My faucet (hot and cold) no longer work unless I have the sprayer on. I thought the sprayer was bad but after replacing it it still doesn't work. If I turn on the cold or hot faucet nothing comes out until the sprayer is depressed. Then I get water out of the sprayer and a trickle out of the faucet once I let go of the sparyer water quits flowing.
What is the plumbing issue here. Something simple I hope.
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Re: Kitchen sink only running with the sprayer
It is hard to be certain without knowing the type of faucet, but if you have the type that has a single lever, it could be 2 things I can think of. If you have seperate knobs, I can only think of one. If you have the type with knobs, take the aerator screen off the end of the faucet, The screen may be plugged with saw cuttings of pvc or what ever type of pipe, or even the water saver orifice may be stopped up. If water runs freely with aerator off, you obviously have a problem there.
If you have the lever type, the ball valve can be in backwards, or even a little way off, and the water can not get to the faucet. I am guessing, the whole faucet assembly MAY be in backwards, but that too can usually be fixed by changing the ball around.
Hope this fixes you up!
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Most new kitchen faucets feature single-handle control levers and washerless designs that rarely require maintenance. Additional features include brushed metallic finishes, detachable spray nozzles, or even push-button controls.Connect the faucet to hot and cold water lines with easy-to-install flexible supply tubes made-from vinyl or braided steel. If your faucet has a separate sprayer, install the sprayer first. Pull the sprayer hose through the sink opening and attach to the faucet body before installing the faucet.
Where local codes allow, use plastic tubes for drain hookups. A wide selection of extensions and angle fittings lets you easily plumb any sink configuration. Manufacturers offer kits that contain all the fittings needed for attaching a food disposer or dishwasher to the sink drain system.
Delta comes with a limited lifetime warranty. call them to get free parts. I believe you will need to check several things. Remove the spray head from the sprayer hose, point the hose into the sink drain and turn the faucet on. If it no longer makes the banging noise, replace the spray head. You need to look for a leaking spray hose under the sink also. If the faucet is making noise, replace the ball and cam assembly under the faucet handle. One other thing that I have run into is that the shut-off valves under the sink can also go bad and cause banging and vibration.
If you used the teflon tape to seal the threads on the sprayer connection. Make sure the tape is has not blocked the line. Check for any kinks in the hose and it is not pinned against something.
Turn on the cold water and hold the sprayer over the sink and activate. If nothing happens while still holding the sprayer move from cold water to hot. If still no water there maybe something in the line preventing the sprayer from receiving water.
Highly doubt there is anything mechanically wrong but it has happened before. See if you can swap it for a new one.
this is a problem they didn;t tell any one about, there is a min of 1 gpm that you have to run for it to sence for the unit to come on, if not the unit will not detect the water is even runnig there for will not come on,, as for the kit faucet, it might have a temp control and it may need to have a cartridge change, the water comming from the tankless is nothing like the old tank heater, the water only losses aprox 1 or 2 degree where a tank heater losses almost 5 or more because of the way the cold water is fed into the unit,, thats whay the sprayer works and the faucet doesn't ,, you have control on the sprayer unlike turning the faucet on,,
You can, but you won't get the benefit of hot or cold wash, it will always be warm. What you need is a washer type hose (armored are the best as they last longer and less likely to break) and then a "Y" adaptor which is actually designed to chanel two faucets into one. You will be applying it in reverse though. Run the hose from the sink to the "Y" then attach the "Y" to the washer. Make sure to check the connectors match. you will need male connectors to the faucet and the washer and, generally, the "Y" has a male connector on the single side so you will need a female connector on one end of the hose. But as I said, all you washing will be warm with no option to select hot or cold unless you control that at the faucet.
Many new faucets require some assembly before mounting to the sink; if that is the case, follow the manufacturer's directions. With most pullout sprayer faucets, the sprayer needs to be threaded through the faucet body first. Insert the rubber gasket between the base plate of the faucet and the sink top to create a watertight seal. If no gasket is provided, pack the cavity of the faucet with plumber's putty, then insert the faucet body through the holes in the sink top. Thread the mounting nuts provided onto the faucet shafts, then center the threaded shafts in the sink's holes and tighten the nuts firmly. Many manufacturers include a special long socket specifically to aid in tightening the mounting nuts. A hole in the socket accepts the shank of a screwdriver, guiding it as you tighten the nuts. If you're mounting the faucet on an installed sink, use this method. If you're installing a pullout sprayer faucet--or a faucet with a separate sprayer--now is the time to connect the sprayer to the faucet body. Check the manufacturer's directions to see if using pipe-wrap tape for this connection is recommended. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection. Most pullout sprayer faucets and faucets with separate sprayers come with a counterweight that attaches to the sprayer hose. This weight helps retract the hose back in to the sink cabinet after you've used the sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's directions on where to secure the weight, and take care not to crimp the hose as you attach the weight. Hook up the faucet's hot and cold supply lines to the water supply shutoff valves under the sink. If necessary, gently bend the copper tubes coming out of the faucet for better access and connect flexible supply tubes to them. Simply wrap a couple of turns of pipe-wrap tape around the threaded nipples on the valves and connect the tubes. Tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench.