Our space heater doesn't turn on even though the red light on top is lit. We've turned up the desired temp way above what the unit states is the room temp, to no avail. We feel like it may have to do with the peg on the bottom of the unit needing to be reset or calibrated, but aren't sure. We have it on a flat surface.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Let's get more info! Take off the front panel of the heater... If you have space to kneel down and look under the display to the back of the circuit board then front panel us all you need to remove for now, if it's too difficult to see or if you have no space then the top panel would need to be loosened by removing the wing nuts on each corner. If you do loosen the top panek be careful when lifting it as the wires are still connected!
Turn heater on and tgen check the back of the board to see which tiny red lights are on , take note of which are on and what abbreviation is next to the illuminated light. this will tell you which area of the heater the issue is then repost with that info
The BTU is what is pretty much required to effectively and efficiently heat to the temperature range you are comfortable with. It's a matter of the maximum degrees you want to raise the temperature. In my case I wanted to be able to increase the ambient temperature in my woodworking workshop from 40 degrees to 65 degrees and I have less than favorable insulation in this workshop, so my desired BTU is 16,359 at 4,794 watts. This heater meets that demand quite nicely.
As for cost, as I mention in the video (link above) the two ceramic space heaters were costing me about $1.56 per evening to heat my workshop. This heater is costing me only about 92 cents for the same length of time. I have immediate savings of over 62 cents per evening of use! Why the huge difference? Because the other two space heaters had to run continuously at combined 3,000 watts for 2 hours to heat the space and then continuously to maintain the desired temperature. The Dr Heater DR966 bring s my workshop from 40 to 60-65 degree in a half hour at 6,000 watts and then only runs intermittently at 3,000 watts to maintain that temperature. Therefore I am using less electricity to heat my shop to 65 degrees and to maintain that temperature.
I have my heater connected to a 30amp circuit breaker and have had no issues with the electrical demand of the heater tripping the breaker. But I am also using a six-foot long 6-gauge cord from the heater to the outlet and 8-gauge wire from the outlet to the breaker and the outlet is mounted directly underneath the sub-panel, so there virtually no distance from the breaker to the six-foot cord.
If the BTU supply of this heater meets your BTU demands I recommend that you get this heater and see for yourself what it's like to have a well heated work space. It's nice!
Here's a link to view the heater I used. http://astore.amazon.com/wwwdogwoodtal-20
If you have cold water now, you should hear the unit fire up and run while heating water. Proceedure would be; pilot is lit with thermostat at pilot setting. Once pilot is lit, you turn up to desired temp setting and you should hear the heater running. Depending on lighting, you should be able to see it slightly brighter and may flicker some while heating.
I'm confused. First you listed this as a propane torpedo heater. Second, it's a problem with and All Pro PK115 T Forced Air Kerosene Space Heater. And finally, you say "propane torpedo lights but doesn't stay lit."
Which is it? To really help you, I'll need the correct manufacturer's name & model number. And whether it's propane or kerosene fired?
Ventless Gas logs, Vanguard, VS30PR. Propane gas
Pilot light stays lit various times, sometimes for several days then other times for a few minutes. Lights best when temp outside is below freezing. Pilot flame appears to receive too much air. How do you adjust the pilot flame? Is this done using two screws marked A & E? Do you have suggestions?
Try this, turn the black gas ****, on top of the control box, to the Pilot position. Set the temp. control on the front of the box to the desired temp. Then, hold a match or whatever else you use to light it, next to the end of the pilot, then, while holding the match to the pilot, press the reset button on top. When the pilot lights, continue to hold the reset button down for about 1 minute. Then, after a minute, turn the gas **** to the ON position, then it should remain on.