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Hi Sally, i wouldn't say its shot. These pumps have 2 major parts to them an electric motor, (which i believe is why its humming) and a pump head. What can happen is the electric motor is completely fine but the pump has worn out. You can buy replacement parts for the head, but depending on age and model info may be difficult. My question is are you sure you have a water source that it is picking up? good luck
Replace the gaskets on your motor. You are going to have to buy a gasket set in order to complete this. As long as you have not tried to start it, you will not have any other issues with your engine. But if you have tried to start the motor then you can possibly of hurt the valves or the piston. So if you did not try to start it then just rebuild the engine with the gasket kit, and everything will be fine after that
that rubbing noise is coming from either the rollers which are onthe bottom of the tub or the tensioner pulley. if you repair try to buy dryer rebuild kit as a kit its alot cheaper difference of paying 20-29 for the kit and 40-50 for seperate parts
Check to see if you have an electric fan on your radiator or a fan that is mounted to the engine and turns off the the pulley system. If you have an electric fan, when the car heats up at idle, turn you AC on and see if the electric fan comes on. If it does then you have a sensor bad. You have 2 sensors one tells the guage what to register and the other one tells the electric fan when to come on. If you have a fan mounted to the engine then the clutch part of the fan is probably bad. Yopu can buy this seperate and don't have to buy the whole assembly. Most of the v-8's have fans mounted to the motor and most of the v-6's have electric fans but I have seen some with electric fans only. Please let me know if this helped, I am curious to hear the outcome.
your engine is fuel injected the fuel system is clogged with bad gas. fuel is proven to only stay stable for 60 days. after that it begins to turn to varnish. I can lead you through the repair easily, but i do suggest you go to this website to get picture diagrams so you can see how the engine parts are lined up. www.mercruiserparts.com. upper right had corner of page click search with pictures. select product line. select column Mercury, force, mariner and other outboard select mercury mariner scroll down to V-150XR1 next page. verifiy the serial number then click on it. ok now you have a list of picture, discription and part numbers to view. TOOLS (1) A compression gauge (2) a spark gap tester.(3) A Clymer service manual for your engine. (you can purchase from your local dealer. I know all these are expensive but if your going to be a outboard owner you will always need them. TROUBLESHOOTING (1) check compression. I'm giving you a average numbers. Look at your Clymer manual for more specific numbers. all cylinders need to be over 100 lbs and equal each other within 5 lbs. If you have good compression (2) check spark. use a spark gap tester, all cylinders should jump a half inch gap.replace spark plugs, I know spark plugs probably don't look bad but this is a outboard. Fresh spark plugs means less resistance for the ignition system. The ignition system is week compared to automotive.(3) Replace all fuel filters. there may be one on the boat. there is a fuel filter under engine cover on the starbord side replace it. Test drive boat. I know it is time consuming but I am making sure you don't spend time and money when you dont need to. If problem is still there (4) the fuel filter you replaced under the engine cover follow the fuel line to the vapor seperator.(website fuel managment system breakdown reference numbers 21-25) (5)on the bottom of the seperator is a hose leading from the fuel seperator to the electric fuel pump. NOTE, what i want you to do is verify fuel is getting to the vapor seperator and to the electric fuel pump. because there is a needle and seat in the vapor seperator and a filter in the hose that stops up. NOTE the filter in the hose (reference number 48 on website)make sure you remove hose completely and check by blowing threw it(6)with hose removed use primmer bulb and force fuel into the engine. fuel should pour through fitting that the hose was connected to. If not we have more work to do. I'm hoping you filter is stopped up in the hose. IF THERE IS FUEL FLOWAND FILTER STOPPED UP put everything back together with new filter and test. if no improvement you have pressure test to follow in you clymer manuel. follow each step about fuel pressure test. you are testing the electric fuel pump a $600.00 unit. IF NO FUEL FLOW FROM FITTING and hose filter replaced( why put the old one back?) (7) You fuel vapor seperator needle and seat is stopped up. refer to websit pictures. reference numbers 23 and 24.(8) there is six screws to remove the top of the seperator. a o-ring that can be saved but i would suggest ordering a new one.WARNING float level is setting is critical be careful not to bend float or rod(9) Remove float and needle and clean seat thoughly with carb cleaner. use primer bulb and pump fuel. Does fuel flow? if yes replace needle and float and use primer bulb again. gently close needle by pushing on the float. you should be able to stop and start the fuel flow with the float and needle. if you have any worries order new parts.(10) after you have verified fuel flows and stops through needle and seat. look inside of seperator housing is there any sedement or varnish. IF CLEAN reasemble vapor seperator. IF DIRTY the vapor seperator also receive oil from oil pump at the bottom of the seperator look for hose and fitting. make sure oil fitting is clean if ANY DOUGHT ABOUT OIL DELIVERY REPLACE VAPOR SEPERATOR YOU CANNOT GET THE OIL VALVE SEPERATE IT COMES IN A KIT. ok I have taken you through the basics everything else is in the Clymer manual you need to purchase. good luck