Hello, i have looked into the problem and have come up with a fix for mine at least. take out all the trays, and peer into the rear. you will see a silver section which has three srcews. remove the centre one to get access to the burner which has the white igniter on it. this just slips sideways and off. with the aid of a small mirror you should see a small brass nut where the gas comes from. there is a small pinhole in the centre,mine was slightly blocked and this reduced the flow of gas. i cleaned this with a pin and the gas flow improved. i am not an expert and take no responsibilty if it goes wrong. it appears to have worked for me so the choice is yours.
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
What bothers me is that changing these components increased your flame size?
1.) Make sure you have the correct gas safety valve. These valves are preset to inches of water column.
2.) The ignitor has nothing to do with your flame size. What happens is the oven thermocouple controls your oven temperature. When your oven get about 40 degrees above the set temperature, the ignitor and controlling gas components will shut down. When your oven temperature falls below the set temperature the ignitor and gas components will turn back on. There are ovens called accurate, which are expensive and do not have a 80 degree swing.
3.) Ok. Gas regulator. It is adjustable. Generally you have about a 7" water column pressure going into the regulator and 1" to 4" water column pressure coming out.
At the top of the gas regulator you have a long stem. Inside this stem is a shaft with a spring at the top and a valve at the bottom. In between is a rubber diagram which controls the valve based on the gas inlet and outlet pressure.
4.) Adjust. Turn the gas supply off to the range. Turn on the oven and gas burners to bleed the gas from the system.
There is a slot at the top of the stem. With a flat head screw driver, turn the stem top 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise to reduce the regulator outlet pressure. Turn the gas supply back on to check the flame. You may have to repeat this process to get your desired flame.
I have a delongi oven and hob hob is working fine but the oven isnot im turning the nob on the front of the oven and ignition on lighting is fine after I release the knob on the front the supply turns striaght off no flame no gas nothing
I assume you have already checked the gas supply by turning on a burner on top.
Do you smell gas when the oven first tries to light? If the flame sensor isn't picking up a fire on the oven burner within a
few seconds after the igniter is supposed to start firing, it will shut
off the gas valve. The first thing to check is the oven igniter. Can you hear it sparking (repeated snapping sound until main flame starts)? The sound may be drowned out by the fan, so hearing it would only verify that it's making sparks; not hearing it doesn't tell you anything unless you were able to hear it before the problem started. If you had a major spill in the oven recently, it's possible some residue made its way to the igniter or pilot flame tube and is gumming up the works.
The next items to check would be the oven gas valve and thermostat.
Hi, your thermocouple is faulty, it is the little probe like thingy that sticks up into the pilot flame. It is there for safety purposes, detects flame and holds a valve open magnetically to allow the gas to pass through. Try giving it a clean with a scourer, sometimes works, or your pilot flame is not big enough, could be low on gas or unit needs a service
If there is only enough gas for the pilot, it is very likely the main gas ciontrol valve is either in need of replacement or the "hot wire" sensor is in the wrong place or broken.
Basically the hot wire determines if the pilot is lit before turning on the main gas supply valve. It is a safety feature to dissapoint the suicidal.
I suggest this is fitted by a gas engineer as a leak at the valve can be very dangerous.