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A 2.4 Kw inverter is serious equipment costing quite a lot of cash - rather too much cash to take a chance with. The very fact you have to ask how to fix it means you probably shouldn't touch it but should entrust the repair to a properly insured professional.
I suggest you check the literature provided or visit the manufacturer's website for advice, make whatever checks you can regarding external connections and wiring and then find a repairer.
Could be a shorted/failed diode in your alternator.
Don't how accessible it is in your van but if possible, use a meter (Chinese have made them affordable) across the battery terminals and quickly remove the heavy cable from the alternator and watch the meter reading.
If it is still falling quickly, the alternator is likely OK and something else is causing the drain.
Most Digital Multimeters have a separate 10 Ampere range via a separate, marked jack; the black lead stays put, the red lead goes to the 10A jack.
Remove the negative battery cable, connect the black lead to the battery terminal, quickly touch the red lead to the loosened battery clamp; this is normally protected by an internal fuse which may blow if the current is well above 10 amperes.
If it doesn't blow. attach the leads so you can start the next step.
This will be a systematic removal and replacement of each fuse, one at a time, until the current reading drops to a low value on the meter indication.
Milliamperes, not normally seen on this meter range, are normal.
If this works, you have narrowed down the culprit to a specific circuit and at that point, you are on your own.
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If the regulating circuits 78xx had blown it means that the input voltage which may be 18 - 35 VDC has been fed to all ICs. Some of them or all may have burnt. I did not understand which crystal did you change (the 2 - 20 MHz Quartz may be), but I think that rather the PIC was damaged.
If you have Oscilloscope on hand, check the oscillations on PICs clock.
When it is running,put a volt meter across battery terminals. You should see 13 + volts if alternator is working. Also put an ampere meter in series with a battery cable,key off, engine off, and you should see less than 40 to 50 Mili-Amps. If more,start pulling one fuse at a time,untill you find the circuit that is draining the battery
It's one of these things: The battery. Especially if you're still using the original one, which is now almost 10 years old. The charging system. Or the starter relay.
Even if your battery isn't 10 years old, if it has sat for more than a month or so without being charged, then it is toast. A fully charged 12 volt battery should show about 13.5 volts on a volt meter.
If the battery is good, then you will need to find out if the charging system is working. To do this, you will need an ampere meter capable of reading up to 10 amps. Start the engine and THEN hook the amp meter in series between the battery (either side) and the cable going to the battery. With the engine revved up to around 4,000 RPM, the charging system should be putting out at least 5~6 amps.
If it isn't the charging system or the battery, check for a bad starter relay (the thing that makes that buzzing sound when you hit the starter button). Perform this test by bridging across the two large cable connections on the top of the relay with a large screwdriver. If the starter spins when you do this, then you've got a faulty starter relay. If the starter doesn't spin, then you've got a bad starter motor or a bad electrical connection going to it.
Does the scooter actually lose power after the 3 leds show ?
If it is losing power then a suggest to try some other batteries to confirm dodgy batteries, check the terminal connections etc.
If it does not lose power then the volt meter is at fault, if you can check the voltage before riding then after it shows only 3 leds , if there is a big drop, check the charger first to make sure the batteries are getting fully charged.