Re: 1997 gmc yukon doesn't start when the engine is hot.
I have a 1995 gmc yukon and when the motor was cold she start with no problem and run greatr when the motor get to temp and you shut it off it would start i tryed clean contact on the starter and that didntr work i tryed the battry cables that didnt work i was told tht it may be the oil sending unit i changed that and the problem went a way not say that your problem but look at the oil gauge see what it is doing when starting and then take it from there good luck hope this helps .....................
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Did you check and see if you were getting power to the starter solenoid when key turned to start ? Is the click coming from the starter or a relay under the hood? If you have access to a multimeter check the voltage at the starter during "crank"
sounds like a spark knock. I would set the timing on the engine and if it is ok try some higher octane fuel in the engine or mix some low and high octane gas about 50/50 and see if that helps the condition. If not move the engine timing ahead about 5 degrees. You don't want to move it to far or else the engine will be hard to turn over and start.
I don't have a solution, but I have a variation of this problem... My remote start will start the vehicle (2004 GMC Yukon) then shut it right back off after less than 1 second. But, ONLY when it's cold. Once the truck warms up, the remote start works fine. The "start fail" code says "Engine over revving"... Which is odd, because the engine idles the same cold or warm - around 1100 to 1400 at start, then down to about 800 after just a few seconds. Par for the course for me - no one has ever seen this problem before. I was told by a friend not to install an aftermarket remote start on a GMC Yukon, as they are nothing but trouble, but I didn't listen.
if you feel you have the technical ability and tools like standard socket set wire crimpers and crimp terminal you may be able to do it ... the unit is most likely installed under the dashboard by the steering column ... where the wires are .... you'll have to reconnect the wire(s) that were interrupted and disconnect two more and tape up any bare wires it all depends how or what materials the installer used. On the Yukon there will be a wire from the Immobilizer to the Thick Red wire of the Yukon ... and a wire connected to the thick pink wire of the Yukon .... and there will be 2 wires from the Immobilizer to an either thick yellow or thick purple wire that was cut ... remove those two wires from the immobilizer and reattach that wire with a Yellow or blue barrel crimp whichever fits best
I know this problem. First, if you have not replaced the starter and solonoid within the last 150,000 miles then now is the time. That will solve your problem. But if your like me and your a cheapskate then this is what you do. Go to autoparts store and get a set of brushes for your starter motor, $5.00. Pull the starter and disassembly the motor, replace the brushes, etc. Disassemble the solonoid and inspect the points of contact where electrical continuity is essential. Remember 12 volt starter power is always hot at the starter. When you turn the key your just powering the solonoid coil which pulls the starter gear to the flywheel. This process also completes the circuit to the starter motor. When your car is hot, the expansion due to change in temperature will cause loss in continuity within the solonoid if parts are significant worn. Hope this helps