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GE JGSP33 Oven won't light, but burners, and broiler work

I'm trying to trouble shoot why my oven won't light. Based on other examples, I thought that it was related to the ceramic igniter. I hooked up an ammeter and was not able to detect any current when I turned the oven on. Then I disconnected the igniter, and measured resistance across the 2 leads, i.e., there was not the open circuit I was expecting.

I also tried to measure the voltage on the oven side, with the oven turned on, but didn't detect any. Perhaps there is a problem with the control panel??

Is there a way to test the igniter coil? Thanks for any help

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  • johnsmith265 Dec 25, 2008

    ExpertBrian and RescueTech,
    Thanks for your replies. I decided to just order a replacement starter from the "Fixya Shop" because that seemed to be a likely culprit. (This seemed to be simpler than swapping the broiler starter into the oven.) When I received the part, I measured the resistance of the new part to be only about 194 ohms, as opposed to the 2.4 M ohms of the old part. So even though the circuit in the old part was not completely open, it was broken.

    So my point in posting is to say that the resistance of a working starter is around 200 ohms -- at least when new.

    I quickly replace the starter, and all is well again. Thanks again for your help.

  • Expert Brian May 11, 2010

    Check the wiring down by the safety valve (where the wires to the glow bar connect). Gross as it sounds, I have seen mice chew the heck out of them and kill the circuit to the ignitor (glow bar) If that's not the case and hopefully it's not, you may have an open safety valve. The Glow Bar and safety valve are wired in series providing a fail-safe way of making sure gas won't flow without the glowbar getting up to to temp. Should be reading 2.5 or 3.5 amps depending if it's the round or square glowbar



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Hi and welcome to FixYA!
Check the resistance of the oven valve coil. This model should have a dual valve that has a broil coil and a bake coil. They should be reading identical resistance. Same with the ignitors, they are the same part #. If you have a continuous "loop" from the neutral of the line cord to the ignitor thru the valve coil and back to the control you have an issue with the oven control. If you are careful and competent, you should be able to fire the oven valve/ignitor using the feed from the control for the broiler if it is functional. There should be a BR (broil) and BK (bake) output on the control. Check for voltage coming out of the BK terminal to neutral with your volt meter when BAKE is activated. Also check the wiring diagram and make sure there is not a thermal overload in circuit that has perhaps opened up.

Good luck and I hope this helps. Be very careful working on a gas appliance!

Posted on Dec 20, 2008


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