Question about GE LightTouch GSC23LSRSS Side by Side Refrigerator
More than likely, your water line is freezing up in the door. You can remove all of the ice cubes and lower the freezer temp to about 3. Leave the freezer door open for about 5 minutes or so and if this does not work, leave the door open a little longer. Also, disconnect the water line at the base of the freezer door, near the floor, and press the dispenser lever. If you have water there, you most likely have a frozen line in the door. Changing the water filter often will help but it is not the answer and is can get quite expensive. By the way, Make sure to hold the dispenser lever forward for at least a couple of minutes each time you test for water flow. If you do not get water at the connector at the base of the door after you have disconnected the line, you have a problem with the valve in the back of the refrigerator.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
I bought a brand new smartwater replacement filter and after a very short time, my water stopped coming through the door.. took out the new replacement filter and inserted a brand new one .. problem solved.. apparently some of the g.e. smartwater filter replacement cartridges don't have the high enough two plastic inserts which are attached to them at the top of the filter when you screw them on... if you have taken your cartridge in and out a few times, i think it wears down the plastic so it doesn't fit properly and won't put up whatever it is supposed to push up to make the water come through.. I personally think this is a g.e. problem with the replacement filters...
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
I can tell you how to find the problem , but , it is a little work .
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , and , when to cycle off due to temp satisfied .
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
I have this model also for just over 3 years and it developed the same problem. The issue turned out to be the unit was in defrost mode too long caused by a failing control circuit board (found in the back under a panel cover). The board controls all refrig functions. This was replaced and the unit works normally now. The board costs around $200 plus the service call ... still cheaper than a new refig.
Posted on Apr 29, 2010
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