Canon AT-1 (Similar AE-1) Shutter Fires Upon Advancing Film Lever
This is an intermittent problem, happens once very ten times film is advanced. I'm testing the camera empty with new battery. I have read something about the shutter magnets possibly being the cause. Can I get more details, a procedure? Is there pictures/schematics of the area needing fixing out there that may help? Anything else to clean when I have it open? THANKS!
No need to look at the schematics. It only will give you a little headache. Replace Shutter release magnet (MG#3). While winding stage the Mg#3 suppose to catch the lever and any dirt or particle may prevent it. Clean it and it shoud take care of the problem. Good Luck -James. For further assistance email, go to www.camerarepairjapan.com
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Could be that when the load builds up there is friction to jam the film. You must not take chance with the shot film and so try to click with the cap on the rewound portion and if the film is not advancing then it is possible that the camera must be checked with a dummy film to confirm on why the jamming takes place.It can be also due to failure of the loading mechanism
This camera is somewhere between fifteen and thirty years old. It is highly unlikely that spares would be available, and it would be extremely expensive to have it repaired in any case, most artificers familiar with the internal layout having probably retired years ago. Maybe the camera should be retired too ?
A Canon AE-1 is not an EOS camera the Canon "A" series is manual focus while EOS is auto focus. First thought In answer to the advance lever stuck or jammed I'm going to assume the camera is in serviceable condition and has not been subjected to water damage or harsh use. If we are dealing with just the advance lever then I'd say that you have over advanced the film at the last frame. I've done this myself after loading a 24 exposure and thinking I had a 36 exposure film. At the bottom of the camera there is a little pin which releases the advance lever and allows the user to rewind the film. Under normal conditions when it's time to rewind the film into the canister this pin offers little resistance to pushing in to release, however depending on how much force the advance lever has been subjected to increases the tension on this pin. Push the pin in and rewind the film. Second thought is if you have film in the camera and it has not been used fully then it's possible that the film has already been advanced to a new frame and the shutter needs to be activated before the lever will become free and advance to the next frame. Other problems with the Canon "A" series cameras is they have a tendency to dry out the lubrication and begin to squeak when the shutter is fired. This condition can eventually result is a shutter seizure and give the same advance lever condition. Those are the three things that come to mind over this lever problem lets hope it's just run out of film.
If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.
First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).
Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.
A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.
It looks like your question was cut short... all I see is "Battery indicator reads empty when batteries are..."
With my experience with the Pentax *ist DL, I think the problem is probably that brand new batteries still show "empty" on the indicator.
Chances are that you are not using the CR-V3 camera batteries in your *ist DL. I have tried 2400mAh NiMH rechargable batteries and brand new alkaline batteries in an attempt to save money.
Neither lasted anywhere near as long as the CR-V3 batteries! While you may be paying $15-$20 for two CR-V3 batteries, they last a LONG time!
One of the advantages of DSLRs (and digital cameras in general) is that you save money by no longer buying film and paying for developing/prints. But, even at $20 for two CR-V3 batteries, I save money! I am able to take several hundred photos on a pair of batteries (I think the manual says 500+) instead of $10-$15 ($2-$7 for film + $8 dev/print) for every 24-36 photos!
The battery in the film back is only used to supply power when the back is off the camera, when it is on the body power is supplied by the six batteries in the body so try them and also make sure the film insert is properly seated.
The film is either at the end or stuck. The shutter will not release unless the film advance lever has gone all the way and back. Make a note of the frame counter. Rewind the film and remove it from the camera (When you feel the film to come loose from the receiving spool, stop rewinding to prevent the end of the film to disappear inside the can. This way you can reload it if it was stuck in the middle.) If the film was completely exposed, take it to be developed. With the empty camera, try to advance the lever and release the shutter. If this works, the problem was the film and not the camera. Everything is fine. If the problem persists, take it to be repaired. If the film was stuck in the middle, load it again into the camera. With the lense cap on (preferably in a dark room or similar) 'shoot' as many 'empty' frames as you had on the counter plus two more. Finish the film and develop the pictures. If the film stucks again at the same place, rewind it and develop normally. It was a bad film. Hope this helped you to solve the problem.
This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.