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remove bad studs with stud extractor and replace with new ones ?? or maybe normal bolts ?? (if in engine housing )
or in a bind ive even rethreaded them to fine thread (assuming course was old thread) with a die and used std fine nuts on them as well .
if studs go in plastic case/frame then case needs to be disassembled and then studs press out other direction
That's an unusual problem, usually the opposite happens. After making sure the chain brake is off, loosen the two nuts that hold the bar. Be sure to hold the bar up when adjusting the tensioner screw and adjust until the chain is just snug, but not too tight. While still holding the bar up, tighten the two nuts firmly. Check to see that the chain can move freely by hand. Then start the saw and run the chain at speed with something in front of the nose to check for adequate lubrication. You should note a slight fine spray of oil on the object in front of the nose of the bar. Inadequate lubrication, a chain that is binding on the bar, or an overly tight chain can cause the bar to heat up and expand, further tightening the chain. A properly adjusted Stihl saw will use almost all of the chain oil in the reservoir for every tank of gas. Too much oil is better than too little. The oil feed may have to be adjusted for operating in temperature extremes. If operating in very hot conditions, be sure that the saw has not run out of chain oil. The oil feeds faster when hot.
Assuming you have the right length chain and its not just running out of adjustment, it would then probably be a stripped or snapped chain adjuster. Can be coursed when the bar nuts aren't dun up before starting to cut, the force of the chain saw will snap an adjuster no problems. If its striped it might smear like its adjusting in but when it gets to a point it will just stop
Depends on the chainsaw. On most Stihl saws there is a screw between the two bar locking bolts that you turn clockwise to tighten the chain. On other saws the screw is in front of the housing that the bar and chain come out of and face into the housing, parallel to the bar. Clockwise still tightens the chain.
In both cases you have to loosen the nuts on the guide bar studs and then adjust the tension adjustment screw.
For more info go to the manufacturer's web site and download the owners manual.
If you take the bolts off the studs that the bar sits over, the ones you loosen to tighten the chain, you can then take off the housing over the chain sprocket. Loosen the chain adjusting screw, Pull the bar and chain off of the saw. The oil discharge hole is behind a plate on the back side of the bar about where the studs for the bar are. There is a small hole in the bar that the oil is injected into. This needs to be kept clean for the chain oiler to work properly.
At our dealership we replace the Bar studs with Heli-Coil and locktite for $20.
NOTE: Remove the old stud by double-nutting and screwing out of the case and marking the end that came out. Take it with you to NAPA and get the correct Heli-Coil size and a small tube of BLUE Loctite. (Might be cheaper to let the Stihl dealer do it)
Hope this helps!
only had one 20 years ago they were right hand nut side an left hand into block//used the two lock nuts tightened together to pull studs//like over tightening the lock nuts clockwise breaks stud threads loose ..install new same