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How to wire up speakers to head unit? - Car Audio & Video

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**** connectors, or solder

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

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Left speaker in my 1998 chevy s10 fades out then dies


What have you tried?
Is this an aftermarket sound system?
It could be a fault in the head unit, the cables or the speaker itself.

Assuming that its and aftermarket head unit using original wires this is what I would do:

Remove the head unit to gain access the wiring behind.
Most units have the wiring colour coded and a generally in pairs for +ve and -ve, some even have them label LR (Left Rear) RR (Right Rear) LF (Left Front) RF (Right Front).

The wires are commonly joined to the existing speaker wires by insulated electrical "connectors" that simply pull apart, though only pull on the connector NOT the wire.

Half-way jobs are just the bared wired "twisted" around the joining wire and wrapped in electrical tape.

Ensure all the connectors are still in tact and

Test after removing each pair of speaker wire to which speaker is disconnected.
When you determine which wire is for which, switch the non-working left speaker over with a working one and test to see if the speaker still fades.

1. If it does not fade then your problem is the head unit - I would replace it.
2. If it does then the problem is in the speaker or the wiring.

Remove the speaker and swap with one of your working speakers.

A. If it still fades then the problem is in your wiring and you will need to run new wires.
B. If it does not fade then the problem is simply your speaker.

Hope that helps.

Apr 09, 2014 | Pyle Car Audio & Video

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1991 toyota carolla seca cs limited head unit wiring colour codes


Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White

May 25, 2012 | 1991 Toyota Corolla

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My kenwood head cd unit in my car keeps on flashing "protect" i checked all wires in the head unit and nothing.it will stay ok for a while but it goes back to protect...


hi,
Check the speaker in you car which are connected to you head unit. if the speaker or the wire which runs to the speakers have some problem then the head unit will show protect.
Also one more possibility is, the faulty output amplifier IC in the head unit. if the audio out put IC is short or fail then also the unit will show the same. Audio output Ic means the audio amplifier. Check the speaker and wire first. Mainly the wire check is there is any insulation damage in it. if the insulation get damaged possibility to get contact with the metal part of the body of the car then also the protect will appear.
ok

Apr 04, 2011 | Kenwood CD-324M CD Player

1 Answer

Need wiring diagram


Step 1 Understand the basics of all car stereo systems. A car stereo system consists of 4 main components and the wiring that connects them. These are the head unit, the main speakers, optional amplifiers and the subwoofers, which are also optional but generally considered a necessary part of any good system.
Step 2 Know that the core of any car stereo is the head unit, which is the cassette or CD player that goes in the dash. All the other components are connected to the head unit by at least one pair of wires.
Step 3 Know about car speakers. The main speakers are usually 2 in the front and 2 in the back, although with what are known as component speakers, each speaker is broken down into two speakers: one for the highs and one for the bass. Each speaker or speaker set (known as a channel) connects to the head unit via a pair of wires. Generally if you are installing a new head unit you want to install new speakers.
Step 4 Know about amplifiers. Amplifiers provide extra power to your speakers and/or extra channels of power for additional speakers. The most common use for an amplifier (amp) is to power subwoofers. The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire. This article assumes the use of a single amplifier connected to a pair of subwoofers. If you do not have these components simply ignore the steps specific to the amp, doing so will not affect the rest of your installation.
Step 5 Know about subwoofers. Subwoofers are part of any good stereo system. They provide the deep bass that small speakers cannot achieve. Subwoofers are connected to the amplifier which can usually be mounted right to the subwoofer box. If you do not have subwoofers you can simply ignore the steps specific to them.
Preparing for the installation
Step 1 Be properly prepared. This is extremely important since you do not want to realize you're missing something in the middle of the installation.
Step 2 Purchase the following: A car stereo wire harness which connects the existing wiring for your old head unit to your new one (this will be specific to BOTH the model and year of your car AND to the make of your new head unit); an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.
Step 3 Obtain a guide to removing the dash, doors panels (or whatever compartment the speakers are in), and floor molding of your car. You may be able to find a guide for this online. If not, you can get a repair manual for your car at most automotive stores and online).
Step 4 Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers to fit the job, pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, a utility knife, sand paper or a file, electrical tape, a 9-volt battery, and any other tools that the instructions for installing the head unit and your car guides specify.
Installation Process
Step 1 Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
Step 2 Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.
Step 3 Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.
Step 4 Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.
Step 5 Put the fuse in the fuse holder.
Step 6 Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.
Step 7 On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).
Step 8 In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.
Step 9 Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.
Step 10 Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.
Step 11 If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.
Step 12 Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.
Step 13
Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. That's all!

Good luck.

Mar 26, 2010 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Head unit blown out possibly ????


souds like the wires on the speakers is the wrong way round or the speakers are ****

Dec 14, 2009 | Alpine SPS-600C Car Component System

1 Answer

How to hook up a pyramid pro plus 4 channel pb-180px without using rca jacks for 6 by 9s


The pb180 has High Input receptacles on the back end. They are marked High Input and identified as Channels 1&2 left/right, and channels 3&4 left/right. You will need to identify all speaker wires coming from your head unit ( left front +&--) , and so on. You will be sending the speaker wires from the head unit to the pb180's High Inputs. In other words, the front left speaker wires(+&-) from the head unit will go to the High Input Channels 1&2 side, left input of the pb180, and so on, so the speaker wires coming out of the head unit will need to be cut. And LABEL all sets of speaker wires before you cut them! Then on the OUTPUT end of the pb180, you will be sending the wires back to the the respective speaker wires which are going to the speakers. So it's out from head unit to pb180 and out from pb180 to speakers.
Hopefully you have the plugs that Pyramid uses for the speaker wire inputs to the amp. If not you have to get creative, and make up terminals to fit into the input receptacles. Maybe a wire terminal from Radio shack will fit those pins..
Also, if you go on line: Google search "Pyramid auto amps" and click on "SEARCH" (upper right hand) of their Web Page. Plug in your model number like this, pb180, and you'll be able to download the manual for this amp. The manual has a full description of the wiring options.

Hope this was helpful and Good Luck!

Jul 27, 2009 | Pyramid Audio Players & Recorders

2 Answers

I had my head unit put in by a audio shop and when i got my car (1993 Saab 9000 CSE Turbo) back my rear speakers dint work so i took the head unit out(because the shop would not fix it or refund me and i...


If the rear speakers worked before your new head unit was installed, then the first question is does your new head unit have the facility to feed four speakers. Some systems will only power two speakers. The Audio Shop should have rectified the fault - you paid for the installation and as the customer you have a reasonable expectation that they would do it properly and ensure that all of the existing speakers were functioning properly. It would be worth challenging them again - if they refuse you could go to Citizen's Advice Bureaux or the nearest Trading Standards Office. Alternatively, try tracing the wires back from the rear speakers to the head unit - are the wires connected up properly... at both ends (i.e., the speaker end and the head unit).

The audio shop has probably hard wired the head unit because the sockets in the back of the head unit were not compatible with the plugs that came as standard with the car. A Haynes Manual or equivalent will give the colour codes for the various wires for the audio system.

Jun 26, 2009 | 1993 Saab 9000 Hatchback

1 Answer

Rear speakers do not work


Either the balance is off on the head unit, or the the out puts (in the head unit) for the rear speakers are blown.

May 15, 2009 | 2002 Mazda 626

1 Answer

1999 Audi A4 Rear Speakers


The large block is a factory amplifier - in your car (as was in mine) you had a partially-amplified system. The front speakers were driven at speaker level from the head unit, but the rears were fed a line-level signal from the head unit to the amp, which then boosted to speaker level. The harness then sent the speaker level signal to each rear speaker.

What you can do is fit your new head unit. The fronts will interface perfectly with no issues. For the rear, run new wires from the adapter harness at the back of your head unit, back to the new rear speakers, and connect them directly. Then everything will work as it should.

Dec 17, 2008 | Alpine DDW-F30A Car Speaker

1 Answer

Wiring on back of head unit


You don't need to change the cables from the head unit on.  Just strip of the end of the wires where the old speakers are and crimp on the proper connectors to connect them.  Alternatively you can just solder the wires directly to the speakers.  I always **** splice at least 6" of wires onto the end so you have more wire to work.  The only reason you would change the wires would be because you are putting more than 200 watts per channel.  You didn't speak of an amp so no worries.
James Mac

Sep 09, 2008 | JBL LC-S960 Car Speaker

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