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Frigidair front load washer won't drain during spin cycle

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  • 61 Answers

The main reason these units wont drain is because the drain pump is plugged. Remove the front access panel at the bottom the pump is located on the right hand side at the front. Get rid of water in unit with a shop vac, disconnect wires from pump remove hoses clean out pump and rubber hose to the tub reassemble and try. good luck

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

6 Suggested Answers

  • 184 Answers

SOURCE: Front Loading Washer LOUD NOISE

IF IT ROARS LIKE A JET PLANE TAKING OFF, THE SPIN BEARING IS FAILING. PROBABLY, THE REAR SEAL HAS FAILED ALLOWING WATER TO GET INTO THE BEARING.
THE BEARING HAS LOST ITS LUBRICATION SO IT IS GETTING DRY. IT WILL CONTINUE TO GET LOUDER AND LOUDER THE LONGER REPAIRS ARE PUT OFF.
THE ENTIRE BACK HALF OF THE OUTER TUB WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THE BEARING IS PART OF THAT ASSEMBLY. CAN BE A COSTLY REPAIR.

Posted on Apr 05, 2008

  • 196 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire front load washer won't drain or spin

This often is a drain hose that is too low or a drain hose that has been pushed too far down inside the stand pipe....the water is actually siphoning out of the washer. Do not "seal" the drain hose to the house plumbing pipe, this will also allow the water to be siphoned out.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 378 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire front load washer wont high spin

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: My model #gltr1670aso makes loud noises during spin cycle

Usually this is due to either the drum support breaking or the back bearing being bad-neither easy to fix- or worth it. Try lifting the drum up and down, if it moves up and down they are bad. I see this a lot, and the price of repair isn't worth it. Craig

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: My Frigidaire front load washer

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on what you've described,...you likely need a door lock/switch assembly. The closest I found to your model is actually CLTF2940ES0.

The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, aside from pump's being obstructed.

I think it fool's many people because the lock indicates it is energized on the panel, however the built in "monitor" switch inside the assembly fail's. I do see a lot of these particular machine's...unfortunately.

You should be able to purchase one at most local brick

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: my frigidaire affinity front loading washer does

Hello, welcome to FixYa

It sounds like the unit is detecting an unlocked door, loose wire, bad reed switch etc. hence the control will not initiate a hi-speed spin.

I know most folks will rule out the lock initially because the unit does indeed "lock", however, the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.

macmarkus_339.jpg
If it does indeed drain fine, then here's the next place I'd direct you to investigate.

**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**


It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.

What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, i.e.

macmarkus_340.jpg
If loose, push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )


If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch (95% of the time), so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...There should be a tech sheet underneath the tub assembly behind the access panel for test procedure of the switch.

**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**

You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace.

As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.

1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**

2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.



a936590.jpg


309723c.jpg


3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.

46e20c7.jpg
95f0559.jpg

4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.

Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.


Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on Jun 01, 2011

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There's an auxiliary switch in the door lock.switch assembly that is activated at the end of the wash cycle for the machine to advance to the spin cycle. The machine will NEVER advance to the spin cycle unless the auxiliary switch is activated as a safety feature to prevent the door from opening during a high-speed spin cycle that may result in physical injury. The drum tumbles back and forth while the machine control checks the auxiliary if activated but since it's not, the control will not command the motor speed control to spin the drum at high speed. These symptoms may indicate a faulty door lock/switch assembly and may need replacement. Click on the links below for the detailed troubleshooting instructions and replacement of the door lock/switch assembly.

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