How to replace the Terminal Cover on top of the Extension Wand
I had a bad connection between the Wire Harness on the handle and the Terminal Cover on the Extension Wand. I replaced the wire harness, the the vacuum runs great. However, I bought the terminal cover because one of the contact pins looks "rusty" and I don't want to cause another poor connection. Will you please provide instructions for the removal of the Terminal Cover? I've played around with this enough to know that I may start to break something if I apply pressure in the wrong places.
Re: How to replace the Terminal Cover on top of the...
I saw this in another FixYa post
it tells midway down how to get access to the wand fuse (which has the two-prong terminals)
Comment posted on Feb 09, 20082bubbles
ok here we go.. fine a small file that will fit the holes at the bottom
of the wand and break the file so that the flat end fit into the wand.
please make sure the wand is not plug in to anything. now put it into
the hole and try to clean it out gently not too hard or you will damage
the contacts. after that grab a needle nose pilers and very gently
press the contacts. not a lot or it won't fit back into the power-mate.
ok now for the top of the wand. if you look at the wand where the
button is to extent the wand. on each side you will see a small clip.
with a small flat head screw driver push into the clip at the point
closer to the wand tube. it will pop out. make sure to check the clip
to see how to put it back in. after both clips are out you will notice
a that the clips left a gap. the back part of the wand or cover will
now slip off. push it toward the gap. then up. after removing the
cover. you will see a ribbon strip which is attached to the prongs or
fuse .you can remove the fuse and then clean the contacts. please be
careful. once this is done you then put it all together and try it out.
the fuse is a part that you can buy at sears if you have to. let me
know if this helps you out. if it seems like too much just take it to
sears and ask them to replace the wand fuse for you instead of
replacing the whole wand. hope this helps .
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One wire of the old harness is connected to the hose and another wire is connected to the switch. Just pull wires and female plug that is attached to the plastic tube pray both side with flat scewdriver
The wire schematics in the handle assembly has four total wires. Two from the hose and two from the Receptacle Nozzle. Take one wire from the hose and one wire from the receptacle and connect together. Take the second wire from the hose and connect to the Switch Handle PN2E PN2. Take the second wire from the receptacle and connect to the other switch terminal. If you need more details, you can download the schematics at Rainbow Vacuum Schematics or you can call us at 800-523-0510.
I cannot find a wiring diagram from where I am located right now, but I do know that the black wire coming from the power cord goes to the top side of the motor when you have it laying upside down with the cover off, and it will go to the tab towards the back of the vacuum. Sometimes they put a black dot beside the tab and if that is there you put your wires from the power cord on those. You will also have two wires coming from your light bar in front and the white wire will usually have a piggy-back terminal that your white wire from the power cord attaches to as well. If there are no black dots beside the terminal tabs the white wires will connect to the bottom terminal on the opposite side from the black power cord wire. It will usually be on the lower side of the motor as well. The black wire from the light bar will go on the remaining terminal tab as there is usually only three tabs on the motor. I will check back later this week to see if this has helped you and if not I should be able to get a diagram this weekend.
I had the same problem after not paying attention to the connections when replacing my motor. I spent days searching for information and only found several non-answers with small photos that no one can read.I contacted Oreck for wiring information. They explicitly stated that they can't provide any wiring information for safety and liability reasons.
I found the Ametek schematic which shows the LINE and TAP locations on the motor.
Note: I have a 2600HH XL with 2 headlights.
Connect as follows:
3A, LINE: White lead w/piggy back terminal from light harness #1 & white lead from the power harness to the piggy back terminal 2A, TAP: Black lead from light harness #1 3B, LINE: White lead w/piggy back terminal from light harness #2 & black lead from the power harness 2B, TAP: Black lead from light harness #2
Remove the wand from the telescoping pole, and look at the two holes in the wand where the electrical connection is made between the wand and the pole. You may see corrosion, which will cause the connection to be flaky and the power assist to surge on and off.
In any case, a good bet is that the wire harness in the wand needs replacing. It's about $15. (P/N KC37GBZTZV06) You'll have to take the wand apart - 3 screws and some judicious prying - to replace it.
The electrical terminal at the top of the extension wand may be loose or corroded. Unplug the vacuum and remove the wand from the hose assembly. Look at the 2 prongs and clean off any corrosion using a a Q-tip or scrape with a screwdiver if it's more persistent. After cleaning reconnect the wand to the hose and try it again. If the prongs are not corroded, they might be loose instead or they might not be aligned properly. If this is the case then bending the prongs very slightly may help realign them. The part that may be giving you the trouble is called the terminal cover (PN 8191782). It costs about $10 but the problem is knowing the procedure to actually replace the part. CAN ANYONE EXPLAIN HOW TO OPEN UP THE EXTENSION WAND TO REPLACE THE TERMINAL COVER ??
I went ahead and ordered a switch and wire harness from Sears Parts online(using repair parts list that came with vacuum cleaner) which cost me about $45.00 including shipping. After receiving the parts I first tried replacing the switch and no difference. Then I changed the wire harness that contains the receptacle where the plug from the extension wand plugs in. Sure enough, that solved the problem! Apparently the plug receptacle was worn out causing the short. It took some effort to get the Handle Assembly apart and then back together; however, I did it and broke nothing! I am so stoked as I know I probably saved at least $100.00 by doing this myself!! And if I were to send the switch back, my cost would only be about $30.00!
It is amazing what a person can do when using the parts list that came with the appliance and the internet to order parts!!!!
The extension wands are defective and have trouble with their plug connectors on each end. The power head has a reset button on top right but no lights mean no power which means the wand isn't connecting the power to anything.
Sears has a new replacement -- too bad it isn't recalled so you could get it for free ($106.59 + tax + shipping). 2nd sweeper -- same problem.
1st sweeper: I just took needlenose pliers and pulled connectors out a little further (Too bad I can't seem to make the 2nd sweeper work with this easily. It might be one of the connectors or the wiring harness inbetween with a break.) Can't buy the wiring harness for this or connectors, just the wand.
If anyone has a working wand you want to sell me email me at email@example.com. Thanks!
I had the same problem. Sears has replacement parts for mine (Model 11625813506) here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=11625813506&pop=flush
Rather than pay $10 for a new cover terminal (which I probably couldn't install myself anyway), $99 for a whole new wand, and possibly $108 for a whole new hose (ridiculous prices, btw), I took a small flat head screwdriver and scraped off the dirt/corrosion on the terminal pins. This didn't resolve my problem, but I noticed the connection between the extension wand and the "Power mate" hose handle was loose. The handle could wiggle/slide about 1/8" when connected to the wand, creating the loose connection. I used the screwdriver to bend the pins down slightly (in the direction away from the wand tube), to compensate for the loose connection. This worked like a charm, fixed the intermittent circuit contact completely, and was very easy to do. I'd highly recommend trying this, before doing anything more complicated.