Question about Coleman Powermate 7,000 Watt 13 Hp Portable Generator #PM0497000

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Brushless powermate (Black Max) Brand New Unit but never put out power

I read your answer for no power output on generators. Could you look at my drawing and tell me what to look for? I purchased this one year ago and assumed that it needed to be flashed but I have been told you don't need to flash this model. I tried the reverse drill method but no luck. Any help you could give would be much appreciated. Especially since they went out of business and my warranty is void. Here is a link to the parts blow up.


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I looked at your parts blow up and noticed that you generator has a brush pack and a voltage regulator. Here are a couple of tips that may help you determine which part is at fault. Obtain a 12 - 16 volt ac power supply of about 1 amp and same voltage DC power supply. I find these at a thrift store and are used to power phones or door bell etc usually about 2 to 3 dollars each. This size power supply is relatively harmless and will not shock you or damage your generator. Remove the brush pack and set aside. You are going to apply 12-16v AC voltage into the 115v plug of your generator. You should hear a very slight hum in the stator if the winding is not open or shorted. Assuming that the 115v winding is ok, there should be voltage at the commutator rings and the armature should actually be making a magnet force. You can turn the armature slightly and actually vary the voltage at the rings. If you are getting voltage at the rings then winding and armature are progably ok. Remove the AC power supply and replace the brush pack. Next use the 12-16v DC 1 amp power supply (paying attention to polarity) to replace the voltage regulator. Disconnect the voltage regulator from the brushes and use the DC power supply to power the armature thru the brush pack and start the engine. You should get some low voltage at the 115v outlet and more important some ac voltage at the leads that power the voltage regulator. If no output at the leads to regulator then winding is open or short, if ac is present then regulator is most likely fault. Good luck, hope this helps, enjoy.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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I'm not sure what the reverse drill method you mention is but here is what to look at based on the documentation from the powermate website.

The main parts of this thing are:
1) The prime mover - We'll take it as given that the engine works OK for now.
2) The output panel - Check for tripped/broken circuit breakers, loose broken wires.
3) The rotor - Visually inspect the end you can get at for burned wiring, look at the diodes and movs mounted "inside" the end of the plastic bobbin the rotor windings wrap around.
4) The VR module - Kidney shaped plastic thing mounted on the support for the end of the rotor shaft. Check for obvious damage (take out the 2 screws and look underneath it too), look closely at the wiring in the plug for this module sometimes wires/pins get pulled out of the plastic connector, check the stator windings connected to the module with an ohm meter shouldn't be open.
5) The stator - Check all the windings with an ohm meter, visually inspect for burned/broken windings.

The VR module is why you "don't need to flash" this generator, unfortunately other than substituting a known good one there isn't an easy way for you to check this part.

If you've checked everything over and don't have any other alternative you might want to try the procedure I talk about here.


Posted on Dec 20, 2008


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I have a petrol generator, it puts out 110 and 230 the switch that changes over is a on/on switch when it was running my mate switched it over to 110 from 230 and the was a flash now it does not put out...

You probably will need to replace the switch if it flashed over. I would disconnect it and document the exact connections before as there are usually a bunch of wires to the switch. Test the switch with an ohmmeter.

The flashover MAY have discharged the magnetic field of the rotor and you may have to "flash the field" to restore it. Google "flashing field" as there are a lot of methods.

Worst case is if the unit is a brushless generator and the flash over in the switch shorted the rotating diodes on the rotor. That will require servicing of the generator part of the unit to replace the diode modules.

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Seach google for methods to "flash" the field. There are different methods depending if it is a brushless generator or not.

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Hi Laurence,
Hope you had as good a holiday as I did :-)
Yes the squareish thing in there is a kind of voltage regulator. More correctly, your brushless generator is using this capacitor to regulate output voltage by means of a resonant circuit between a winding on the stator and this part. The short answer is that you more than likely need a new one and because of its particular shape the only realistic source of the new one is Makita.

I disagree with the service tech about the testability of the thing, my Fluke 112 DMM has a capacitance function that would let me tell if your capacitor was shorted ( 0 mfd reading), open (infinate mfd reading), or some value that could be compared to whatever "known" one was applicable. In this case I'd take a loose guess that the reading of a good one is something like 20 - 100 mfd, but that's just a guess.

let me know if the new capacitor doesn't get it,

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Rate me if this helps, ask directly if it isn't enough,

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