address both possibilities and may I share a couple of ideas that you may want to explore/try:

  • the capacitor no matter what capacitance should never have a resistance;
  • the purpose of the capacitor and as it name implies (startup capacitor) is to provide the initial kick to boost the starting of the motor. Soon as the motor attains a specific RPM, the capacitor is disengaged and the running winding maintains motor speed. If the new capacitor is suspect, then one can try to help the motor and give it a boost/push when starting by manually turning the drum (pls exercise caution);
  • if in giving the drum a manual boost and thereafter turns normally, the the capacitor is a most likely suspect;
  • if in giving a manual boost and there could be felt some hesitation, metal grinding or apparent difficulty, then it would be mechanical;
  • of course the first to be inspected would be the alignment of the drum itself, the bearing and the support brackets;
  • in some versions, there would be belt tensioners that could affect the start up as well as the running speeds.
Congratulations on the new baby. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 22, 2008

    Hi again and appreciate your quick postback.

    The leakage resistance of the capacitor would be acceptable if that high.

    Re the mechanical. Other than "winging" it, there is actually no easy repair since the correct procedure would be replacing the brackets and support of the drum. The blower attachment is likewise another indication that for some reason the brackets have warped out of alignment.

    The vibration/noise from the blower would also point to this likely possibility. Of course another reason for the vibration is a missing vane.

    Other than the "winging" it and try different "tweaking", sorry but no other recourse but to change the housing, brackets and support structure.

    Still, its Christmas, Santa might have something in store for you.

    Merry Christmas to you and your family.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 22, 2008

    Incidentally, pls rate this posting as you see it fit of course. Cheers.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 23, 2008

    huuum appreciate the "assist" through your post "I think you click accept and then after this it offers you you can rate solved!".

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 23, 2008

    Thomas,

    Just did and again now. In any case trying again.



  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 23, 2008

    Reposting again. Hope you can view now.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 23, 2008

    "...no, I did not loose my account. It is just the way the system goes.
    As coldhourz has posted, I have done multiple repost but for some
    reason, you could not view any of them...I have emailed the admins of the status of your post/problem...Pls bear with us as things are being attended to even now as I respond to you
    ..."

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If the dryer is heating but not running you will need to check for a shorted to ground heating element, stuck motor start switch contacts or the belt is off the drum. Be sure to disconnect electrical power before attempting repairs.

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Dec 22, 2008

    Why are you spending a small fortune just swapping out parts that you did not need?
    For half of what you spent, you could have had paid a tech and be sitting back reading a good book while your laundry drys!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Do not waste any more money on parts you do not need.
    The Time Has Come To Get A pro!


  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Dec 22, 2008

    Well i'm sorry this happened. But I will apologize for the others.
    Took me 40 years to realize how much money I spent like this. Now I use a shoe maker!


  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Dec 22, 2008

    Well at least I gave you an honest solution that makes sense at this point at least!
    Please give me a solved rating before you sign off!
    Good luck, Huum
    Hey let me know what the final result was when you get them to diagnose it!


  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Dec 23, 2008

    I think you click accept and then after this it offers you you can rate solved!

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You need to change out the belt or the motor is getting weak

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

  • Ronnie Houston Dec 21, 2008

    maybe you should lubricate around the front of the drum to help it move easier

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  • 327 Answers

It won't tumble If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:

Belt
Motor
Door switch
Belt Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

  • Remove the belt.


  • Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing.


  • Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.


If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor. 

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.

Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

for more detailed help just click this link
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_8_1.asp#Level1_3

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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Have you tried changing the dryer belt?

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

  • Jay Glendenning
    Jay Glendenning Dec 21, 2008

    I know that this may be way off the path .. but have you cleaned the moisture sensors as on page 12

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  • 359 Answers

Just a new idea , go to beaker panel and put a volt meter on the 220-volt lines leaving the panel or fuse if that is the case and have someone start the dryer with a normal size load in the drum see what the voltage drops to on start up could be a voltage drop problem the start up current is 3-5 times the run current so see what you get have seen several times in my career

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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