Hello the fuse is always breaking i replaced the darlington power transistors( motorla)tip 142 and tip 147 (where shorted)by tip142 and 147(italian made )the amp worked for 10 min (the transistors where to hot )and shorted again ,then i replaced them with
( St )tip 35cand tip 36c this time the amp worked for 15 min can someone help with this? i checked all the resistors can u help me plz by giving me the exact equivalent transistor for the tip 142 and 143? what do you think the problem is?
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Hi,If your blowing fuses then the problem is most likely to be faulty bridge rectifier or darlington output transistors.All readily available and not too expensive.Circuit diagram on Fender site or net easily found.Thanks Fender good customer service.
On page 11 is the power supply. The TIP31 (T1) is the regulator for the +15 volt rail. The TIP31 is connected as a Darlington with a BC846 (shown on the schematic as "846"). This is a surface mounted tiny transistor.
NOTE: This regulator is NOT a voltage regulator but is actually an ACTIVE ripple filter consisting of the 2.2K resistor (R6) bypassed by the capacitor C4 (100mfd/25v). R8 (120 ohm) serves as a parasitic suppressor and base surge current limiter for the BC846 transistor (T4).
A few thoughts on this. With the transistors, if these are a darlington style of transistor, it might show a short on a good transistor. The USB "transistor" is a voltage regulator, 12v to 5volts dc. With the inverter input, some inverters use a diode in the input to protect against connecting the inverter by reversed leads. This diode might be shorted and be causing your problem. If it comes to changing the transistors, it might be cheaper in the long run to buy a new inverter. The transistors might be problematic and might not be the only thing problematic. Experience here talking!
check fuse in power cord if using in car adapter. unscrew the silver ring at the tip of the cigarette plug DO NOT ALLOW THE SPRING TO SHOOT OUT WITH THE SILVER CONTACT PIECE INSIDE! remove the spring and contact piece then remove the fuse, look to see if it is scorched, you will either see black soot on the glass or a break in the wire that runs through the glass tube. Hold it up to the light. See if you can tell where the brreak is. Sometimes the break is at the verry top and you cant see so just replace the fuse with a new one form the hardware store, ETC. replace fuse spring contact tip and retainer ring then plug in and try again.
Almost always, your described problem indicates a blown fuse inside the DVD/VCR combo. Exact location would depend on the model and regional version. What is common to all is that it would be immediately after the power cord as it enters the combo unit.
Some ideas to further guide you if the fuse is glass tube type:
if the break of the fusible wire is clean, then it would be relatively safe to simply replace;
if however, the glass tube is darkened with burnt marks, then there would be some other components defective such as the regulator transistor and/or filter capacitor.
Maybe a fuse in amplifier section is blown out already,caused by busted four darlington transistor or if this amplifier use a STK IC. This is the common problem of the amplifier,try to check this if ever a defected then replaced it with a identical rating.
Hi there, by the sounds of it you could have faulty fuses, Whether its inside the console itself or inside the Power adaptor its Uncertain. Before opening up Your PS3 i would suggest Checking the fuse in the power adaptor to make sure that is not fried. if it isnt. then it must be something to do with the power input to your PS3 Device. it could be either the Fuse or The transistors on the Power input Circuit. When you Pop open your PS3, Go straight to the back-end where the power input is located, and see if any of the fuses or transistors look fried, if they are. then that is where your fault lies !