Heater not working. Per repairman circuit (pc) board needs replacement. He noticed a puddle of water accumulating underneath the circuit board which may be the cause of this problem. What could cause the condensation in the heater box area? The unit is stationed in the attic area of the garage in a single-story house. The model is Goodman GMP050-3 Serial number 9408120443.
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If your home has an electric water heater that is not working properly, start your troubleshooting here
When an electric water heater fails to heat water, either the power to the water heater has been interrupted or there is a problem with the controls or heating elements. Perform these diagnostics:
1) Be sure electricity is being delivered to the appliance. Check the main switch on the water heater and the circuit breaker (or fuse) that serves the water heater. If the circuit breaker has tripped, reset it by flipping it all the way to OFF and then back to ON.
If a fuse has blown, replace it with a new fuse with the same rating. If the circuit breaker or fuse repeatedly blows out, call a qualified electrician to check and repair the circuit. Note that the water heater should not share a circuit with another appliance—it draws too much power when heating.
2) Check the high-temperature cutoff in the water heater. Open the panel and push the reset button. If the button doesn’t make a clicking sound or you still don’t have power after pressing it, then your high-temperature cutoff is probably bad. Call an electric water heater repairperson.
3) If there is any water inside the compartment, this could cause the thermostat to malfunction. Leaking water means that your water heater may need to be replaced. If this is the case, be sure to read the “Storage Water Heater Buying Guide” and related buying guide articles before making your purchase.
If these steps don’t solve the problem, you may have a problem with your heating elements. You can replace these yourself following the manufacturer’s instructions if you feel comfortable with this type of repair, or call a water heater service professional.
I didn't realize how quickly condensation can enter the tank. Condensation will ruin the wick permanently, even a brand new wick.
To avoid condensation, do NOT empty the tank unless you are replacing the wick, or some other repair requires it. Likewise, do NOT burn the kerosene out, for the same reason: condensation.
When the tank is filled enough, condensation can still enter but the wick will be able to burn and you won't know the difference. But as soon as the kerosene is gone, all the wick has is water.
STORAGE: When you burn out the kerosene to store it, condensation can enter and you will not be able to use the wick again. So unless it's necessary, don't burn out the kerosene.
If you have to store the heater in a place that requires the tank to be empty, dissassemble the heater before you use it again and make sure the tank is completely dry and contains no water BEFORE you use it again.
I think but I'm not sure, that the tank must have been designed to let some condensation fall to the sides, or somehow get out of the way. But I'm certain this doesn't last because condensatiion is inevitable and it will accumulate.
Hello, it sounds like your condensate line is clogged and not be able to drain into the condensate pump or your condensate pan is cracked and leaking. Best thing to do is clean the condensate line with a shop vac and see if the water will start to drain, if not looks like the pan is cracked.
Make sure it's turned off. Better yet, turn off the circuit breaker to the heater. Remove the cover by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the front cover in place. Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to vacuum the blades, as well as the interior of the heater. If necessary, use some canned compressed air (like you clean a computer with) with the straw nozzle attached, to blow out any areas the vacuum can't reach. Then vacuum again. Replace the cover with the 2 screws you removed. Turn the circuit breaker on and you're back in business.
if its the furnace condensating it obviously needs a drain some high efficincy heaters need drains as they burn so efficient they sweat and condensate in flu and you need to get rid of this by draining if the furnace has no drain it must by your venting into area causing it condensate in the area furnace in, so you just need fresh air vent in doorway or wall to let more air in, but i reckon its more the draining of the furnace, if the plumber can't stop the moisture coming in, and didn't give you any solutions i hope you didn't pay him to come there for nothing! and if you are not using heater and moisture getting in still this is a drainage problem or water circuit, which is a plumbing problem not your furnace
EE13 is for the burner thermister, not the thermostat. It prevents the burner from overheating. It does not reset after it has opened an will need to be replaced. Perform a resistance check on the thermistor. It should be less than 200k ohms after preheating. If it isn't, replace the thermistor. If it is the problem could be the circuit board. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more assistance. firstname.lastname@example.org
if this is a high effeciency model, the venting may not be clear or the drain may be partially plugged. if you hear any sort of water gurgling in the inducer motor, you probably have one of these conditions. if that checks, see if you have 110 volts to the hot surface ignitor. if you read voltage there after the inducer comes up to speed, then you need a new hot surface ignitor. if no voltage, then the pressure switch is still not closing. concentrate on the condensate drain and furnace venting.
my heater did the same, very frustrating.
i have solved this problem.
i took off the plastic cover to expose the electronic circuit board and noticed that there was a white residue on the board. I wiped this clean with rubbing alcohol and put everything back. as of 3 weeks ago i have used the heater frequently as normal and not had any problems.