Door switch wiring

Replacing a fuel pump has nothing to do with instrument cluster lights or the clock staying on. Unless you shorted wires , did you disconnect the negative battery cable before hand ?
The body control module (BCM) performs the following functions:
• A/C compressor request
• A/C cooling fan
• Exterior and interior lighting control
- Daytime running lights (DRL)
- Automatic lighting control
- Fog lamps
- Interior lighting
• Battery rundown
• Chime
• Gauge control
• Instrument cluster indicator control
• Fuel gauge control
• Temperature gauge control
• Theft deterrent
Interpreting all of the driver warnings sent by the control modules on the class 2 serial data line
Sending the information to the instrument cluster in the form of a SPI serial data bus message
The following list of messages are sent by the BCM to the instrument cluster:
• Fuel gauge position
• Temperature gauge position
• Oil pressure
• Low engine coolant
• Check oil
• Volts
• ABS
• High beam
• Low fuel
• High temperature
• Washer fluid level low
• CRUISE
• BRAKE
• SERVICE VEHICLE SOON
• Door ajar
• Seat belt
• THEFT SYSTEM
• PRNDL
Check the fuel level sensor wires , the fuel level sensor is a input to the BCM .

Check all doors , switches , one of them is stuck oppen .

Obviously no power to distributor or pump when key is turned on, check ignitin circuit and fuses related to pump and distributor

sounds like the fuel pump is not staying on or the ingtion switch doesn't make in the run position ( happens alot to vehicals take have lots of keys hang on the switch) The sparp going away is easy to check with a test light theres a connector on the distrubutor that has a heavy red wire plugged in that goes to the B+ terminal it should be hot with the key in the run position. if it's dead fix the connection at the ingtion switch ( it's on top of the steering collum and all but one wire will be hot with the key on, that one comes hot in start) if it's good the fuel pump is next it has a fuse on the passenger side firewall next to the fuel pump relay. Fuse bad or relay bad or dirty it'll act this way. The start wire entergizes the pump in crank position. then the oil pressure switch takes over and keeps the pump on. theres 3 wires on the oil pressure switch the center wire works the light the left one is fuel pump fuse power and the right one is the fuel pump. the oil switch can go bad and the connection can go bad the wire can fall off or get broken. the wire to the fuel pump may not get all the way to the pump.. You can add power to any wire on the swich with out hurting anything. all of the wires will be hot with it plugged in and running. unplugged two wires are hot with the key on ones the light ( oil Pressure light) the other is the key on power for the pump with oil pressure the switch closes and the pump comes on and it'll be powered right off the starter as it's cranking. If the switch is leaking oil its likly failed too.

well, first, to find out if its the in tank fuel pump or the tank selector valve, the cheapest and probable easiest thing to do is find the selector valve under the truck and switch the incoming fuel lines. front tank to rear tank inlet, and vice versa. If the truck still doesnt run, you either have an electrical delivery problem to the in tank fuel pump or a bad fuel pump. If after switching the lines, it does run, then you need a new selector valve

It's the switch on the door frame that detects when your door is open. VW's are notorious for this problem. It either needs to be cleaned or replaced. Definitely try cleaning it first. It might be stuck in the "door closed" position.

Take the drivers side kick panel off there is a fuel safty cut off it is a gray box with a button on top push the button in see if it starts if not check the plug in the box to see if it is burnt my ford f 150 is a 87 and thats what happened to it hope this helps

What happens when you remove both switches, and wires? What happens when you use a jumper wire acros both wires, on both doors?

It has to be a broken wire! Initially, I lost the door locks & power to the windows ONLY when the drivers door was open. When I closed the door, the problem went away. Finally, I had the problem all the time. I checked for 12 vdc at the switch in the drivers door and there was NO POWER. In the rubber boot (between the car & door) I found the grey wire (with a pink stripe) was broken internally but the INSULATION WAS NOT!!!

sounds like ecm. car starts but when it switches over to run setting from cranking setting the cumputer ecu doent activate the run curcuits which may control your fuel injectors. check to see if engine has spark. remove one plug wire from spark plug put it close to the valve cover if you see an arc then you know that you have spark. then also go to fuel pump in tank and check voltage on the power wire if you have good voltage and the pump doesnt make any noise while ur cranking then it may be a fuel pump if the pump is making way to much noise then check the fuel pressure by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge. all test are to be done while someone cranks the engine. noid light for the injectors, disconnect on injector electical connetor connect the noid light to the wire that u just unplugged from the injector. the light will flash while u crank , once it goes to the run circut the light will either stay on which will shut off ur car or the light will stay off which will do the same. if the noid light did what I said when it went to the run circut then it is what controls your injectors...ecm good luck....daniel