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Re: how do you fix a seized up bearing?
Hi are you sure bearing is the problem ?? if your machine is working ok ie running /completing the wash cycle and also draining the used water/rinsing cycle ? but when on spin cycle the clothes are still wet ? if this is the case ? may i suggest that you inspect/check the actual motor brushes ?? as if the brushes x 2 are worne very low they will drive the wash cycle for a time but when spin cycle activates the revs req'd of the motor are lost ie worn brushes will not provide extra power now to change brushes is easy diy and here in uk a pack of 2 new brushes cost approx £5 and if you remove rear cover of machine you will see what looks like auto alternator//this is the motor which is held and adjustable to drive belt in the same way as alternator on a car the elec connection is a master plug so no problem to remove? hope this helps and inspires you ? come back if you get stuck ? or req more info best wishes for a merry xmas
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these machines use the belt as a clutch and a cam to release the break the growling noise was probably the bearing going at the bottom of the trans and is now seized you may also find a water leak at the tub seal this is the most common reason for these failures you will probably end up replacing thee trans and seal kit.
The problem you described suggests that the spin bearing or basket drive
may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely
inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound
during the spin cycle, as said by you. This would require to call a qualified appliance repair
Check this and
do get back to us for any further assistance.
wet as in standing water left in tub, or wet as in extra drippy??? standing water would be bad or pluged pump, drippy would be bad belt, pulley or tensioner assembly.. also if pump turns hard or has seized, the seal/bearing may have seized, causing a slowdown in spin speed besides burning the belt, leaking, and making a mess.. best of luck, ttfn
sounds as if your motor has tightened-up or seized from heat and age bearing failure which it would cause excessive current draw at start-up if you can access the motor unplug unit then remove belt and spin motor pulley is should turn freely and coast to a stop if it seems tight the bearings are dried out
Common problem with this model I own it. Sounds like the roller clutch bearings in your machine are seized/rusted up.Do you want to try to DIY the repair? Read thru this postfor the details of what is involved.Post back with any questions.Rich
there two reasons for this in a TL washer stretched belts or a bad thrust bearing, and lastly check that the brakes are not worn and dragging in the spin, depending on the age of the wsher it may be economically worth investing in a new machine brake jobs or thrust bearing jobs by a tech can be upwards of 200+ dollars .
If you have removed the drive belt from the rear pulley and the inner spin basket does not spin freely, you either have a drum bearing seized up on you, or something binding between the spin basket (stainless steel tub) and the outer tub shell. First, you need to reach inside the wash tub with the washer empty. Place the palm of your hand at the 12 o'clock position and push straight up. There shouldn't be any play in the spin basket. If you can feel the basket wobble up and down, you have either a bearing problem, or a spin basket support (spider arm) broken on the back of the spin basket. If there is no play at all, you probably have something caught. Small articles of clothing can sometimes get pulled between the tubs and usually ends up around the support shaft in the rear. This will obstruct the basket from spinning freely and could eventually cause damage to the drive motor, spin basket and/or tub bearings. You can use the instructions for replacing a rear tub bearing that I have posted under my Tip and Tricks for instructions on how to disassemble and inspect the tub. The bearing may not be bad, but you still need to check to see if anything is binding the spin basket against the tub shell and inspect the spin basket supports. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble the washer to be able to inspect any of these items I mention. I hope this helps you.
The problem is 2 fold. The "knocking" noise is indicative of brake rub. The fix is to replace the rotor & stator. The reason that your clothing are coming out wet is because the brake is dragging along a polished stator when in spin and cannot get up to its proper speed as a result. The 2nd item that should be replaced is the thrust bearing assy. This is what enables the transmission to transition from agitation to spin... Hope this helps... Bill
im confused as to why you think no drum rotation would be caused by bearings. typically worn bearings would cause noisy spin. only if bearings were completely seized would that cause no drum rotation.
can you rotate drum by hand? if so bearings are not seized.
can you hear motor rotate when you select spin?
if not, then likely cause is motor brushes.
do these simple tests and get back to me if you want.
and bearings are quite difficult to replace on this machine