Old Magic Chef Oven/Range Sealed Burner is Slipping

Sealed burner ranges the orifice is in the center of each burner, down inside(brass color). Open style burners the orifice should be under the lift off burner or in some case where the burner tube goes back to the control panel at the control knob. Almost all will be brass color. Oven orifices are at the end of the burner tube where the gas would come into the burner. Air adjustments are usually right near the orifices. A small sliding window with 1 screw holding the adjustment in place.

That stove has sealed burners. It is not uncommon for folks to try and raise the top and when they do they break the lines on the front to the front sealed burners. To lift the top ya must twist each burner a quarter turn then get it out far enough to remove the screws which hold the burner tubing in place. Once them screws is removed you can lift and look for leaks. I have also seen places where the oven tubing bends get a small leak down to the oven valve. One more thang to look for is a dim ignitor. if it is dim and weak it might be allowing a tiny amount of gas to come out before ignition. Bubble test for leaks you must!!

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It is common for mice to get into the oven box insulation and nest. I had this problem before and its not likely you'll be able to get rid of the odor without replacing the insulation. Another issue is any fecal matter the mice leave behind. This can become a health hazard (expecially in an appliance that you use to prepare food). I would recommend replacing the insulation. If the model oven is correct, the insulation can be purchased for around $20 at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number will depend upon your COMPLETE model number (located on a nameplate around the oven door opening, or lower drawer opening (if equipped). On some models, the model number will appear on the back of the operator console. The first three sites on the list include exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly indentifying any parts you may need. The insulation for the Magic Chef 31000 series is listed under the "Body" parts list.


To replace the insulation on MOST ranges, all you should have to do is lift the range top to access the oven box. The top on most ranges can be lifted by removing a series of screws that are usually holding it secure under the bottom of the front edge. You will need to open the oven door to see them. CAUTION: Do not lean on the oven door as this may cause damage to the door hinges and springs.

On the Magic Chef 31000 series, it appears that you will need to remove the burner control knobs, followed by screws holding the burner control control panel in place. You should also remove all the orifice covers and burner grates from the top of the range. Once the burner control is removed, remove the top panel, followed by the burner box top panel. The insulation will be wrapped around the oven box. It should just lift out. Depending on the potential infestation, you may want to wear a dust mask and use a vaccum to **** up any loose debris. CAUTION: Turn off the gas supply BEFORE attempting any repairs - if this is a gas range.

If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Their are 2 types of ranges. Ones with sealed burners and ones that do not have sealed burners. The sealed burner ranges must have a kit to replace the orifices. The none seal burner models are simply called crank down and flip models. That means you flip the screw on top of the regulator to where it reads LP. and then you tighten down the spuds on the top burners and the oven valve and then you adjust the air shutters.

Note: Some stoves with sealed burners cannot be converted to LP. The model number you posted is not a correct model number.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Do you have your owner's manual? It will tell you how to convert it to propane and what size orifices to use with each burner. Not all the burners are the same size, so you will need this info in order to install the right size orifices. The data plate on the oven, which is usually behind the bottom pull out drawer, will tell you what the BTU rating is for each stovetop and oven/broiler burner. If you don't have the owner's manual, reply back with the exact model # you have (it's listed on the data plate too) and I'll look it up for you. You will need a small nut driver tool to change the orifices. As soon as you provide more info, I'll try to help you further. Douglas

First unplug for a couple of minutes to reset the control. If that doesn't work you need a new control.

Chip the grout line out.....easy with screw driver....Magic Chef is still made ...Maytag...Make your own deal with suppliers........

Hi, If the oven has a standing pilot too, Open the bottom door and locate the main burner. Follow the burner toward the rear of the oven and there will be a flame switch attatched to the burner. Hold the flame near the flame switch and the gas should ignite.
Some model do not have a standing pilot in the oven. Please get me your model number off the label located around the opening of the lower door so I can look this up and instruct you better.

Vic

The vent (shutter) allowing air to mix with the gas has shut. Access the burner with the oven off, of course, and look for the shutter (a sliding 'door'). It usually has one screw holding it n place and an elongated slot to permit adjustment. It may also turn. Since your burner is producing soot, you need to open the shutter more. Loosen the screw and slide the shutter open more. Turn the oven on and look for a nice blue flame, and one that doesn't run too far over the burner. Keeping in mind that everything there will be hot when the burner is on, and also for a long time after it is off, you can use a long-bladed screwdriver to push the shutter back and forth to get the flame you are looking for. If the screw is loose, a gentle tap will be enough. When you are see that optimum blue flame and you are satisfied, let the oven cool off for an hour or so, and final tighten the screw--making sure you haven't moved the shutter much when tightening. If this doesn't work you have a bigger problem and need to call a service person. Your local gas company sometimes will direct you to a person.

STOP USING THE OVEN IMMEDIATELY!!! You are not getting enough air to the burners to burn all the fuel. Not only will you have an explosion hazard, you'll have a carbon monoxide hazard either of which will KILL YOU. Read all of the info below before you begin.

You need to clean all the burners and inlets thoroughly. You probably used the oven for a lot of broiling of meats or it is quite old. The deposits are clogging the tubes which gauge the amount of air entering the burners or the burner holes themselves. The burner tubes are generally removable by removing one screw and giggling the units clear. Before taking anything apart, note carefully the positions of any mix plates and scribe small marks between the two surfaces. Use a heavy duty cleaner or WD-40 to loosen grime. Don't use abrasives like Comet. Then wash in mild detergent with hot water and dry. Be sure all burner openings are clear. After assembly, note the color of the flames. They should be about 90% blue along their length from the burner head. If they are not, you didn't finish the job cleanly or you have another problem. If the burners are old, rusty or have irregularly shaped flame holes, replace them.