Could be bad main wash pump motor, bad capacitor on said motor, or broken or jamed pump impeller. You will need to remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly to get access to the pump impeller to see if it is jammed or broken. If you can turn the motor shaft but the motor just hums then the motor of motor start capacitor is gone. You can order the motor with start capacitor and impeller for around $130. Check for 120v at the motor terminals prior to replacing motor/pump assembly to confirm, 120v at motor would but motor not turning equals bad motor and or capacitor.
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Is it draining out the water?? Dishwashers fill, spray, and drain more than several times during a cycle. After starting a cycle, let the unit fill, start spraying, and then cancel the cycle--listen for the drain pump activating and pumping out the water. If water is not being drained properly(within a certain time limit), the unit will error code out and stop. Also, make sure the filter is clear--if it gets clogged with "muck", enough water won't be sprayed onto the dishes properly, the pump will require too much energy to try to pump water, the control will sense this and shut down the unit to protect it.
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating. --------- The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed .You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution
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I don't know that a dishwater cleaner will solve your problem. More than likely the pump is no onger functioning which is located on the bottom of the unit. When the dishwasher goes into the discharge cycle does it make a humming sound or does it do nothing. All pumps make sound when discharging the water from the basin. If there is no sound present then the pump is not functioning........if the pump is making a humming sound then it is locked up. Let me know please thanks.
Food or debris could be blocking the drain line before the water pump or after. So unplug the unit or cut the power to it then begin working on the washer. You will need a pliers or medium size channel locks to take the hose clamps off. Make sure the line is clear from the unit to the water pump. Then check the pump over carefully. Then the line from to the discharge area. This should solve the problem.
Open the dishwasher, remove the bottom rack, then remove the thumb nut in the middle of the unit that secures the lower wash arm and housing. Look for debris and clear any you find. Try again. If no joy, you will have to repeat the first step and also remove the wash pump upper housing that is secured with torx head screws. Same thing after you remove it - look for debris in the impeller area and remove it.
If you have to remove the wash impeller, you will need a 1" offset box wrench and as I recall a 1/4" socket. The 1" offset box wrench is needed to keep the impeller from turning while you remove the center nut. You will also need to remove the upper discharge line retainer clip to get that out of your way. Inspect the impeller for any debris and especially cracks or missing blades. If the impeller is damaged it will need to be replaced.
While you have this thing apart, check the lower wash arm and upper wash arm discharge pipe assembling for any obstructions.
I am assuming the motor runs ok and the timing cycles seem normal.
you may have a defective pressure switch, this is located on the back of the well, access from the rear of the unit. It black with an orange sticker, from the rear it is slightly to the right of the well, but not as far round as the drain pump.