Can someone tell me what the white insulated wire that runs from the top of the fan into the fan motor is. It has a thin wire in the center of the insulation. Mine is torn. Can I easily replace this? Is it fixable? If it runs the remote, can I wire cap it off? I would appreiciate any help. Thanks Tom
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A PL-190B ceiling fan module is is a Wattage Limiter rated at 190W maximum. It is about 1" square and has a red, blue and white factory wired into the fan's light circuit in most cases. The AC power to the lights is run through the module to "ensure" no one puts more than 190W (about 2 amps)of light bulbs through the circuit for "safety" reasons. So four 60w bulbs and some CFLs will trip the module. These wattage limiters are sometimes feeding the fan motor in addition to the lights, however the units I have seen just control the "blue wire" going to the lights.
Some suggest simply cutting it out and splice the blue and red wires (or blue and blue) that are left in the fan after removing out the module. If the module has two whites, wirenut them together separately. Otherwise just insulate or cap the single white.
At that point your ceiling fan and lights are like all others made before 2005 and depend on the circuit breaker and you to only use four 40w bulbs max in the fan. As indicated, some low wattage CFLs will also trip the module. Some internet sources have the PL-190B available for around $15.
If your Casablanca Fan (1928D) Table Fan has stopped working completely, or stopped in the middle of oscillating, it might be the internal AC wire that runs up the middle of the fan base, that is broken internally. First, make sure the fan is not plugged in. You have to take the whole fan apart from the front. Check for continuity on the white and black wires that run to the motor. You may have to pierce the black and white wires with a pin to check them, because they are wired directly into the motor. These two wires have a black jacket covering them that can be pulled off if you find an open wire. Either one of these wires can break internally because of the back and forth movement. Cut the wires close as necessary to the motor to make the splice. Solder and use heat shrink insulation and route the new wire back down through the base and splice them where the original wires were. I used a piece of electrical cord with white and black conductors that was cut off an appliance that was dead. It was the same size as the original so it fit well. Please note, this repair requires electrical and mechanical knowledge. You have to take the whole fan apart to do this repair.
If we're talking about a ceiling fan then the issue is with the wiring. You should have 3 wires coming off the fan. Two of them are your power wires that go to the fan motor, and the other to the light fixture. Both of these wires (usually black and blue) will be twisted together and "typically" connect to the black wire in the ceiling. Then the neutral white wire will connect to the neutral white wire in the ceiling. Then your green earth ground wire connects to the ceiling box, or to any non-insulated copper ground wires.
The only other connection is the single plug that connects the pull cord switches to the fan motor itself. If that wasn't connected correctly the fan motor wouldn't work either. I'm going to bet the issue is in the ceiling box.
It sound like a common problem inside of one of your twist on connectors a wire is not making contact or has broken. The purple wire if grounded on one end is just a ground for the motor housing it is extra insurance to make sure you are protected from a short. It normally goes to the neutral wires. (neutral wires should be bare copper or white) Be causiouse elect kills.
you can test the light switch by temporarily hooking up the light bulb to where the fan normally goes ....the bulb will only work on the highest speed setting but can prove if the switch is bad or not . turn power off before woking in there ... if you know someone with a volt meter then they could quickly test the switch for you .. they can also test the motor for continuity .. .. most of the time the trouble is simply bad connections inside the wire nuts ... like insulation not skinned properly or wire not in the wire nut properly ..you can remove and inspect each connection (power off of course) ... sometimes there is a seperate power line for the fan and light ... so they can be independently controlled externally ... thats not needed when the pull chains are the only off on method ...
No. As you were assembling the wire from the fan motor to the house wiring, there should have been two wires labled. One would have been labeled "FAN" and the other "LIGHT". To properly attach the wires, (be sure the power is off) twist the thin labeled black (FAN) and blue (LIGHT) wires together. Now attach those two twisted wires to the black house wiring with one of the supplied wiring cap. Finally attach the thin white wire to the white house wire with supplied wiring cap. Your fan is now ready for operation. If you had performed all these steps when you first assembled the fan, then the thin black wire going to the fan has come loose. Should your ceiling fan still not run after all that, then it's time to return it where you bought it because either the pull chain switch is defective or the manufacturer produced a defective piece of merchandise. If you found any of my suggestions to be helpfull, please rate my solution. Thanks D. Lange
As you were assembling the wire from the fan motor to the house wiring, there should have been two wires labled. One would have been labeled "FAN" and the other "LIGHT". To properly attach the wires, (be sure the power is off) twist the thin labeled black (FAN) and blue (LIGHT) wires together. Now attach those two twisted wires to the black house wiring with one of the supplied wiring cap. Finally attach the thin white wire to the white house wire with supplied wiring cap. Your fan is now ready for operation. If you had performed all these steps when you first assembled the fan, then the thin black wire going to the fan has come loose. Should your ceiling fan still not run after all that, then it's time to return it where you bought it because either the pull chain switch is defective or the manufacturer produced a defective piece of merchandise. If you found any of my suggestions to be helpfull, please rate my solution. Thanks D. Lange
There are four wires comming out from a ceiling fan. Check it. Isolate it to get four terminals. Check for continuty. In fact, they are pairs of coil inside the fan. As there are two coils inside the fan, you have two pairs of termials. After indetifying each pair, connect one pair directly to supply. Another pair is to be connected in series with a capcitor provided in your fan. After connection in seris, you will again have two terminals not connected to any point. Again connect it to supply (ie. LT supply viz 230 volts or 110 volts as per specification of fan). The fan will run. Now you have to check speed and proper direction of running. If speed is less, then only interchnage the coil connected with capacitor. If direction of running is opposite, interchange terminals of any one of the coil with supply. Write back me againg if you get any problem/confusion
Use caution when dealing with AC, it can be deadly.
The black wire by accepted standards is the 'hot' wire and will measure (when active) 110-125 volts (in the US) to ground or the white neutral wire in a normal household system.
The white wire may have a couple of volts when measured to an earth ground or any green (or green-yellow) wire which is (by standards) connected to earth ground, often via plumbing pipes in some homes, or a visible or buried grounding rod driven several feet into the earth.
The black (hot) wire is the one customarily 'switched.'
I would highly recommend you have a qualified electrician reconnect the strayed wires to protect yourself and the fan.