Whirlpool Ultimate Care II - Gas Dryer - Drum Won't Spin
We have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer, model: LEQ8858HQ0 and the drum has stopped spinning.
So far, we have tried opening the door & moving it by hand, but it won't move. Not sure if the dryer is belt driven, but tried to take it apart. Right now, we can't figure out how to remove the fan motor out to get to the area where the belt might be. If anyone has any ideas, please help.
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Re: Whirlpool Ultimate Care II - Gas Dryer - Drum Won't...
If you are handy with tools, try to remove the back panel and feel the belt that should surround the drum. If access is that limited, try to turn the dryer on its side and you can get to the motor from the bottom. But like the guy said before, call a pro if you can't do any of this.
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Machine not spinning....check]
1..all water gone clean pump trap and check blocked drain
2....somehting stopping drum spin drum freely by hand.
3....too much soap use low suds soap and very little of it.
4....motor brushes wearing out...call for service for this one.
No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
If this is a top loader it is possible that you have a bad clutch. sometime when your transmission leaks oil it will get into the clutch and this will cause a slower spin and possibly no spin. Tip the washer back just enough so you can see under the washer. Is there a orange/yellow sticky substance under there? If so this is trany fluid.
Depending on your washing machine model, the drum and motor are connected by 2 plastice yellow circular pieces, with a black rubber washer in the middle with holes where the pegs or rods go into. The 2 plastic circular pieces have 3 pegs or rods if you will, that connect to the black rubber washer via 3 holes. Sometimes, one or both of the 2 plastic circular piece pegs get broken off or the rubber washer cracks and breaks apart, so that the motor will not turn the drum. If thats the case, you can purchase the 2 circular pieces and black washer piece as a set.