Question about GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

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Hook up control panel

I have a GE JTP15BOA2BB and need to hook up the control panel. I pulles wires one at at time from the old unit and located the correct location for the new one. However, one location s not market and there doesn't seem to be a ground connector?

Thanks,

Rich

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Where to connect third (yellow) wire to lower heating element

A local appliance repairman solved the problem in ten minutes. Charged me $30.00. The two black wires fasten to one terminal, the yellow wire fastens to the other.
I notice you have billed me for your service. Your ads advice if the problem cannot be solved by your technicians, there is no charge. Please credit my account.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: replace upper grill element in a old GE wall oven

Replaced selector switch...problem solved.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

dgjtex
  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: Install bake unit in GE wall oven model JKP07J

I honestly believe you are right. you should be able to wiggle it back and forth and pull it out.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

SOURCE: I need a replacemnt Time clock unit for GE Doubleoven JKP39G0K2BG

Part number is good...WB19X5280 and while it is no longer available in new, there are companies out there on the net that can actually rebuild your electronic control. Cost would be somewhere around one hundred dollars. Search the net for electronic clocks rebuilt. You will save a range and bake many more cakes once repair is made. Good Luck. If I can help further...

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: F7 error message on GE oven

one other comment about the F7 message having delt with this stupid oven for years and after replacing touchpads and controls the touch pad is the cause of the F7 in one of 2 ways either the ribbon cable is shorted (the repair for this has been posted by several people and is good) or a stuck button .One cause of the stuck button at least in my house has been steam coming from the oven flowing over the touch pad this can get moisture in the touchpad shorting it out causing a button to stick giving an error message also making the oven unusable....what I did solved the problem I figured I was going to have to spring for a new touch pad so I peeled it off the front of the oven got under the edge with a knife and lifted it off (it is stuck on fairlly well but will lift off) once this is done i squeezed every button between my fingers and flexed the touchpad back and forth (flexed not bent) ..I noticed the edges are not sealed well allowing moisture between the mylar surfaces poor design! i replaced pad and sprayed edges with silicone spray soaked the front also around the window area figuring the silicone would get between the surfaces and help prevent this problem Ta Da oven all better too bad I didn't figure this out sooner but I hope this helps someone....GB BodhaineG@aol.com

Posted on May 08, 2010

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Frigidare FEFL79GSA burner stays on all the time even when you turn the knob to off,it still stays glowing on high.


you will need to replace the control for that burner, this is a very easy fix, locate the make, model and S/N for this unit order the correct control, turn off power or unplug unit , when you open up the unit where the control is watch what you are doing cause there are many wires here the way i do the wire change is to pull off one wire at a time putting the wire on the new control then when all wires are change over replace the switch

Oct 04, 2011 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

2 Answers

Getting error code F7


Microwave will not operate (cook). F7 error code appears on the display. Electrical circuit interruption between L1 and Neutral in the microwave inverter circuit.

Possible reasons:
1. Check door, hinge and cavity front alignment and adjust as needed.
2. Check the operation of all interlock switches.
3. Check over temperature protector for the magnatron.
4. Check all Cavity Thermostats for closed circuit.
5. Unplug the oven for at least 40 seconds. If this solves the problem
A. Check the Cooling Fan for proper operation or blockage
B. Check the resistance of the magnetron thermostat. It should be 0 Ohms, replace if necessary.
6. Check that the control cable to the 1100 watt inverter is properly connected to plug P2 on the display PCB & Adjust or Reconnect
7. If interlock switches operate correctly, replace 1100W inverter.
8. If problem persists, replace control assembly.

Additionally, check this article: oven-error-code-f7-and-how-to-fix-it

Hope this helps.

May 26, 2011 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

The screen says F7 and an alarm keeps beeping


One of the most common problems with GE electric built in ovens is the error code "F7′ shown on the display. I've seen it many times before and today I had a service call for the same problem again. The error code "F7" will be displayed along with a beeping sound if the ERC (Electronic Range Control) or "clock" senses one or more buttons on the control panel stuck. It could be displayed in any mode: "cook", "clean" or even more often in the "time of the day" mode. In order to fix it, the control panel has to be replaced. This is a very simple job and you will need just a 1/4′ nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver.
To get the right replacement part just click on the link AppliancePartsPros then type the model number of your oven (it is located at the bottom left corner on the door frame of the lower oven) in the search box, click on the "search" button and in the new window type the word "control panel" in the "search by keyword" box and click the "search" button.
Always turn off the circuit breaker first.
Open the oven door (if you have a double oven, it should be the upper one) and remove three screws (on some models just two on corners) from the bottom of the control panel. If the control panel on your oven is made of stainless steel, then you have to pull the oven out of the cabinet for about 2′ to 3′ to get better access. Pull the control panel forward and up to remove the tabs on the top of the frame, out of the holes in the end caps. Pull the control panel out and turn it about 90° toward yourself (the face of the control panel down). Unplug the control panel ribbon from the ERC. Remove four screws holding the ERC to the control panel. On some models you also have to remove the screw which attaches the ground wire to the control panel. Let the ERC hang on its wires, remove the old control panel and replace it with the new one. On some models before you do it, you have to remove the end caps and the bottom shield from the old control panel and install them on the new one. Do not forget to plug the new control panel ribbon into the ERS slot. Attach the new control panel to the oven and turn the circuit breaker on. Set the time of the day and you are back in business

Oct 25, 2010 | Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

I moved the latch for my jtp15 ge oven and now it won't open. What do i do to move the latch back over?


The latches on this model oven have a very high failure rate. Once the latch fails it is permanent. To open the door you have to access the control panel to reach the door look. To do this first turn the power to the oven off at the service panel by turning the breaker off.
  • Step 1 Remove the three screws from the control panel. The control panel is on the outside of the oven, above the door handle. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward you, then lift it up. This action will release the control panel cover's tabs.
  • Step 2 The mechanism that operates the door latch during the self-cleaning cycle will be behind a smooth, square plate held in place with two screws. White, black and red wires, as well as a grounding wire, will be protruding from the face of the plate. These wires will be twisted together with other control panel wiring and covered with electrical wire caps.
  • Step 3 Remove the failed part by removing the caps and untwisting the wires. Using an appropriate wrench, extract any screws holding the plate in place. The cylindrical-shaped mechanism will be attached to and behind this plate.
  • Step 4 Visit a store or contact GE at (800) 626-2224 to acquire a replacement part. To reassemble, slide the new mechanism into where the old one was and reattach the plate with the screws. Reconnect the wires by twisting them together and replacing the electrical wire caps.
  • Step 5 Replace the control panel by slipping the top of the panel into its groove and angling the panel downward, dropping the tabs back into the slots. Replace the three screws.
  • Aug 14, 2010 | GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven

    1 Answer

    Is it easy to replace the keypanel of the GE


    Hello, The simple answer is yes it's not too hard...Normally you have a couple of screw located underneath the control panel. In most mordern ovens today they just consist of 2 components, the EOC (Electronic oven control) and the touch pad which basically cosists of everything you see(the whole panel). If you are replacing the touchpad..remove screws holding old panel in...pull wire harness from control board (dont worry where they go because the will only fit in one place) remove tape from EOC and relocate the control board to the new touchpad panel...reattach wire harness and tape in the new touchpad panel and hook back on oven ..screws in and your good to go. if replacing the control board (EOC) drop touch pad panel from oven and pull wires install new control then reassemble..easy!. One thing i would check though before purchasing the part, check to see it is the touchpad and not the control board...Here is how to do it...shut breaker off...pull out control panel...remove ribbon for key pad from EOC the re install panel..go switch breaker back on. leave for 24 hours..if within the 24 hours the error messages come back it's the EOC that is bad, if the error messages do not come back then you can be sure it's the touchpad. I would check this before buying the part since they are expencive and offten non returnable. Good Luck!! If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Thanks for using Fixya!! Mike

    Jul 24, 2009 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

    1 Answer

    GE CONVECTION OVEN. WE GET DISPLAY MESSAGE F2


    Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

    Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

    Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

    TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

    Otherwise you'd look like this...
    6966093.jpg

    Ready? OK!

    All you need is;
    1.) Phillips screwdriver
    2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
    3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
    4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
    5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
    6.) Flashlight

    Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

    Now we're ready for surgery.

    Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
    Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

    Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

    Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

    You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

    OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

    Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

    Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

    All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

    Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

    Mar 17, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

    1 Answer

    GE JKP26G Electric Oven Doesn't Maintain Temperature


    Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

    Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

    Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

    TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED! Otherwise you'd look like this...
    bcdb604.jpg


    Ready? OK!

    All you need is;
    1.) Phillips screwdriver
    2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
    3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
    4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
    5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
    6.) Flashlight

    Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

    Now we're ready for surgery.

    Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
    Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

    Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

    Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

    You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

    OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

    Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

    Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

    All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

    Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

    Mar 14, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

    1 Answer

    Installing my oven


    you may not be able to dur this because the whit shoul be a neutral and the red and blk 22o and the copper is your grd. look at the old oven's data plate and see if it says 120/220 volts ok? you may have to get another wire to the ovens

    Dec 26, 2008 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

    1 Answer

    Where to connect third (yellow) wire to lower heating element


    A local appliance repairman solved the problem in ten minutes. Charged me $30.00. The two black wires fasten to one terminal, the yellow wire fastens to the other.
    I notice you have billed me for your service. Your ads advice if the problem cannot be solved by your technicians, there is no charge. Please credit my account.

    Nov 12, 2008 | GE JKS06BFBB Electric Single Oven

    1 Answer

    F7 trouble code


    One of the most common problems with GE electric built in ovens is the error code “F7′ shown on the display. I’ve seen it many times before and today I had a service call for the same problem again. The error code “F7” will be displayed along with a beeping sound if the ERC (Electronic Range Control) or “clock” senses one or more buttons on the control panel stuck. It could be displayed in any mode: “cook”, “clean” or even more often in the “time of the day” mode. In order to fix it, the control panel has to be replaced. This is a very simple job and you will need just a 1/4′ nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver.
    To get the right replacement part just click on the link AppliancePartsPros then type the model number of your oven (it is located at the bottom left corner on the door frame of the lower oven) in the search box, click on the “search” button and in the new window type the word ”control panel” in the “search by keyword” box and click the “search” button.
    Always turn off the circuit breaker first.
    Open the oven door (if you have a double oven, it should be the upper one) and remove three screws (on some models just two on corners) from the bottom of the control panel. If the control panel on your oven is made of stainless steel, then you have to pull the oven out of the cabinet for about 2′ to 3′ to get better access. Pull the control panel forward and up to remove the tabs on the top of the frame, out of the holes in the end caps. Pull the control panel out and turn it about 90° toward yourself (the face of the control panel down). Unplug the control panel ribbon from the ERC. Remove four screws holding the ERC to the control panel. On some models you also have to remove the screw which attaches the ground wire to the control panel. Let the ERC hang on its wires, remove the old control panel and replace it with the new one. On some models before you do it, you have to remove the end caps and the bottom shield from the old control panel and install them on the new one. Do not forget to plug the new control panel ribbon into the ERS slot. Attach the new control panel to the oven and turn the circuit breaker on. Set the time of the day and you are back in business

    Nov 10, 2008 | Thermador SC272T Electric Double Oven

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