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Re: Carrier Weathermaker won't stay running
Is this a gas furnace if so is it high efficient if so is there an led light on the furnace blinking a code usually seen through a window at the furnace. is the thermostat battery operated if so is it a new battery and are the aif filters new. These would be my first steps to check hope this helps
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If you're sure the igniter is good and the controller is sending voltage to gas valve to open, but not to the igniter then, yes, the controller is bad. The only way to know for sure is to remove the igniter's molded plug from the board and test voltage directly at the board. You should get about 100-120 vac to the igniter.
Hi and welcome to Fixya. I believe that the wind is affecting the draft. What I would recommend is to install a cap on the flue that is similar to a weather vane in that it rotates to block the wind from creating a downdraft in the flue. Some times depending on the direction and strength of the wind it will come up over the roof peak and then down the flue. A regular fixed cap may work too. You should be able to purchase one at your local hardware store. Please let me know if this was helpful. Good luck.
Yes you are right the control voltage of your furnace is 24 volts. Really without a load on the transformer usually runs 28 volts then you put a load on it and it drops down to 24-26 volts. Check the voltage between the R terminal and the W terminal with the selector switch in heat mode. Or move the thermostat switch to heat. R to C would do it also. You could also do the voltage check right at the transformer one side of the transformer is 120 volts and the other side is 24. Look for the black and white wires that is the 120 volt side the blue and yellow or off colors is the secondary side.
Now if it checks low say 24 or 22 your gas valve needs min. 24 volts to hold open the valve that allows the gas to flow into the burners. So if one of the symptoms is related to burners come on for about 3 to 5 min. then shut down and the fan keeps going it is loosing the necessary voltage to hold open the gas valve.
One more thing make sure the air filter is clean as this will cause the heat to build up in the heat exchanger and hit the high limit safety device and cut the gas off. Until the air cools enough to allow the high limit to reset then the gas valve will open and start the process all over again. Dirty A-Coil will do the same thing as the air goes through the coil to get to house. let me know how it goes ken
Remove all power from the furnace, it is likely the brain in the furnace is need of being reset, from the battery replacement, why did you change the battery, was there an indicator telling you to change it?
Many times just removing all the power to the furnace will do the trick with a reset, if not let me know and we will go from there, but it sounds like the main brain is confused or bad, more likely confused, so try the power removed first.
I have serviced these furnaces for 20 years and I can tell you most of these models did not have diagnostic lite on them. (although some did, especially if the control board has been replaced) The problem is most likely a bad 3 wire pilot. This will cause exactly what you describe. 2 things to consider though. 1, If you were to replace the pilot don't get a cheaper knockoff. In my experience these do not last long at all. Get the right one from a carrier dealer. It will cost more but be much more reliable. 2 What is the condition of the secondary heat exchanger? Most if not all of the sx series had issues with the secondary heat exchangers rotting out and leaking. If the furnace is out of warranty you would be much better replacing the furnace as the cost of replacing the secondary heat exchanger will probably be almost the same as a new furnace. ( those babies are EXPENSIVE!)