Was having probs with lean running gen so took carb apart and cleaned and adjusted float level up. When testing float and pin operation noticed that pin didnt always free fall with gravity..needed a little shake. Made sure pin was clean and q tipped seat. Is that a problem or does it need fuel flow as lube to keep the pin moving freely.
By pin I am guessing you are describing the needle? Some carbs have a small tang on the float that connects the needle to the float with a small wire spring while others just push against each other. I would take the carb off the engine and hook up a fuel hose with a small bottle that is higher than the carb and with the bowl off manipulate the float up and down and be sure the fuel flows freely when the float drops and frees the needle. If this does not happen-try more cleaning but a new carb may be necessary.
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Take the float bowl off and replace the float needle and seat after you make sure every thing is clean. Make sure the float pin is smooth and not rusted and shake the float to make sure and listen to see if there is a hole in it and fuel got in the float. When you put the carb back together with the float side facing you adjust it so it is level when gravity is holding it closed position.
Hi I am Kelly, I read that you did a carb cleaning. Remove the fuel float bowl again. In the area of the float bowl nut threads is the main fuel jet orifice and fuel tube. Break off a toothpick and use the BLUNT end up inside the threaded area in a twisting manner to wipe any debis from the main fuel orifice. Also if you remove the air filter and look in the throat of the carb. There is a brass tube at the 6 o'clock position. Spray that with carb cleaner and watch for carb cleaner to come out of the main fuel orifice in the threaded area. Once you have done this youshould check fuel flow. Get a spary paint can lid and place it under the carb / float. Turn on the fuel and watch fuel flow. It should fill the spray paint can lid in about 10 seconds. If you do not have good fuel flow then you will need to inspect the main fuel supply at the carb connection. It should really be a rapid rate from the fuel hose coming form the tank. Low flow here you must inspect the tank exit port, fuel shut off and any in line filters. Good flow here but low flow under the float... you need to spray carb cleaner UP beside the float needle with the mainfuel hose removed to get any debris out of the needle and seat area. Then spray from the main fuel line connection DOWN through the float needle and seat. Reconnect the main fuel ine and test flow. Once you have good fuel flow re-install the float bowl and attempt a start.
If you have the same result... read this: IMPORTANT: The engine is equipped with a low oil level sensor. Make sure the oil level is serviced fully. If there is a low oil level condition (or bad sensor) it will shut off the ignition. It is quite possible that your oil level is high enough to get an engine start but as soon as oil is circulated in the engine the sensor is activated. If you suspect a low oil level sensor problem disconnect ONE wire from the sensor and test unit again.
After doing ALL of the above you still have the problem just respond here and I will continue to help you.
First off will it fire over if you add a splash of gas to the throat of the carb?
No = you probably have a stuck valve. I just add gas straight to the spark plug hole and slowly pull the recoil through with the ignition off. Most of the time it works to free sticky valve stems after 2 or 3 cycles of adding gas and slowly pulling the recoil through. Then you have to place rags on the cylinder head to catch all of that gas as you pull the recoil through rapidly for expell the gas. WIPE up any residual fuel before attempting a start.
Still no start check compression... If you don't have a compression tester you can make a poor mans tester... Form a paint brush handle to fit into the hole tightly so that is does not extend into the cylinder any farther than the spark plug would. Pull the recoil.... It should LAUNCH the paint brush out of the hole quite some distance and with force.
Yes it fires: SEE BELOW
If this unit had been sitting for some time there are some things you should do: (I note you said you cleaned the carb but the steps below are what need done on a unit that was idle for an extended period)
1. Clean the fuel float bowl
2. Make sure the main fuel jet orifice located in the area where the float bowl nut or solenoid attaches the float bowl to the body of the carb is cleaned. It will have a pin hole in it that ports fuel to a brass tube at the 6 o'clock position in the throat of the carb. The jet is removable but...most of the time you have to modify a regular screwdriver by grinding off some of the wide portion of the blade shank to make it fit the slot in the orifice and the body of the carb. If you use a screwdriver that is too small it will damage the jet and the only way to get it out is to drill it out VERY carefully.
THE PIN HOLE of the main fuel jet MUST BE VISIBLE
3. Check fuel flow to the carb via the float needle, With the float bowl off, place a spray paint can lid under the float and turn on the fuel selector. The spray can lid should fill in about 10 seconds.
If you do not have this amount of fuel flow then remove the main fuel line from the carb and check flow again. If you still have fuel flow problems
a. Check gas tank exit port for obstructions
b. Check feul flow beforr and after the fuel filter (if used).
c. Check fuel flow before and after the fuel shut off / fuel selector Many fuel selectors have a sediment bowl under the selector.. if yours had a sediment bowl remove the bowl and clean out the contents.
4. You have good fuel flow to the carb manifold....
a. Recheck fuel flow at under the fuel float with the float down. It must provide a reasonable fuel flow that would fill a spray can lid in around 10 seconds. If you still have fuel flow problems only at the the float needle remove the float and float needle. Also the main fuel line. Spray carb cleaner from the flat needle seat are to the fuel manifold and then from the manifold to the float needle seat.
5. Float check... must shut off fuel flow as it is raised to level i.e just as it reaches level.
b. Reassemble and test.
This USUALLY does the trick... if not I need the model number of your generator that starts with a "P" so I can look up the engine and carb data.
Given you have already cleaned up the carb I think you may have a valve stem that is slowing the operation of the valve.... or preventing it from closing (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
If the generator has sat for some time the fuel in the float bowl will turn into a varnish like substance (shellac). The residual fuel in the carb will have to be removed. You do this by removing the fuel solenoid (or bowl nut) which ever one youhave that secures the float bowl to the carb. Then take a screw driver and remove the main fuel orifice and remove the debris from the main fuel orifice. Clean the orifice with carb cleaner. DO NOT push anything into the hole! Also spray the brass tube that the main fuel jet screws into with carb cleaner. You should see carb cleaner being sprayed into the throat of the carb.
While the fuel float bowl is removed get a spray can lid and hold it under the carb float. Turn on the fuel selector and the fuel should completely fill the spray can lid in 8 - 10 seconds. If you do not have this amount of fuel flow you need to remove the main fuel line from the carb and re-check fuel flow. If the flow is good here then use carb cleaner in the float needle area to force any debris back out the fuel manufold connection that is now open because you removed the fuel line. If you still do not have fuel flow then check for debris in the fuel tank exit port, the fuel filter, the sediment bowl under the fuel shut off assembly.
Once again with the spray can lid under the float you should have fuel flow anytime the fuel selector is on and the float level is down. It should shut off fuel just as it reaches level. Any other result and the float and float needle will have to be removed, cleaned and inspected for debris.
Make sure to re-install the main fuel orifice in the treaded area that secures the float bowl in place and.re-connect the main fuel line to the fuel manifold / carb fuel inlet connection
If the engine has a fuel solenoid hook it up and and see of it is working as you turn the key / engine switch on and off before you reinstall the float bowl. You make have to hold the case of the solenoid against the engine to make a ground AWAY from any residual fuel for testing. I.e. don't burn up your generator.
Re-install the fuel float bowl and test the engine. It should now work just fine. The above steps are successful most of the time on generatosr that have sat idle for an extended period. I have been working on generators large and small for over 40 years.
sounds like your carburator might be dirty there are a couple of pin sized holes that can easily become clogged in the carb if you work on them take apart the carb and get some carb cleaner . you will be suprized to see the crud that will collect in the bowl . I go to homedepoe or lowes to the welding section and get a torch tip cleaner its like 3 or 4 bucks it has some tiny wires with ridges on it that will clean out the holes on it .Your carb might have several types of plugs or methods of securing the bowl to the carb some have a bolt with a screw in the middle some just a bolt some have a spring clip . if it is a bolt with a screw in the middle you can remove it and catch the gas as it drains out once empty remove the bolt to release the bowl there i a gascket on the top rim of the bowl remove any debree from the bowl and spray carb cleaner there is prob a yellow residue from the gas that is the oxyidation gas oxyidizes after thirty days .if the nut you took out has two holes in it use th tip cleaner to clean out the hole then look at the float it hinges on a pin that pushes up a little triangular pin that pin has a rubber tip on it it controlles the flow of gas into the bowl if any of the parts are fowled up to bad or rusted go to a lawn repair shop and get a carb kit for your motor get all info off tag or cant get the right parts with all the emissions on the carbs each one is different.once cleaned out put back together if it still runs funny there is another part that comes off the side of the carb it should be a coveer with 4 screws holding it in place on the inside there is a gasket with a spring on it the spring has an aluminum cover to keep from tearing the gasket up replace it with a new one the little flap on the other end act like valves close all back up thenthe screw in the bottom of the carb should be screwed all the way in then un screw 2 1/2 turns and it should be set to about the right flow adjust in or out if it isnt right hopes this helps if you need more help on this leave feed back love to help
If the engine is running rough then this could mean that you have weak spark or valve adjustment. When an engine runs rough it will not burn all the fuel, which will create excess fuel in the air cleaner housing. Also, make sure the the float is closing in the carberator.
My Coleman Generator 5000w with a Tecumseh 10hp story. Mine engine finally did die before I pulled the carburator off. On mine the float was defective. It was full of fuel! I repaired the hole in it. I removed the air filter and saw fuel pouring out the side so much that I had a jar to catch it. I removed the carburator and took the nut off the bowl to examine the float. Then I removed the pin holding the hinged end of the float. Carefully pulled it out with the needle valve attached. When I removed the needle valve (just slides on mine) it was free to test. I tested by shaking it near my ear and I could hear the fuel inside the float. Mine was brass or copper. I wiped mine off with a napkin and finally found the hole. I drained the fuel by polking a needle sized hole and removed the fuel. I then soldered the hole shut with using just electronic 60/40 resin solder and a small soldering iron. Mine works like a champ now.