I have had the expensive toaster for less than 20 months and it has not started working all together. The push down leaver will not stay in the down position, however the small red control lights are still on and can be operated.
As we live in Asia, I won't find a RH serivce out here, so I need to open the toaster myself. Which is impossible, as there re speicial screws which need a special key. Has anyone any ideas of how to open this toaster and what could be the problem?
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Unless you have power switch on to the toaster, the level will not stay down. Ensure you have main power available!
If the unit is powered, check that the 'toast darkeness' level is set accordingly - it is this 'thermostat' that determines when to eject the toast: if you checked that you have power and that the darkness level is not set to zero and it still does not work, then it is time to get a new toaster! If not under warranty, it is probably not worth trying to get it repaired.
This is a maechanical fault and all you need to do is look for a lock that clicks to hold the tray down .This latch is controlled by the bimetal which when hot moves off and releases the tray.
So this strip could have moved off or damaged with use.
Might have to replace or try to repair to keep it in the lock postion..
When the push down lever hits the bottom it pushes another little lever which makes contact with the positive and negative terminals. over time, these terminals get ever so slightly bent, especially if you start pushing the lever down hard. what you have to do is take the toaster apart, get to the positive and negative terminals and pinch back into shape with some pliers. you should understand once you look at it. Then put back together. if it doesn't work then it's likely a component has gone so, unless you have a multi-meter and a soldering iron I wouldn't suggest doing this.
I had an issue where it wouldn't stay down, or heat even if I held it down. No power at all.
Firstly unplug it.
To take it apart, turn it upside down. You have to get the 4 security bolts undone which are underneath (Mine look like they have six holes around them). Also, you need to unscrew the bobble by hand which you use to push the toast down. You can then pull the cover off, from the back first. The timer dial is connected to the cover, but I didn't disconnect this.
Note: You don't need to undo the bolts inside the toaster. (They only hold the metal base to the plastic base), the 4 torx screws holding the side panel on, or the 4 twisted pieces of metal which hold the toaster internals to the base.
Inside, there are 4 prongs which are pushed together when you push the toast down. On further inspection, I found the main blue power cable had become corroded, and had melted and become disconnected. So simply unscrewed the 2 screws hold this section on,(simply for easier access) and resoldered the blue cable back onto the correct prong.
remove the housing & you will probably notice the 2 ceramic pieces are burned out. (They maybe plastic) But these are the 2 pieces and the 2 long metal contact points that come together when the lever is pushed down. The 2 metal contact strips come together & make the eletronic connection to start the heating process. let me know if you find the parts.
remove from the electricity supply remove crumb tray, remove bottom 4 os 6 screws. at the bottom of the toaster there is what liooks like a flat fish hook that engages with the handle when you push the handle down to start toasting. clean around this and try to get it to engage when you push the handle down, it wont stay down unless the electricity is connected but dont plug it in as you will probably kill your self!! put it back together abd try it if it does not work 4 slice toaster from Tesco £9.99
jsullivan22 is right about the diode. I have this problem with my 24502, which is a dual version of this. There are 2 circuit boards in your unit one with the LED display on it and another one. The diode needing replacing is on the other board. it is in the center of the board, right next to a large (1/2W or 1W) 2K ohm resistor. The diode is probably part number 3ez24d5. Test it with the diode test on your DMM, if it is bad you will get 0V both directions (I think). Also if you measure it with the Ohm function it will probably measure less than an Ohm (check the zero on your DMM as many are not accurate down this low) You can probably replace it with a <a id="ctl00_ContentMain_CartGrid_grid_ctl02_ctl00_lnkManufacturerPartNumber" href="http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N5934BGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-1N5934BG" style="font-weight: bold;">1N5934BG</a> or a <a id="ctl00_ContentMain_CartGrid_grid_ctl03_ctl00_lnkManufacturerPartNumber" href="http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N5359BGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-1N5359BG" style="font-weight: bold;">1N5359BG</a> Mouser stocks both of these (currently). I haven\'t gotten my parts so I can\'t guarantee these will work, but I\'m pretty sure. I will try the latter first as I\'m hoping it\'s higher power rating will keep it from burning out again, although I will be buying several spares. <br><br>This is clearly a design issue with these toasters and one that could be easily corrected. Both circuit boards in my toaster are very toasty in the area of these diodes, although I\'m sure the fact that these boards are mounted very close to the heating elements doesn\'t help their longevity.<br><br>Hope this helps everyone.
Usually, four screws under the bottom remove the top but the toast loader lever knob is usually press fitted on. Some units have bent tabs to hold them together if screws are not used. To remove the knob, freeze the unit (to shrink the knob/lever) then place a flat piece of wood like a ruler wrapped in cloth on the housing behind the knob and use a large bladed screwdriver to try to work the knob off. If you break it superglue and epoxy, and drawer knobs not plastic or wood might work as a replacement.