Question about Dacor ECD230 Epicure Electric Double Oven

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Need wiring diagram or info for Dacor CPO230

As I was removing the control panel for repair (now completed), two wires lifted off the back of plug J4 on the back of the center control module. I need to find wiring details for that plug so I can reconnect the wires.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Dacor CPO230, can't get lock to engage for self

For some reason the oven thinks you have a door that is not shut all of the way. Check the locking slot to make sure that there are no obstructions. Make sure that you are only doing one oven at a time, and not trying to cook in the other. Make sure you have no racks in the oven. Try pushing lightly on the door when the lock engages. For some reason your lock isn't engaging fully and that's why door is flashing. Good Luck
Below is from the owners manual for your oven.

Oven does not self-clean Door not shut tight Check for obstructions. Close door tightly
Oven set for delay timed cleaning Oven will start to self-clean at preset time.
Press CANCEL/SECURE to return to
normal operation
Double ovens only: Other oven is on. Turn off other oven.

Posted on May 10, 2009

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SOURCE: How to remove timer CPO230

Use chisel and hammer.

Posted on Aug 12, 2012

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1 Answer

MEW 7627A double ovens keep cutting out with a click and then turns itself back on again. The control panel has been replaced and it is still doing the same thing


Hello Sheryl;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

If your unit is new it should still be under warrantee for one year.

Who replaced the control board was it a service company? You should have a 90 day warrantee on the work, which did not work.

Anyway, you may have a bad; "Infinite Switch".
An infinite switch allows the user to set the heat from low to high and everywhere in between, hence the name "Infinite." This switch differs from a "Low-Medium-High" switch, which provides only three heat settings. The infinite switch uses a bimetal switch and physically moves through the process of heating and cooling, causing the main switch contacts to open and close and controlling the power applied to the heating elements.Typically, when an infinite switch malfunctions, the surface element will not heat, or it will remain on high in every position.
  1. Before repairs or testing can begin, you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!.
  2. Next, depending on your appliance type/model, access the infinite switch using one of the following methods:
    1. For most standard models, remove the back panel.
    2. On models with front-mounted controls, the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws and tilt the control panel, being careful not to let the wires disengage from the components.
    3. For models with a removable backsplash, simply lift the backsplash, rest it on the cooktop and remove the screws to access the components.
    4. If you are working on an eye-level range or wall oven, remove the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be located under the front of the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, tilt the control panel towards you.
    5. Some models will require that you remove the rear panel and front panel before work can begin.
    6. If the front control panel is glass, remove the screws securing the trim that holds the glass in place.

Test for continuity between the switch contacts:
  1. Remove all wires from the switch terminals. (Remember to label them!)
  2. Set the infinite switch on high and place your ohmmeter on the L2, H2, P and H1 terminals to check for continuity.
    1. If there is no continuity between L1 and H1 or between L2 and H2, the infinite switch is defective.
    2. If there is no continuity between P and H1, the indicator light circuit is defective.
  3. Remove the infinite switch by removing the screws or nuts that hold it in place and install a new infinite switch by following the disassembly instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals.

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Feb 16, 2015 | Ovens Ovens

1 Answer

I can not get the oven to come on. It is pluged in and the stove top works. The oven runs off electric and the top is both. No one can fix it and the oven does not heat up at all.


Most of the time, whn this problem occurs on ovens, it is mainly caused by the ovens thermostat. Run a test on the oven thermostat and replace it if it is faulty.
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this was helpful. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

Thermostat light flashing and none of the oven functions will work (fan, grill, heat etc)


An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
  4. To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  5. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  6. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedure, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this was helpful.Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2011 | Ovens

2 Answers

My oven will not warm up. It will just stay at 100 degrees. The gas stove works fine but the oven will not warm up to the desired heat. It worked fine 2 days ago, any suggestions.


My dear friend, i suspect the oven thermostat to be responsible for this. It is a switch that opens when the temperature of a oven is set. Therefore it is bad and cannot work according to the temperature it is set to. The thermostat is located at the control panel where a liquid filled temperature sensor bulb which senses and maintains the temperature of the oven by turning it on and off at every cycle.
First You have to test the thermostat before replacing it. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution! Since i do not know the exact maytag oven type, here is the general process for all types of oven.
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  3. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped you. Thank you for using fixya.

Jan 21, 2011 | Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

Oven does not work and the elements are good no f codes and the probe was change?


Hello there:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
    1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
    2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
    3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
    4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
    5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


  3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

    Adjusting the thermostat:

  4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


  5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.


  6. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.


  7. To remove the thermostat:
    1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
    2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  8. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.

Jan 05, 2011 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Dont know how to get to the ignitor to remove it . its a kenmore gas stove the broiler works but the the oven dose not get hot on bake..


the bottom of oven has a removable cover . two screws in the back l & R then lift out the cover from the back side and the burner flame spreader in under that cover . Remove one sometimes two nuts form the flame spreader and in the center on the back of the burner is the ignitor . remove the two phillips screws and lift out the ignitor. make sure the wire's are disconected in back . reverse this prorcess and you have completed the instalation .. mm

Jul 11, 2010 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

E1-f2 display for kenmore oven


Try this first! The control panel has a flat ribbon cable that plugs into the relay module. The ribbon is actually two ribbons pressed together. The plastic insulation has a defect, and the leads between the two ribbons cross. You can seperate them easily by lifting them apart. Place a piece of paper between them to act as an insulator. This should solve your problem. If that does not work, repalce the defective parts yourself. You can do it for about 30% of what a repair company would charge. it's either got to be 1. A fuse 2. Control panel 3. Relay panel. Good luck!!!

Oct 19, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

F 7 appeared on screen and it is beeping and won't turn off


Try this first! The control panel has a flat ribbon cable that plugs into the relay module. The ribbon is actually two ribbons pressed together. The plastic insulation has a defect, and the leads between the two ribbons cross. You can seperate them easily by lifting them apart. Place a piece of paper between them to act as an insulator. This should solve your problem. If that does not work, repalce the defective parts yourself. You can do it for about 30% of what a repair company would charge. it's either got to be 1. A fuse 2. Control panel 3. Relay panel. Good luck!!!

Oct 13, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

2 Answers

Error code f7 on Kenmore wall oven 911.41165791


Try this first!
The control panel has a flat ribbon cable that plugs into the relay module. The ribbon is actually two ribbons pressed together. The plastic insulation has a defect, and the leads between the two ribbons cross. You can seperate them easily by lifting them apart. Place a piece of paper between them to act as an insulator. This should solve your problem. If that does not work, repalce the defective parts yourself. You can do it for about 30% of what a repair company would charge. it's either got to be 1. Control panel 2. Relay panel. Good luck!!!

Apr 07, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Electrical fault on SE250Xuk


It may be something as simple as a crossed or frayed wire. This does not necessarily mean major repairs. Since it is electric, UNPLUG the oven from the wall. Then, take the burner rings out and lift the stove top. You should be able to lift it from the front edge, since it is hinged at the back.
Check the wires under the burner. If these wires are in good shape and the connections are solid, move the stove out from the wall. Remove the back sheet metal panel completely.
Once again, check the wires running the entire length. Make sure all wires running from the knob console to the rest of the oven are not frayed or missing the insulation coating and that the connections are complete and not loose.
If you find frays, some electrical tape should fix it just fine. Loose connections can usually be crimped with a pliers, or if it's a loose electrical connector type connection with a screw, you can remove the connector head and wrap bare wire around the screw, then tighten it down to secure.

If you find nothing wrong when you open it and inspect the wires, then it is possible it needs major repairs. If you are getting a burning smell from ANY electrical appliance, please leave it unplugged until you get it fixed. Nobody likes a house fire in the middle of the night.

Mar 03, 2009 | Smeg SE250XUK Stainless Steel Electric...

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