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Most machines offer a thermal device connected before the element, where, depends on the manufacturer and the vintage. I the system over heats and or is too wet, it will shut down the element before the element burns out.contact the manufacture, on the net, then click on support and request a pdf. manual of that machine.It shall direct you to the parts page. Then do as we all do, get out your volt ohm device and test the items.
There are a couple of things that you can check. FIRST go to the electrical box where the circuit breaker or fuse for the dryer is. Sometimes on half of the circuit breaker is tripped allowing the controls of the dryer to work, but not the heating element. Turn off the breaker and turn back on. Or replace the fusees. If this does not work, then you may have a loos wire or a burned out heating element. Sometimes there is a bad high temperature switch. Do the circuit breaker or fuse first. If the washer did not spin out the water well enough, the water can short the element to trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse.
It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE
Usually when an electric dryer runs but stops heating, the heating element has failed and needs replacing. I don't know if you are a do-it-yourself type, but you can get the model/make/serial information and obtain the correct element at your appliance parts store.
I hope this helps... Good luck.
It could be a circuit breaker, fuse, or electrical problem. Just because the motor runs doesnt mean it will heat.
You should check for power first.
Then unplug the dryer remove the lower front panel, two screws.
Mark and label any wire you remove so you know where they go!
in the back on the left is the heating element, check for burnt wires, take the element out and check for a broken wire on the back side also check all the thermostats, and electrical components to make sure they are good.
heating elements in dryers are almost the least likely cause of heating failure, they are solid and have no moving parts, more likely is the thermal cutout, an over temperature fuse that mounts on the element housing http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=219235 part 1233 is the part, and clicking diagram 3 on the left shows how to get to it
can be tested with any multimeter, zero resistance is good, infinity resistance - burned out
If you dryer is running but not heating then you may have one of the following problems.
Make sure you have 220-240 volts to the machine. If one leg of you breaker has kicked you will only be getting 110 volts this will cause the dryer to run and not heat. Simply kick the breaker off and back on to fix.
If you have enough voltage then you may have a bad thermostat, thermostats or heating element. I recommend you take your heating element off and look for broken lines.check continuity if possible. If the heater is good then go to the thermostats. Check continuity. Replace if you find a bad one. Good luck and I hope this helped. email@example.com