look at the pressure cooker section
(some other pressure cooker is showing in the photo) use the drop down menu to
choose the model number of your cooker and click view, it should download as a
pdf (or you can save it as one) on your computer.
Hint: I tried this
on firefox and the 'view' button would not work, so you may want to use Internet
Explorer to get your manual.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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A pressure cooker is NOT anything close to a slow cooker. The cooking philosophy are practically totally opposites. A pressure cooker basically cooks your food in a fraction of time because it is under pressure. A slow cooker takes hours.
The whole idea of using a pressure cooker is that it is sealed and applies pressure to cook the food faster. The lid needs to be sealed for the pressure cooker to operate properly. It is frequently referred to as "infusion" cooking now days.
You need to read the instruction book that came with the pressure cooker. Pressure cookers usually cook for less than an hour--my homemade pressure cooker spaghetti sauce is cooked in less than 30 minutes. They are nice and were very popular long before anyone thought of microwaves and slow cookers. However, there are some precautions to be taken. There must be water or liquid in a pressure cooker. The rubber seal needs to be cleaned frequently and, when the rubber seal warps/stretches and no longer seals, it needs to be replaced. There are also certain foods that CANNOT be cooked in a pressure cooker like rice, dry beans, etc. The pressure control valve operates to regulate the amount of pressure and releases extra pressure otherwise the unit would blow up (very dangerous!). Most pressure cookers (required on all new ones) have a small rubber emergency stopper that will "blow off" in case the pressure is too high. I've seen this happen and my mother cleaning potatoes & meat from the ceiling!
The problem is a Signal Switch Malfunction. It has to do with the power switch and the pressure switch from what I have been able to find out. Mine doesn't have a pressure problem it just goes to E4 once you set the time. I gave the switch a good smack and it has been working for a while. This is the second time and this worked both times now. I am sure the switch will have to be replaced at some time. From what I have seen this is a very common problem. There is one way to fix this problem, albeit not the best. I was able to bypass the E4 error by completely bypassing the electronics and wiring the heater coil to get power whenever the pressure cooker is plugged in. It was a very simple job, anyone with any electrical experience can do this. The only problem is that it is a safety concern as there is no way for the heater to turn off even if pressure is getting to be way too high. There may be a pressure relief valve in the lid but the heater coil won't shut off, so don't leave it unattended! But at least this way to you can still pressure cook. Pics of process: http://s909.photobucket.com/albums/ac295/danwat1234/fixing%20the%20pressure%20cooker/
I have a Tricity TSC09 6 litre Slow Cooker and I just love it its so handy, if your gone for even 10 hours it keeps your dinner warm after the cooking time runs out. I smashed the lid and was so gutted I tried for hours online to find a replacement lid with no luck. I went shopping and bought a very cheap 6 to 7 Quart or 6 to 6.5 litre Slow cooker / Crock pot of the same shape the removable pot and lid fit. I bought a cookworks, signature, 24 euro 6.5 litre oval dog standard slow cooker and the lid fit, now I also have a removable pot replacement as well just in case I smash that too. So happy I have my Slow cooker back again.
I think E2 means open circuit in thermocouple in center of bottom. E4 means no contact on pressure sensing switch at edge of bottom. Mine had E4 error. Took out switch and used fine sandpaper to clean contact points. Now it works fine. Remove 3 screws in bottom. Remove bottom cover by turning it ~1/4" to clear tabs. Remove switch at edge of bottom with two blue wires going to it. Clean contacts and replace.
No. if the steam is coming out, the vent valve is not seated on the vent and pressure won't build up. Either remove the plastic cover from the vent valve or slide it up enough so that the valve seals on the vent. If you remove the plastic cap, you will need to manually tilt the valve to "quick-vent" the cooker. Watch out for steam burns! Should work fine after that. You need to unplug the cooker and re-plug it to reset the "E4" error message.