Question about ViewSonic VX1932wm Monitor
The front light goes amber like i is not getting a video signal for the computer. When put the old monitor on it works fine.
Your power/inverter board needs to be overhauled.
Your capacitors on the board are probably burned out.
If you open it up and send me a picture , I may be able to tell you if they are or aren't.
There is also a chance a transistor has gone bad on the board.
I repair many viewsonic boards on ebay
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
Bad caps in the power supply, common problems. See examples here: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Viewsonic%20V912B/
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
It can be one of thses: bad caps (bulging top or bottom seal) in the power supply, bad backlight inverter circuits, bad lamps. You need to open it up and lool for bad caps first, then measure the voltages across the filter caps, you should have 5vdc and 12~18vdc (there are two power supplies: 5vdc for logic, 12~18vdc for backlights citcuits) Post back what you find so we can guide you further, see example of failed VIEWSONIC monitors due to bad caps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Posted on Jan 25, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you very much!That solved my problem.Keep up this good work, guys!"
I had the exact same problem. It's a bad capacitor on your power board. It's most likely the 1000uF 25v one towards the center of the board. I noticed it on mine because the top of the capacitor was pushed out more than usual and it has some residue, which are signs of a burnt out/bad capacitor. (WARNING: There is a risk of electric shock when opening the power supply unit. Leave the unit unplugged for at least a few hours before working on it. Proceed at own risk!) Read on for a fix:
1. In the back, remove the stand screw covers (x2) to access and remove the stand screws (x4).
2. There will be a single screw under where the stand was attached on the screen. Remove it.
The LCD/unit is sandwiched between the thin faceplate and back cover, which are held together by several clips:
3. Carefully pry and remove the faceplate with a flathead screwdriver or other flat tool.
4. There will be 2 screws holding the button circuit board in place. Remove the screws, unplug the small cable from the board, and remove the board.
5. There are a few clips towards the bottom that hold the back panel onto the LCD frame. Pick at those until you completely remove the LCD unit.
6. Remove the 4 side screws holding the LCD panel to the frame.
7. Carefully disconnect the 2 sets of wires and the single ribbon cable from the LCD panel, taking note of their direction.
8. Remove the 4 screws holding the large power control board in place, and disconnect the 2 cables connected to it (the smaller cable disconnects from the power control board, while the larger one disconnects from the other end).
9. Locate the faulty capacitor and take note of its direction/polarity (+ and -). Use a powerful soldering iron to remove it from the board. I say 'powerful' because I could not get the factory solder to melt with my Weller at full 850 degrees. If you can't get it unsoldered, you can CAREFULLY pry it off with some pliers. If the connectors remain attached on the board, pry them off as well.
10. Put in the new capacitor ($1.73 at Radio Shack), taking care not to bend or break the leads and taking note of its polarity. Trim the excess lead wire off and carefully solder into place.
To finish, follow steps in reverse 8 through 1. Plug it in and test. If all is good, it should remain on. You might hear a tiny high-pitched sound when there is no signal or screen is idle. This happens with mine, but should be no cause for concern.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Questions? Email me: email@example.com
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
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