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Re: NEED TO FIND DEFLECTOR CIRCUT SCHEMATIC
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You have to remove the engine front cover (over timing chain) and remove the oil pan to get the oil pump in and out. You don't have to remove the heads, however.
Removal & Installation
4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L & 6.2L Engines
Fig. Exploded view of the oil pump mounting-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 6.2L engines
Fig. Oil pump disassembly-4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L and 6.2L engines
Remove or disconnect the following:
Do not allow dirt or debris to enter the oil pump assembly, cap ends as necessary.
The internal parts of the oil pump assembly are not serviced separately (excluding the spring). If the oil pump components are worn or damaged, replace the oil pump as an assembly. Do not attempt to repair the wire mesh portion of the pump and screen assembly.
Engine front cover Oil pan Oil pump screen bolt and nuts Oil pump screen with O-ring seal. O-ring seal from the pump screen. Discard the O-ring seal. Remaining crankshaft oil deflector nuts. Crankshaft oil deflector Oil pump bolts
Oil pump To install:
Inspect the oil pump and engine block oil gallery passages. These surfaces must be clear and free of debris or restrictions.
Align the splined surfaces of the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump drive gear and install the oil pump. Install the oil pump onto the crankshaft sprocket until the pump housing contacts the face of the engine block.
Install or connect the following:
Lubricate a NEW oil pump screen O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
Push the oil pump screen tube completely into the oil pump prior to tightening the bolt. Do not allow the bolt to pull the tube into the pump.
Oil pump bolts. Tighten the oil pump bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Crankshaft oil deflector
NEW O-ring seal onto the oil pump screen
Align the oil pump screen mounting brackets with the correct crankshaft bearing cap studs.
Install or connect the following:
Oil pump screen Oil pump screen bolt and the deflector nuts. Tighten the bolt to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm) and the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Oil pan Engine front cover
Very simple. The 6 inch or so pin that holds it on is retained by a clip on one end. To remove clip use a pair of pliers. If you work steadily and carefully you will be able to reuse this clip. After removing clip, pull the pin out. Old deflector and spring be removed now. To get the spring right you have to try it in position before installing it. Just remember that the spring is holding the deflector down so when you are done installing, when you pick up on the deflector there is pressure holding it down. Don't put the pin clip on until you verify the spring force is correct because getting that spring clip off is the Hardesty pay off the job.
Did you get them new? If so, there should be a schematic wiring diagram with them. You could also search the net. Google the model of your mirrors, and perhaps there will be site with the schematics. Normally, if it was me, I'd patch the parking lamp wire into the front marker lights, the tun signal wire right where it says, the turn signals, and the other is a ground which can be grounded to anywhere on the bare metal frame. Use your basic wiring skills. If you don't have any basic wiring skills, do some web research on it. You can solve this yourself, you just need some confidence and a little more knowledge.
If you have the new deflector already, go to your local auto parts store and get 8 - 10 plastic retainers. Pry the old ones open and pop them out. Put the new deflector in place and "pop" in the new retainers. Did mine in about 5 minutes. Don't get the retainers at the dealer. They are about 3 bucks a piece. At O'Reilley's they are 2 for a buck (I Think, It's been a while.) This is an easy fix that will really improve the looks, and resale value, of your CTS. Hope this helps.
Remove the door trim panel and detach the inner panel water deflector. With the glass in the down position, pull out the front portion of the glass run weatherstrip.
Fig. 1: Unfasten the attaching nuts from the mirror base studs, then remove the mirror
Remove the attaching bolts and screws from the front glass run channel lower retainer to filler, then rotate retainer rearward.
Remove the noise control patch to gain access to the screw at the belt, then remove the screw.
Remove the filler attaching screws at the top front of the window frame, then remove the mirror and filler from the door.
Remove the attaching nuts from the mirror base studs, then remove the mirror.
Be sure that the mirror gasket is aligned.
Replace the mirror and filler on the door. Install the filler attaching screws at the top front of the window frame. Attach the nuts to the mirror studs and tighten.
Install the screw at the belt, then insert the noise control patch.
Insert the retainer, then install the attaching bolts and screws to the front glass run channel lower retainer to filler.
Replace the front portion of the glass run weatherstrip, insert the inner panel water deflector, then reinstall the door trim panel.
Remove the mirror remote control escutcheons and door trim panel. Detach the inner panel water deflector and the electrical connector for the mirror.
NOTE: Right side remote mirror may require detaching part of the instrument panel.
With the glass in the down position, pull out the front portion of the glass run weatherstrip.
Remove the attaching bolts and screws from the front glass run channel lower retainer to filler and rotate retainer rearward.
Remove the noise control patch to gain access to the 0.3 in. (7mm) screw at the belt and remove the screw.
Remove the filler attaching screws at the top front of the window frame.
Remove the mirror base with mirror and electric connector from the door.
Remove the mirror to filler attaching nuts and remove the mirror and electric wire from filler.
To install, reverse Steps 1 through 6. Be sure electric wire is routed around front glass run channel retainer and installed to the clip. Tighten the nuts to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable, then reset the clock, radio and any other accessories if required.
Some screens have labels, so place them so the labels are upright and tward the front of the TV.
The outside screen is the lenticular screen. The black vertical lined side is outside. The fresnel screen has very fine circular lines in it. You can find them by feeling them. This goes against the lenticular back side of the screen. the fesnel has a flat side that is the back. It will be tward the mirror. If the mirror has two shiny sides, then it should be placed with the mirror side out. You can tell this by placing your finger tip on the mirror. If the finger nail meets a fingernail, then this is the mirrored side. Install this side tward the front.
Try to keep dust from between the screens. Check by looking through the screens before you put the in the frame. Then check them again after you put them in the frame.
Wear latex gloves to keep finger prints away.
Clean back of screen assembly and install the screen on the TV.