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Re: goodman modle gmp100-3revb heater ignites and then...
If you are getting ignition but it does not stay on long, check for a bad ground off of the circuit board to the chassis cabinet. Look at the flame sensor and the connection on the circuit board. Is the plug making contact to the board or is there a bent tab? Is the flame spreading from one side of the burners to the others very quickly or slow? If quickly, it has to be either the sensor or the control board. If slowly, clean the burners and the flame spreader.
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Hi, this sounds as though your flame sensor is dirty causing the burners to shut down with in a few seconds. The flame sensor plugs into either your circuit board, or ignition module which ever you have. It has a long rather heavy wire, most are orange in color and look like a spark plug wire that lays along side of your automatic pilot. Some are made of porcelain with a metal tip on them that is in the pilot flame. This is what needs to be cleaned. Use a fine piece of sanding cloth or better yet, steel wool. Make it shine. Now try it. If it still shuts down, something else is locking out the module. Get back to me on this, just post a comment for me and I will check in on you. Please rate me on my help to you, and thank you. Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor
Hi, I would have to assume your igniter is weak or has a crack in it. Do you see glow from the igniter every time? There is a flame sensor that looks for flame after the gas comes on and it will lockout after three tries, if the flame came on and shut back down every time, it would be problem with that.
The unit uses "flame rectification" (basically it is sensing a pulsing dc current) to sense the flame and is very sensitive to bad/poor ground and also to a dirty flame sensor. The gas ignition does not shut off the valve ...the board is not sensing the current thru the flame so its reading a "no Fire" fault and shutting down.
Clean the flame sensor with sandpaper till its brite and shiny and check all connections to make sure they are tight and very clean, especially the ground to the board and also to the furnace itself (sometimes we have to actually drive a ground rod near the furnace itself or use some other means to make sure that a proper gorund is achieved).
If still have a problem; I would try another board, the flame sensor is just a piece of solid stainless alloy wire so its really not necessary to change it unless the ceramic insulator is cracked.
Before you buy another board, I would suggest that you have a pro look at it.
There is a vacuum sensor on most units tied from the exhaust gas fan to the sensor. Does the unit try to start? If the unit's exhaust fails to pull the switch it will turn off after about 30-45 sec after starting. "IT" thinks it's not exhausting and stops to keep from overheating. Do you have this exhaust fan and rubber hose to sensor? Can you see if that fan is turning on start?