How to change a thermostat on a hotpoint fridge rla31

possible low on freon

Basic Fridge Repair & Maintenance - Hotpoint Fridge Freezer

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Sep 7, 2012 - Uploaded by Ezee-Fix Basic Fridge Repair & Maintenance - Hotpoint Fridge Freezer. Ezee-Fix .... Refrigerator Repair- Replacing ...Missing: rsav21

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There are two things I know about freezing fridges and first thing is The circulation fan will cause this. and there is also a solid state relay that tells it to defrost. Look for both of these things. Good luck

WHEN U TALK ABOUT THE THERMOSTAT U MEAN THE COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT OR DEFROST TIMER THERMOSTAT? WHEN UR PROBLEM SOUNDS MORE LIKE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR OR BAD HEATING ELEMENT, LOCATED ON THE FREEZER EVAPORATOR COILS? IF ITS STAYING ON ALL THE TIME U HAVE A DEFROST ISSUE? OR BAD SEALS ON DOOR AND DIRTY COMPRESSOR

Your fridge is cooled by the freezer, the thermostat is within the Fridge to tell it to shut off, you might have a bad fan or a build up of frost where the air is sent to the fridge, check where air goes to the fridge when it's running, if you don't feel air flow then something is up, best thing you can do is take everything out and allow the fridge to defrost, at leat 24hrs. then see what happens, if you don't feel air flow after the defrost then you fan is shot and you'll need to replace it.

Contact the free help site www.repairclinic.com

You said no blocked drainage hole, where was the drainage hole that you checked located? Did you pour water down this drain, and furthermore did you check that the water you poured into the drain flowed into the condensate pan on the outside of the fridge? Unless you have a problem with an ice maker leaking water, it sounds very much like you do have a blocked drainage hole, otherwise known as a defrost drain. the drain system begins underneath the evaporator coil inside the freezer, this is where the water that is collected in the defrost cycle flows into a drain tube that leads the water down to the condensate pan. The best and safest way to clear out this drain is to blow it out with compressed air, after you remove any and all ice at the beginning of the drainage system, in other words, the hole located underneath the evaporator coil.

Does your model have independent thermostats for the fridge & freezer???

If not, could be that you will need to change the Thermostat.
These are not expensive - around £10 if you buy on the Internet.
Easy to fit yourself...just turn off the power, remove the power plug from the wall, then unscrew the 'stat unit from inside near the top of the fridge (some are attached to the interior light) and remove the screw holding the thermostat tube to the rear wall.
Often the thermostat gets a small hole somewhere in the long tube, which then lets all the gas escape, making the stat useless.
You can see these small holes in the pipe if you use a magnifying eyeglass, like the kind Jewellers use.

It is behind the knob your are adjusting to change the temperature.
It is very easy for me. Don't know how easy for you and your electrician friend.

Although I feel you have checked all the fuses associated with your unit, there are other things that would keep the voltage from the compressor. When your refrigerator starts, power is applied to the start windings of the compressor via a starting relay. Once the compressor is started the relay switches to the run windings. In series of the start relay is an overload device preventing too much current draw. It may be possible that either your relay is broken, or your overload is not closing for some reason. You can buy these starting components for fairly cheap. So to answer your question, no there aren't any more fuses, but there is the overload.