Question about Cannon Chesterfield C60G Kitchen Range

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Gas in main oven

Once the gas supply in main oven is turned on the flame remains the same on as Mark 1 as it is on Gas Mark 9.

The upper oven works ok as with the hobs so it would seem not to be a gas supply issue.

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  • flask Jan 14, 2009

    i have the same problem, there is an answer saying something about the thermastat, what do you think?

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Hello, i have looked into the problem and have come up with a fix for mine at least. take out all the trays, and peer into the rear. you will see a silver section which has three srcews. remove the centre one to get access to the burner which has the white igniter on it. this just slips sideways and off. with the aid of a small mirror you should see a small brass nut where the gas comes from. there is a small pinhole in the centre,mine was slightly blocked and this reduced the flow of gas. i cleaned this with a pin and the gas flow improved. i am not an expert and take no responsibilty if it goes wrong. it appears to have worked for me so the choice is yours.
regards. flask

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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1 Answer

Can I adjust the regulator to lower the flame?


Hello Douglas;



My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.



What bothers me is that changing these components increased your flame size?



1.) Make sure you have the correct gas safety valve. These valves are preset to inches of water column.



2.) The ignitor has nothing to do with your flame size. What happens is the oven thermocouple controls your oven temperature. When your oven get about 40 degrees above the set temperature, the ignitor and controlling gas components will shut down. When your oven temperature falls below the set temperature the ignitor and gas components will turn back on. There are ovens called accurate, which are expensive and do not have a 80 degree swing.



3.) Ok. Gas regulator. It is adjustable. Generally you have about a 7" water column pressure going into the regulator and 1" to 4" water column pressure coming out.

At the top of the gas regulator you have a long stem. Inside this stem is a shaft with a spring at the top and a valve at the bottom. In between is a rubber diagram which controls the valve based on the gas inlet and outlet pressure.



4.) Adjust. Turn the gas supply off to the range. Turn on the oven and gas burners to bleed the gas from the system.

There is a slot at the top of the stem. With a flat head screw driver, turn the stem top 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise to reduce the regulator outlet pressure. Turn the gas supply back on to check the flame. You may have to repeat this process to get your desired flame.



BE PATIENT. BE SAFE.

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1 Answer

Chef Regency Gas Wall Oven - oven fan working,light working , grill working as well but the main oven not responding when turning dial. The Piezo ignition is intermittent and no gas sound coming out.


The Piezo control board opens the gas valve while it makes a spark. Once the flame is lit the milivolt flame sensor holds it open from there on. Replace the piezo control board to fix.

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Hi there people I have a Parmco 900 which I can't get the gas through, I have replaced clock and thermostat as was given oven, igniters working just no gas? Do the thermo couples affect this?


Yes, but on the oven only. The thermocouple only allows gas to the main burner once the thermocouple is heated up. This confirms that there is a flame to light the main burner.

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1 Answer

The fan is working bt the oven isnt getting hot


I assume you have already checked the gas supply by turning on a burner on top.

Do you smell gas when the oven first tries to light? If the flame sensor isn't picking up a fire on the oven burner within a few seconds after the igniter is supposed to start firing, it will shut off the gas valve. The first thing to check is the oven igniter. Can you hear it sparking (repeated snapping sound until main flame starts)? The sound may be drowned out by the fan, so hearing it would only verify that it's making sparks; not hearing it doesn't tell you anything unless you were able to hear it before the problem started. If you had a major spill in the oven recently, it's possible some residue made its way to the igniter or pilot flame tube and is gumming up the works.

The next items to check would be the oven gas valve and thermostat.

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1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

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3 Answers

Whirpool gas range - propane gas not sure oven is working right


First, the flame should be blue and without much visible yellow. You need to give the gas tube a good cleaning to get out any soot buildup and any partial obstuctions that might be causing the problem. Since you started with a yellow flame and soot, you need to get the burner tubes clean to see if you have resolved the problem after adjusting the regulator and burner valve(s).

You might need to install a different regulator to match the pressure of your gas supply source, as regulators have a specific working range of inlet (supply gas pressure) that they can operate properly at to "regulate" the supply pressure to the stove's needed pressure.

Check your manual and the installation guide to verify what the gas inlet pressure requirements are and check with your gas supplier to see what they are providing you.

To your 2nd question, yes, the gas will cycle on and off when you are using the oven, since the thermostat will call for more heat when needed and shut off the gas/flame once the temperature you set the control at, has been reached. The cycling is a result of the oven trying to maintain the desired temperature for baking.

One reason that you can smell gas when the oven is being used, is because all gas ovens have a surface vent to allow excess heat to escape from the oven compartment, however you should not be smelling raw gas (actually you're smelling the "rotten egg" additive that's put in the gas) all the time, since when the oven is turned on, a small electric ignitor is heated up VERY HOT glowing bright orange inside the oven compartment. Once it's hot enough a sensor opens the gas valve and lets gas into the burner tube to be ignited instantly by the VERY HOT ignitor. It is rare to smell raw gas with this system, but sometimes you'll get a stronger "rotten egg" smell at different times due to the gas company and their system, etc.

As to the gas smell, you should NOT be smelling gas every time the oven cycles on when baking, as a normal ongoing occurrence. During the first few uses, it is normal to smell some gas, but this should go away after a couple of uses. If it doesn't, you should look to make sure the regulator and oven controls are PROPERLY configured and set - Since you've already fiddled with these, it's probably a good idea to have someone from your gas company (or a gas appliance tech) come out and do this. Improper settings can cause some serious problems.

Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Main Oven will light and remain on, however there is no temp adjustment even after a time delay Model Parkinson Cowan SIG 454


Hi

The problem you have is this:

The FSD (Flame Safeguard Device) is faulty. This is what it does....

When you turn your oven on the FSD allows a small amount of gas through to the burner, the lit gas heats the FSD and says yay we have gas!, it then lets more gas through!

If it's broke it just keeps it on low flame.

You need to get a qualified Gas Engineer to look at it for you

I hope this helps

Steve :)

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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When you turned the oven off, if the ignitor went off and the gas kept flowing then the thermal valve is defective. Maybe that was the problem all along.

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1 Answer

Stoves Newhome SI550DOm gas cooker


Hi,
This is a common safety feature, and is based upon the main gas valve inside the appliance. It regulates only a tiny ammount of gas through when closed - enough to light a pilot. This should then heat a component high enough to trigger the main gas valve and light the main burner.

With the door fully open. Turn on the oven and watch the pilot ignite FROM THE OUTSIDE. Look to see that it is heating what looks like a small wire in the flame. If it is not. Turn it off and let it cool.

You need to adjust this into the path of the flame just by bending it a little. Then try again.
If you cannot, or adjustment doesn't work,then you really need a replacement main gas valve - which is a registered appliance specialist job I'm afraid. Don't take chances with gas appliances.

Thank you for using Fixya.

Dec 26, 2008 | Stoves Newhome ECH600MXa Electric Kitchen...

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