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My Kenmore series 80 dryer was overheating and blowing the thermal fuse. I have replaced the fuse twice. I also replaced the heat fuse that sits next to it. I was going to replace the overheat fuse on the coil vent but it seemed to correct the problem. I just came home today and now the motor doesn't turn, yet the dryer coil heats.
If coils is heating are you sure motor isn't running or just the drum not turning ? if drum not turning suspect belt ..if motor not running but element still heating suspect element is contacting outer case ..with coil touching case 110 volts is present even without motor turning if timer is turned to heat position element will not heat to capacity but will get hot enough to eventually blow element fuse
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The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.
Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and
fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal
cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.
The humming noise is most likely coming from the timer motor and not from the drive motor. This characterizes a problem with a blown thermal fuse which is wired in series with the drive motor and located on the blower housing. Power to the motor is cut when the thermal fuse blows open and consequently the drive motor cannot run. No dryer function works when the drive motor cannot run.
Unplug the dryer or disconnect power then pry the lower access panel off with a flat-head screwdriver as shown.
Remove the screw from the lint duct bracket
and remove the bracket. Remove the two hex-head screws from the lint
duct and remove the duct to access the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat.
The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
Yes, but there are several thermal limiters, they should reset when the unit cools, so likely that is not what is happening.... Forcefully turn the breaker FULLY off, and then back on, and test again...
The thermal limiters are located along the air flow path, typically downstream of your burner, the purpose is to prevent overheating and fire. These limiters stop the HEATING element and not the drum motor...
bad heater box fuse,get the model number from inside the dryer door,and go to your local appliance parts store and give them the number and they will get you a thermal fuse kit,remove the back of dryer and you will see the heater box on the right side
I believe thermostat is the correct term instead of heat fuse that is next to the thermal fuse.
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